Re-Gear ? 1fz-fe sweet spot for MPG? (3 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I will need tires this summer so I have to fork over the money for tires either way.
aztony let me know how you like them.
I sold my civic and bought this guy almost strait up 97 civic with 180k for 93 cruiser with 129K. good deal eh
 
Last edited:
I will sale you my stock R&P out of my front. They have 155k on them in fine shape. I have no idea what they are worth. Just another option.

p.
 
You should do 5.29's. Then you won't have to do it again :grinpimp:
 
7,

Fuel burn data is generally only available for a machine in some steady state. Such as a boat/yacht/airplane or a stationary engine such as a generator. These machines all have a fairly linear and fixed relationship between speed and fuel burn because they don't have gears. So, knowing the fuel burn of a twin 350 inboard 30 foot Chris Craft Santana at each 500 rpm is useful for finding the sweet spot for best fuel economy.

However, a vehicle such as the 80 has an automatic transmission that changes gears in response to varying throttle settings and engine loads and rpms (and other factors) that make knowing the fuel burn at 2000 rpm, 2500 rpm useless. That's in turn because the engine could be doing 2500rpm while the vehicle is steady state cruising at 67mph, or while the vehicle is doing 12mph at wide open throttle. This information COULD be gathered, just that there would be so many data points it would not be a curve of points like the prior examples, but simply dots covering the entire scale of rpms/fuel burns with no pattern to use. So it's simply not done. The automotive equivalent is the EPA's fuel economy highway/city rating system which attempts to provide a standard reference for anticipated fuel burn per mile.

Yeah, if you have a whine then you've got a problem and I suspect it was two problems. I was hoping it was just the big chips the front diffs are known to spit out with the first oil change. One does sound like the VC (since you mention binding, though mismatched tires will do this) issue and two I suspect the front diff oil level got low since you mention your axle seals are toast. If so, the high pinion design means the gearset was starved for oil and trashed itself. You'll find it MUCH cheaper to purchase the entire diff gearset preassembled from Toyota. It's all setup and you just slap it in - the factory pros have done the gear setup. About 7 years ago it was about $750 and around that time the quotes I got for rebuilding (and having someone with unknown gear adjustment skills who's never done an 80) were running about $300 more. To me the choice between totally new and setup by a guy who's done hundreds vs a couple new gears and the rest old done by a random tech was a simple one. The suggestion to purchase a used 80 set are even better and again all you do is bolt it in with 1 banana skills.

PS - just read the link on the destroyed front diffy and I don't believe for a New York minute that was caused by the VC. That was caused by a lack of front diff oil in my opinion. A VC locking up would merely load up the front diff slightly on turns as you drove along and would not contribute any appreciable heat to a gearset bathed in oil. In other words, I could drive from here to Albuquerque in my 80 with my center differential fully locked up by the dash switch and expect nothing but slightly more tire wear and slightly less fuel economy.

DougM
 
Last edited:
There was actually a lot of black oil in the diff when I drained it weeks after purchase this winter. It could very easily be a chip but it was the with of a gear tooth about 1 inch and about 1/4 inch tall. Seemed large to me. The whine also could be a u-joint gone bad b.c of the vc? I will bring this stuff up with my guy, he has an 80 and has done a bunch of front end birfs and rebuilds. He is a master toyota tech durring the day and on the weekends works for outback offroad gear. Which is the local cruiser shop where the Hoosier Cruisers hang out and work on stuff.
Tires are all Michelins LTX and all the same tread depth.
 
Last edited:
Just did a quick back of the envelope number crunch and it would take 60,000 miles of driving to break even on regearing if it saved a whopping 10% of fuel. That assumes $1500 in parts plus 500 labor for front and rear diffs. After that you begin saving money. If it turns out to only save 5% of fuel then the breakeven is 120,000 miles and so on......

There won't be a fuel savings, but I'm just sayin' that even if there were it's not a good investment.

DougM
 
Leave it to Doug to do actual math :cheers:

I was guesstimating around 50k but there was no science involved. In reality one should expect no more than 10% improvement and that is being very generous, it will probably be more in the 4-6% range I would guess.

Better to just take it easy on the pedal and keep your RPM's down and that will save you just as much if not more than re-gearing.
 
Man, with all the time you guys have spent discussing gearing, you could have already re-geared!:)

Isn't it funny that a rig like the 80, which is as much a "is what it is" vehicle as you will ever find (the base features of the rig will always define it no matter what you do) attracts so many OCD people who are just convinced that they are going to figure out something new?

Hey 7, you need a Blackstone report. Hurry! :hillbilly:

I did 5.29's because I have done this before with a large inline six, and I know that as long as you aren't looking for a lot of headroom in top speed (and the OP is not) that the best overall performance will come from the lowest gearset.

With an automatic transmission, much of what you are doing with regearing is setting comfortable cruising speed/RPM at the top end and shifting your typical "dead spots" (speeds where RPM is too low and you are "between gears") between certain mph ranges. These engines rarely thrill with regears when you have a heavy vehicle - it's a tuning exercise (that is not the case offroad, where the gearing leverage in low range really shines).

