Real Time Help - Brake Bleed

[willbt]

Brake bleed gurus, I need some real time help please.

I just finished installing stainless lines and refurbing my calipers. Had the calipers off the truck for about 2 hours while I cleaned up both rears and rebuilt them. I know have everything installed and am attempting to bleed the rears. I have pushed about 2 small gatorade bottles (this is an official measurement btw) of new fluid through the rear passenger and yet Im still getting bubbles out. Can I really have this much air in my lines?

Ive pumped the brakes 40 times with the key off. I turn the key to ON, Brake Booster runs for about 35 seconds. I then press the brake, shoot a bunch of brake fluid out the bleeder and into my gatorade bottle. I then let off the brake and I get this steady stream of bubbles you see in the video below.

Thoughts on what Im doing wrong?

 

[Robinson13]

Do you close the bleed nipple before letting off the brake pedal?
If you are using a vacuum type bleeder, I’ve seen air being drawn in past the threads on the nipple before.

 

[JohnVee]

I was once told to not pressurize (pump) too much because it can flow the brake fluid right past the air pockets. Seems very logical to my, admittedly, inferior mind.

Related to what @Robinson13 said - make sure you are only cracking the bleeders open slightly. Too much Lefty Loosey can easily let in air.

 

[Robinson13]

This is what I use, makes life super easy!


Motive Products 0090 Power Bleeder Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O6FZJFG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_i_FbhhBbJAJ99NV

Power Probe BA10 Small Adapter for Toyota https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004IQ96RK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_i_vchhBbQYYSKKF

 

[willbt]

Long day, but I got everything wrapped up. Thanks for the help guys. I am chalking it up to an 18 y/o bleeder, but also the fact that I may have actually had that much air in my lines. I let it sit with the key on ON for about 20 minutes and I came out and it was only just letting the smallest bubbles out. That bleeder had some rust on the top of the bleeder too when I pulled it out to rebuild the caliper.

I have a feeling air was getting past the threads just like both of you said. I am reasoning this by the fact that the bleeder was ever so slowly letting small bubbles go after I had closed the bleeder, making me think its letting a little air past.

Anyway, I drove it around the neighborhood and to the liquor store and it felt great. I'll be calling my local Toyota dealer to order some bleeders on Monday.

Thanks again for the help!

 

[JohnVee]

I drove it around the neighborhood and to the liquor store

I'll be calling my local Toyota dealer to order some bleeders on Monday.

Good, so you'll have some booze to ease the pain of opening the system 4 more times! Five, if the 100 has the LSPV that the 80 is cursed with.

 

[flintknapper]

This is what I use, makes life super easy!


Motive Products 0090 Power Bleeder Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O6FZJFG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_i_FbhhBbJAJ99NV

Power Probe BA10 Small Adapter for Toyota https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004IQ96RK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_i_vchhBbQYYSKKF

^^^^^ Yep, same set up for me. Have used the Motive unit for years. Long ago abandoned the second person pumping the brake pedal or God forbid...the 'MightyVac' tool.

I let the system gravity bleed a bit for awhile then hook up the Motive, pressurize and go each bleeder. Activate ABS and bleed one more time. Works great, especially on my 80 series.

 

[badlander]

Regarding pressure blenders, any chance the pressure could damage the reservoir or pop it out of the master cylinder?

 

[flintknapper]

Regarding pressure blenders, any chance the pressure could damage the reservoir or pop it out of the master cylinder?

You only apply 10-15 psi. of pressure. At that tier, no....you will not have any trouble and have MORE than enough pressure to push fluid through the system.

I'm sure if you could seal the reservoir off well enough to hold 30-40 psi pressure....you might risk some damage to old components.

Just follow the very simple instructions:

https://www.motiveproducts.com/pages/power-bleeder-instruction

 

[white_lx]

I let the system gravity bleed a bit for awhile then hook up the Motive, pressurize and go each bleeder. Activate ABS and bleed one more time. Works great, especially on my 80 series.

