Raised shock mounts

[Kevin8086]

Does anyone make front raised lower shock mounts or front lowered upper shock mounts to get all the travel from the shocks after adding front bump stop extensions.

Same question for the rear. Anyone make rear lowered upper shock mounts.

 

[chap79]

The problem with the rear is generally up travel, not down. So cutting the upper mount to space a long travel through it is necessary. For the front it really depends on tryout springs and trying to maximize an appropriate balance to fit your needs. Typically the hangs up still resides in the front control arm mounts. So unless you change to a 3 link plus pan hard you will bind on the radius arms.

 

[chap79]

I am not a suspension geometry expert nor did I stay at a holiday inn express last night

 

[Mr.Bryan]

I'm building some rear upper shock mounts now to address that problem and get about an inch more uptravel. Here's where they're at currently.

Designed to for an eye instead of a stud so there's more shock options. Busy next few days but it should be done in a week when I can get back to them.

View attachment 1493260162504-1091478336.jpg

 

[Kevin8086]

I'm actually looking for more down travel. I have 37s and 3" bumper stops in the rear. I springs and L shocks. The rear seems to be fine but figured if I have 3" bump stop I'm losing out some on down travel. Fronts I'm running j springs and 30mm packers with 2" of bump stop extensions wit L shocks. Seems like I need to either raise or lower the front shock mount to gain down travelsince I took 2" up travel away with the 2" extensions. I'm also swapping to a 2" metal tech spring spacers here shortly so it'll had an additional 2" over j springs. Am I thinking about this all right?

 

[Kevin8086]

Up travel and down travel

 

[Kevin8086]

what happends to my front travel when I add the 2" metal tech spring sopacers?

 

[chap79]

But think about how the stock front suspension geometry works. The spring will push the control arm down until the suspension components bind and stop further downward articulation. You might be able to force an extra inch of two by moving the shock downward and removing the seat bar. But the front control arms will continue to turn and pull the perches away from alignment.

 

[chap79]

what happends to my front travel when I add the 2" metal tech spring sopacers?

You increase your up travel and decrease your down travel.

 

[Tapage]

I'm running a simple shock " spacer " for front with the fox long version .. and I feel ( butt measurements ) they are still short ..

 

[chap79]

Also with Js and a 2" spacer you will have to correct your panhards rod geometry. At that point you are pulling them out of parallel. Adjustable panhards just put the axle back centered under the chassis but do not correct steering or vehicle roll center.

 

[Kevin8086]

You increase your up travel and decrease your down travel.

So what do I do to get that down travel back?

 

[Kevin8086]

Also with Js and a 2" spacer you will have to correct your panhards rod geometry. At that point you are pulling them out of parallel. Adjustable panhards just put the axle back centered under the chassis but do not correct steering or vehicle roll center.

I have adjustable panhard a but might need to relocate them

 

[chap79]

Whip out the tape measure and start taking measurements. It's normal and part of most of the venders "design" to have a bias towards up travel with the 80s stock suspension.

Cut the radius arm umbilical chord and down travel will find you.

 

[chap79]

Again, I don't know anything and am completely taking out my a$$. There are other in this community that may know better.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

The best way to set up for maximum travel is to put your 80 on a lift and remove the springs and start cycling.

 

[GW Nugget]

I'm enjoying your eagerness to learn & to make things work. Kind of fun...

Since the front L shock is made for your 850J it would be easy to say you can lower the L shock down 2" also. I have been a measuring fool for a few years now & I can say that it would be even safe to add another .5" to that. 2.5"x2" square tube mounted to the axle will work. The shocks I currently have are 2" longer than L shocks & my front flexes that far down just fine. Since you are lowering the coil down the shock will work together just as they would without the MT spacer. Also add .5" to the bump stop rubber to make it a total 2.5" of added bump space. I know a few guys running 2.5" bump pucks up front with uncut fender & 37"s...

 

[Kevin8086]

I'm enjoying your eagerness to learn & to make things work. Kind of fun...

Since the front L shock is made for your 850J it would be easy to say you can lower the L shock down 2" also. I have been a measuring fool for a few years now & I can say that it would be even safe to add another .5" to that. 2.5"x2" square tube mounted to the axle will work. The shocks I currently have are 2" longer than L shocks & my front flexes that far down just fine. Since you are lowering the coil down the shock will work together just as they would without the MT spacer. Also add .5" to the bump stop rubber to make it a total 2.5" of added bump space. I know a few guys running 2.5" bump pucks up front with uncut fender & 37"s...

View attachment 1449059

View attachment 1449060

Thanks!! I am very new to all this as of like 6 months ago and have been reading and learning a lot. I'm having fun with it for sure.
This is exactly what I was thinking. Was going to start with the 2" bump stops and a 2" block for the shock but have not measure anything yet. The 2.5 and 2.5 is probably better. I'll add .5" to the bump stops when I get back in there to do the shock mount.
I've been reading about the hitch pin mod but that seems to make everything hit and bind if I'm not mistaken. There's just only so much room to cycle the front of an 80 before you have to change the steering set up.

Any drop block available for the rear shocks? I have 3" bump stops out back but maybe want to come down an inch or 2

 

[Kevin8086]

Also with Js and a 2" spacer you will have to correct your panhards rod geometry. At that point you are pulling them out of parallel. Adjustable panhards just put the axle back centered under the chassis but do not correct steering or vehicle roll center.

So is this just the front panhard? The rear I have no extra lift over the J. The front I will have the 2" MT spacers. I'm doing all this as to try and not cut up the truck if possible. How much will I need to lower the panhard rod? Just the 2" that I'm adding to the j springs?
I only have an adjustable rear rod now. Was thinking about doing the same Diy kit for the front if it works the same way.

 

[chap79]

I honestly wouldn't worry too much about the front panhards location with your current setup unless this truck will be a dedicated trail rig. Then you could look at hi-steer kits, drop pitman arm, changing axle mount height.

Over 95% of the 80s on this site running 4-6" lifts just use the adjustable bar and call it a day. Myself included.