Re-Gear ? 1fz-fe sweet spot for MPG?

[Hilux]

IMHO, that would be up to him. What is your experience with 37’s and factory lockers?

What's anybody's?

Why don't you link me all the threads of lead footers with 37's E lockers and 5:29's.

I'm sure there must be some... I don't own a 80, remember?

I must be full of it... I don't own a 80 with 37's.

I can't wait to see all these threads...

E lockers rated at 37's, check.

 

[jasonmt]

What's anybody's?

Why don't you link me all the threads of lead footers with 37's E lockers and 5:29's.

I'm sure there must be some... I don't own a 80, remember?

I must be full of it... I don't own a 80 with 37's.

I can't wait to see all these threads...

E lockers rated at 37's, check. Worked for this guy: Expensive day wheeling...

As someone who actually owns a 80 series with both 37" tyres and factory e-lockers (and a mini truck with factory e-lockers and 39.5's) lets make this short and sweet:

You are an idiot.


Not to mention you lack reading comprehension, from the thread you linked to:

Skronked both rockers, and worst of all I lost my glasses!

Still fun though. I need to get sliders before it's too late.

 

[Hilux]

damn I'm getting my money back from those speed reading classes...

 

[Tools R Us]

That comment was directed at 7schulz, not you. Not Mud. Wanna explain why I have to explain a damn thing to you?

And why I must not know a damn thing b/c you wanna make a point I don't own a gas hog 80 series? ...

I see no reason why you would want to explain anything to me or why you would want to post on a forum dedicated to a type of rig that you don’t own or even like? This is a tech forum, not chat, so IMHO, most come here looking for info and hope to get it from posters who have personal experience with the rig/mods in question. Regurgitating old forum info has little value; the poster can simply search to find it.

"Knowledge without experience is just information"--Mark Twain

So you wanna go on record as saying a factory E locker will survive with 37's and 5:29's?

I'm all ears... ...

Nope, I will only testify to my personal experience. I have had zero E-locker related breakage issues, but have only run 37’s for ~4yrs and ~2000 TRAIL miles topping at 4+ of a 5 rating. My extended experience is with several local rigs with big tires (a couple also run 37’s) and wheel them, zero have had E-locker axle related breakage. In my personal experience they will take a pretty good amount of abuse. The weakness appears to be related to wheel spin and the sudden stop when regaining traction, most often seen in slop wheeling, we mainly wheel on high traction surfaces where it hasn’t proven to be a problem for any of us, yet.

I have had the diff type in question apart, have talked to some who have broken and/or repaired the axles, so have a pretty good idea of the risk. But I wouldn’t tell someone else how to setup their rig that is up to their need/want/budget to decide. What personal experience do you have with this or is it that you just enjoy rehashing something that you heard?

Gotta pay to play ya know...

Over the years, I have broken enough stuff to be painfully aware! Also very aware that the axle problem may bite me, but in the mean time have had lots of good times wheeling the rig and don’t see fixing a “problem” that hasn’t proven to be an issue for the type of wheeling that I do?

My off-road driving started in the '70's in a VW Baja and have "wheeled" many types of rigs. The biggest lesson learned is that anything can be broken, ALL rigs have weaknesses and most have strengths. If the driver operates the rig to it's strength and uses care in it's weakness, most all rigs can be fun with minimal problems. IMHO the 80 series has many more strengths than weakness.

 

[Hilux]

I see no reason why you would want to explain anything to me or why you would want to post on a forum dedicated to a type of rig that you don’t own or even like? This is a tech forum, not chat, so IMHO, most come here looking for info and hope to get it from posters who have personal experience with the rig/mods in question. Regurgitating old forum info has little value; the poster can simply search to find it.

"Knowledge without experience is just information"--Mark Twain

I don't own a Fj80 b/c I couldnt afford to feed the thing. The Fj80 is the best damn 4WD ever mass-produced if you ask me, and I've said it here a hundred times so IDK where this "that you don't even like" stuff is coming from.


Who regurgitated what? I tailored out a build plan for a guy (that's right, a plan), and simply told the guy that posted this thread about it.

Big huge deal. Two sets of tires... One set of gears... Basically two different animals... But that's not OK with you... We're still talking about a engine, frame, a body and some axles here, right?

So what? I wouldn't own one. Doesnt mean a damn thing on whether I can or cannot build a truck.


May not be custom made to suit you. May not be for Mud. But it will work for the guy that owns the 80... Consequently the guy that I KNOW, and know how he wants the truck built.

If you think the plan is wrong, you tell him?

Is it ok if he runs a rear Aussie or not? What if he doesnt do his gears 1st? And after gears, what if he doesn't need a front locker? Should he still get one? B/c those are all things I've told him...

 

[Brunt Force Trauma]

So I am a bit confused. You guys are talking about cruising speeds of 60-80mph and your RPM's staying in the 2-2.5k range. My rpm's rarely are below 3k on the interstate and a lot of times closer to 4k. Is something wrong with my truck? I knew it was high, but just thought it was normal for these rigs. I am in SoCal so 70 is normal, 60 is slow. I usually am around 75.