I'm getting ready to bleed my brakes using a DIY pressure bleeder. Do you activate the ABS with Techstream, or by driving?

Just wondering what proper procedure is using Techstream. Is it
1) Bleed,
2) Activate ABS using Techstream,
3) Re-bleed.

Or is the last step not required when using Techstream?

DIY Pressure bleeder (I'm using an unused -dry- plant sprayer to pressurize the reservoir):

 

[badlander]

Robinson13, I'm going to purchase the power probe reservoir cap and try this method. Is the connection fitting on the cap a standard air hose connector size or do I have to buy the crazy $31 female hose fitting from power probe to connect to it? Thanks.

 

[white_lx]

Robinson13, I'm going to purchase the power probe reservoir cap and try this method. Is the connection fitting on the cap a standard air hose connector size or do I have to buy the crazy $31 female hose fitting from power probe to connect to it? Thanks.

It looks like a T-style air fitting.

You could also use a piece of hose over that fitting with a hose clamp. The pressures are very low. If you are planning to hook it up to a compressor, be very careful not to blow up your reservoir. It would be nice to have a safety low pressure release in case your compressors' regulator diaphragm fails at the wrong time. That is why I use a $7 plant sprayer pump.

I'm still interested to find out more about the exact procedure to purge the ABS accumulator with Techstream after the regular pressure bleeding. Preferably a 1-person method. Everytime I get the SOH involved things become more complicated than they should be....
[edit] Ryan from Otramm answered this question in a YT live chat You can do a 1-person brake bleed using Techstream if you use a pressure bleeder at the same time.

 

[badlander]

Good idea with the hose and hose clamp white_lx. That thought didn't even occur to me. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[Robinson13]

I just used an air chuck, quick easy on and off, and an air tight connection.

 

[trdcorolla]

Planning on doing this soon. Is the procedure below okay? I'll be using the Motive and Power Probe listed above.

1. Pump the brakes 40 times with ignition OFF to empty the accumulator and fill reservoir with fluid.
2. Remove as much old brake fluid from the reservoir as you can (but leaving some on the bottom to prevent air pockets)
3. Fill brake fluid reservoir with new brake fluid.
4. Turn ignition on (but don't turn on the car) to fill the brake accumulator. (till the pump stops)
5. Pressurize the bleeder.
6. Bleed till new fluid comes and with no bubbles in this order: Right front, Left front, Right Rear, Left Rear (while making sure reservoir doesn't run low on brake fluid and there is pressure in the bleeder after each corner)
7. Activate ABS using Techstream (one time for each corner)
8. Re-bleed (redo step 5 and 6)
9. Done

And with this pressure bleeder, I can do this by myself and won't need need to pump the brake pedal or depress it during steps 6 and 7 correct?

Thanks!

 

[tjb]

Planning on doing this soon. Is the procedure below okay? I'll be using the Motive and Power Probe listed above.

Did you give that a go? Doing the same soon and wondering if that setup procedure worked.

 

[trdcorolla]

Did you give that a go? Doing the same soon and wondering if that setup procedure worked.

I didn't, ended up buying SLEE SS Brake Lines and I had a local shop install them and bleed the brakes. I'll do it myself in 2 years.

 

[BeachnCruiser]

I just replaced my rotors and calipers on the front. I did the "upgrade" with the 96' calipers and rotors on my 91 FJ80. I cannot get the brake system to pressurize. The brake fluid comes out with no bubbles in it. Do I need to bleed the back as well? It is the drum brake in the back.

 

[flintknapper]

I just replaced my rotors and calipers on the front. I did the "upgrade" with the 96' calipers and rotors on my 91 FJ80. I cannot get the brake system to pressurize. The brake fluid comes out with no bubbles in it. Do I need to bleed the back as well? It is the drum brake in the back.

Probably get more answers if posted in the 80 series tech.

 

[willoCo]

Yasss. I'm super happy to find an adapter for the LC res! I love my power bleeder.