Leaping Deer said:
Yup! I bought a pair.
real steel body parts (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter brian
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Yup! I bought a pair.
Wow that looks great! Is all that from Real Steel?
Well got this panel in today with some waves in it.. back in the previous owner days all was good but now I'm beginning to wonder, more so after the response I got on this matter from Realsteel....
That thing should have never left the warehouse. Where is the quality control
Well got this panel in today with some waves in it.. back in the previous owner days all was good but now I'm beginning to wonder, more so after the response I got on this matter from Realsteel....
Wow, what was the response from Real Steel?
At first they said a 15% restocking fee for returns.. after I pitched a bitch, full refund.. shipping is a gray area.. cost me 80$ to get it and now 50 to get it back... I still need one because I already cut the SOB out!! They can't get a replacement for 2 weeks...
will the replacement be any better I ask? Another gray area has arose...
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At first they said a 15% restocking fee for returns.. after I pitched a bitch, full refund.. shipping is a gray area.. cost me 80$ to get it and now 50 to get it back... I still need one because I already cut the SOB out!! They can't get a replacement for 2 weeks...
That sucks!! I have been down that road before with one of the early bronco vendors a few years back. I freaked out as well when they did the 15% restocking fee spiel. How the hell can they charge you a red cent when the itme came damaged. It's not like you are returning it because it doesn't go well with your wheel wells.
I just cut out my rear floor today and opted to use flat steel and do it myself. I bought a sheet of 4'x4' 16ga. for $27 at my steel yard. The bends and cut will probably run another $25-$30, but it's a hell of alot cheaper than the cost of one with ribs. Not a factory look, but I can live with it.
Hope you get it resolved ASAP.
What about steel parts for the fj60?
Corrosion is a big issue up north. Inner,outer wheel for 60s rot out. What would it take, to make some wheel wells? They do not have to be rounded, which is there original design. I am sure you can make some that follow the contour of the floor design, then make them arched, like that of a trailer fender.
Eventually, you may want to consider some day, a hydraulic press to stamp out parts.
Corrosion is a big issue up north. Inner,outer wheel for 60s rot out. What would it take, to make some wheel wells? They do not have to be rounded, which is there original design. I am sure you can make some that follow the contour of the floor design, then make them arched, like that of a trailer fender.
Eventually, you may want to consider some day, a hydraulic press to stamp out parts.
Generally speaking in my area 60s aren't worth the effort... most 60 owners are broke dicks and don't want to spend any money...
RS
Any ideas on what to do on this rear sill? the square end sections protrude into the door opening area
Any ideas on what to do on this rear sill? the square end sections protrude into the door opening area
Another shot from a different angle....
Looks like you'll have to cut a little more off of that section of the tub to get it to fit down level with the sill. The problem then will be you'll lose the lower lip distance you have to weld to the lower part of the sill. You can see it on the passanger side pic. I'm assuming you have a replacement 1/4 panel or a section of rear 1/4 for the driver's side?
Do you have the original piece you removed? If so measure it and compare it to the replacement panel. I don't think it's gonna be too bad to remedy. It looks like you're off about a 1/2"-3/4". It will take some time tweaking, but take it slow. Also make sure you install the body mounts and secure it to the frame to get an accurate visual of how it's going to be buttoned together.
. You can see it on the passanger side pic. I'm assuming you have a replacement 1/4 panel or a section of rear 1/4 for the driver's side? Do you have the original piece you removed? If so measure it and compare it to the replacement panel. I don't think it's gonna be too bad to remedy. It looks like you're off about a 1/2"-3/4". It will take some time tweaking, but take it slow. Also make sure you install the body mounts and secure it to the frame to get an accurate visual of how it's going to be buttoned together.
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Its becoming clearly evident that some people know nothing about the rear sill on a 40...
I'm assuming you're including yourself in that group of "some people" thus your post. I built this myself along with the welding table it's sitting on. Mine fits, and I would LOVE to have you elaborate why "some people" don't know about the rear sill.
You may have 4k posts, but I've burnt my fair share of welding wire in bodyshops.
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Was that sill also from Real Steel? Is it shorter then the stock one you cut out? I need to order a sill this week and planned on getting it from Real Steel....
You have a pm
Any ideas on what to do on this rear sill? the square end sections protrude into the door opening area
Come on Grant, knowing your history with cruisers and I admit you have installed more than a dozen sills in the past why are you posting on here like you don't have a clue whats wrong