 

[plutonius]

At 80mph cruising I am just below 3k rpm on the Scangauge, and I'm slightly overgeared. Are you on stock gears, and is your overdrive engaging?

 

[alia176]

So I am a bit confused. You guys are talking about cruising speeds of 60-80mph and your RPM's staying in the 2-2.5k range. My rpm's rarely are below 3k on the interstate and a lot of times closer to 4k. Is something wrong with my truck? I knew it was high, but just thought it was normal for these rigs. I am in SoCal so 70 is normal, 60 is slow. I usually am around 75.

My guess is that your OD is not engaging. Assuming of course you're running 4.10s R&P ratio. I normally stay around 2600 rpms on the typical hwy speeds.

 

[7schulz]

4x4 related Calculators, Crawl Ratio, Gears Tires Sizes, etc..
Your rig should be
MPH: 70
Axle Ratio: 4.10
Transmission Ratio: .765
Transfer Case Ratio: 1
Tire Diameter: 33
RPM 2235
Play with the numbers until you figure out what gears you have.

Edit: Or as alia said hit your OD button to see if it works. Maybe your light is burnt out and you are driving around with OD off

 

[woodsman 44]

Looking for some more opinions on 5.29's and 35's

My vote is for the 4.56's with 35's if your not going to rock crawl.

If you are sticking with 33's, stock gears are what you want.

 

[Brunt Force Trauma]

I dont have an OD button that I am aware of? Would driving with the ECT "power" button on automatically disable the OD?
I have only driven the truck a few days since I bought it. I was under the hood the whole time before that. Now its throwing codes for the O2 sensors so its parked again until I can address them.

... and yes I am on stock gears.

 

[gahi]

od button is on the side if the shifter, right where your thumb sits when you grab it.

 

[7schulz]

If you are going 35's I went 4.88, everyone told me 4.56 is a waste of money.

 

[Brunt Force Trauma]

If I do 315/35's I will eventually go with 4.88's. SO I found the OD button. I pressed it a few times and no light came on so I am assuming its burned out. I am assuming that when the button is pressed in, the OD is on, and when it is out the OD is off... is that correct? I think its been of for a couple days. Could that be why I am throwing code for bad 02 sensors? I probably fried them running the engine so hot huh.


It looks like I have a few dash lights burned out. When I turn the ignition ALL the light should come on for a few seconds, correct? Anyone have a picture of what it looks like when all the lights are illuminated so I can see which ones I am missing.

 

[TJ96TLC]

I run 285 BFG AT's and Stock gears, no lift, Power button on all the time and average 15 mpg on a 20 mile one way interstate commute with 5 minutes of stop and go at the end. The Power button actually raised it from 14.5. Thats on regular gas. The hills in Birmingham are small but seem to make a difference. I got 16.5 mpg on the way to Destin, Fl. Thats 75 mph on the interstate and avg of 50 mph on the back roads.

 

[alia176]

If I do 315/35's I will eventually go with 4.88's. SO I found the OD button. I pressed it a few times and no light came on so I am assuming its burned out. I am assuming that when the button is pressed in, the OD is on, and when it is out the OD is off... is that correct? I think its been of for a couple days. Could that be why I am throwing code for bad 02 sensors? I probably fried them running the engine so hot huh.


It looks like I have a few dash lights burned out. When I turn the ignition ALL the light should come on for a few seconds, correct? Anyone have a picture of what it looks like when all the lights are illuminated so I can see which ones I am missing.

Your logic is correct regarding the OD button. OD OFF icon sits right below the "L" icon.

However, your O2 sensors are NOT fried due to the engine running higher rpms!

T

 

[Brunt Force Trauma]

Your logic is correct regarding the OD button. OD OFF icon sits right below the "L" icon.

However, your O2 sensors are NOT fried due to the engine running higher rpms!

T

Ok. I am still a bit new to all these sensors and such. I have never owned a truck newer than 1981. I thought maybe the heat from running the engine too hard would bake them, but (after doing some reading) I see why that wouldnt be the case. I guess its just coincidence that the CEL came on when I was driving with the OD off. I am going to remove the O2 sensors and clean them with some electronics cleaner, then making sure the wires are all nice and tight and see if that fixed the code. If not I guess Ill have to spring for new sensors.

 

[Ebag333]

Make sure the electronics cleaner is O2 sensor safe. Not all are.

If you have 150k miles (or more), they probably need to be replaced. That's when mine started throwing codes on both rigs.

 

[Brunt Force Trauma]

Make sure the electronics cleaner is O2 sensor safe. Not all are.

If you have 150k miles (or more), they probably need to be replaced. That's when mine started throwing codes on both rigs.

Shoot. I am almost at the 200k mark. Guess Ill go ahead and order new ones.

 

[alia176]

Yup, it's a good idea to replace the sensors. Not only do they affect your fuel economy, but your emissions will improve too. I bought mine from the 'net some place for a very good price. They even came with the right connectors and such.

Good luck.