I really like the lower gears (with 37's, my setup is still about 12% lower than stock, was closer to 17" with 35's) because the sweet spots tend to be well aligned to city/highway speeds typically driven (not cruising much over 70).

I will trade top speed headroom for gearing leverage any day of the week on a lifted rig with big tires, but that's me.

Essentially what I have done with going much lower is eliminated about half of the OD reduction, which is good, because on my rig OD is too highly geared for where I live. That also means my best fuel economy cruising at "normal" highway speeds tops at 70 mph and I lose 1-2 mpg by trying to cruise 70-80 mph.

At 65 mph, I regularly achieve ~13.5 (tuned Scanguage readout). Not bad for sticky 37's at high altitude on trips where virtually nothing is flat.
 
So would 4.88's and 35's for my flat land in the mid-west be a good combo since the TOP speed I will drive is 75 and more often at 60-65 when I DD and I only DD in crappy weather. I don't mind being the slow person I just don’t like the big rigs running me off the road on the way to the trails.
I think that should leave me at 2435 RPM @ 65 with 4.88 and 35's compaired to 2263RPM @65 with the 4.10's and 31's.
and 2,809RPM @ 75 with 4.88 and 35's is that too high of an RPM to run at for an extended period of time compaired to 2611 @75 with stock 4.10 and 31's

So that would be 7% lower than stock? Is that right, I'm not sure how to figure that out.

I'm just trying to learn here, never messed with gears before and want the rig to be best suited for what I do, and this spare time to figure it out is free and messing up with the a choice in gears isn't free.
 
Last edited:
Yes
I was on 4.10 stock, 4.10 Nitto 295, 4.88 Nitto 295 and now 4.88 MTR 35 and it is my DD.
The balance has shifted from DD/Off-Road to Off-Road/DD. But I have short commute.
 
A friend here wants to o/r with 37's...

He has an OME that's 4" or over... I don't know exactly what it is.

What I'm talking him into is running 5:29's and two sets of tires. One smooth 35" radial and one set of 37's, whatever he wants.

For DD he'll run the 35's. 35's and 5:29's should make it REAL drivable and much more tolerable.

Before a run, he'll just change the rims out that will have the 37's mounted to it... he'll have to endure them for the ride to the trail, the trail, and home... waaa
 
Last edited:
... Before a run, he'll just change the rims out that will have the 37's mounted to it... he'll have to endure them for the ride to the trail, the trail, and home... waaa
Why would you allow him to run 37's at all, that sounds really painful? :rolleyes: How painful was it with your 37's on your '80?
 
Why would you allow him to run 37's at all, that sounds really painful? :rolleyes: How painful was it with your 37's on your '80?


1: He doesn't need it. (Shocker, there's a term you guy$ don't hear often)

And 2: b/c I believe we talked about it and he wants a Super Swamper or some real aggressive tire... A bias-ply tire all the time? THAT sounds painful. And I feel a blow out with 37's is just more dangerous than 35's... And he has a family... I will try my best to beat it out of him to ever think about putting them in it... But you know how that goes. Sometimes you have to do what you have to do.

And 3: He tows a (big) trailer a few times a year. Running a smooth tire will make the Cruiser 1: more of a joy to daily drive (b/c it's a little over geared) and 2, make it pull really really good, when it's called to do so...



I do get your point though...

Should he run a factory E locker with 37's too?
 
Last edited:
Looking for some more opinions on 5.29's and 35's

My opinion, that is to much gear for what you want. 4.88's will be better for your described application.
 
1: He doesn't need it. (Shocker, there's a term you guy$ don't hear often) …

Why do you care so much what others choose to run on their rigs? There is no "need" it's a choice, the USA has nice paved roads that go where just about everyone "needs" to go. Some "choose" to go places where the roads are more challenging and "choose" to modify their rigs for those adventures.

This argument could be carried further; the US has good roads, so there is no “need” for heavy-duty rigs like Landcruisers. If what others run bothers you, you could run for government office, then you could mandate what and where others drive. My guess is you will have plenty of support, there appears to be a big group who also have this goal.

Should he run a factory E locker with 37's too?

IMHO, that would be up to him. What is your experience with 37’s and factory lockers?
 
Still wondering why im stock and have better MPg than everybody!!!!!!:clap:
17-18 hwy at least 350 mile range with one tank
 
That comment was directed at 7schulz, not you. Not Mud. Wanna explain why I have to explain a damn thing to you?

And why I must not know a damn thing b/c you wanna make a point I don't own a gas hog 80 series?

So you wanna go on record as saying a factory E locker will survive with 37's and 5:29's?

I'm all ears...


IMHO, that would be up to him.

How dare he not have as much off road experience as you! How much off road experience does he have? Enough to know what locker he needs? Or should you tell him? How much experience do you have? How many E locker 80's on 37's have you had?

Cheap thing, gears. Easy trail fix when the diff breaks... Just call a Chinook, right?

Gotta pay to play ya know...
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom