Radiators (1 Viewer)

[Jman]

It's summer, and once again my temp gauge is going up. I thought it was the "spiking gauges" thing, but that's fixed. I'm beginning to think my rad ain't working too good.

Here's a typical incident: I run an errand, driving twenty minutes at about 40 mph, things are fine. I park, run errand, drive back, it begins to hit the red. I put the heater on full blast, guage goes back to 1/2-2/3 and stays there. I get very sweaty.

So, I'm pretty sure my radiator isn't cooling like it should. It's probably three or four years old (p.o. put it in slightly before I bought the truck). Fan clutch seems to work okay.

Where do I start?

 

[swank60]

I'd flush the system first. Maybe even take it in and have it power/back flushed. If it's not cooling right and it doesn't matter what speed you're doing, it's usually a dirty radiator. You wash it out good after your three day weekend of fun?

Also, check for pinched hoses. That can cause a backup. But the symptoms of that are hot running at speed, cool down at idle. At least that's how I understand it.

You might also want to put a little anti freeze and water in it... Maybe that's the best place to start...with the obvious.

 

[HZJ60 Guy]

With the Canadian exchange you might check and see what you can get a new one for. I got a new 1HZ rad for a pretty good price a while ago.



TB

 

[Jman]

Yeah, I cleaned all the mud out.

I don't think it's the hoses--it happens more on the highway near 3000 rpms, but this recent one was at 2000 rpm.

Fluid level is great--rad is always full, not getting much level fluctuation in the overflow tank. The few times I've topped it off, I've used just distilled water because of the better cooling factor.

I'll take it in for a power flush, maybe some new hoses while I'm at it (it's been a while and I can use the olds for spares).

 

[Jman]

[quote author=HZJ60_Guy link=board=29;threadid=17705;start=msg171392#msg171392 date=1086725064]
With the Canadian exchange you might check and see what you can get a new one for. I got a new 1HZ rad for a pretty good price a while ago.



TB
[/quote]

Canadian exchange? What's that? Two beaver for a moose?

 

[HZJ60 Guy]

Wow, that's really bad. Better watch it, we've got quite a few Canucks on this here board!!!

The exchange is getting better.



TB

 

[Jman]

Hey, while I'm at it, I still have a thin film of mud/clay ALL OVER my engine bay--battery, alt, oil filter, electronics, wires, basically the entire front end and much of the passenger side.

What's the best way to clean this off? Gentle garden hose spraying?

 

[Jman]

[quote author=HZJ60_Guy link=board=29;threadid=17705;start=msg171400#msg171400 date=1086725487]
Wow, that's really bad. Better watch it, we've got quite a few Canucks on this here board!!!

The exchange is getting better.



TB
[/quote]

Hey, I wanted to see the Flames win!!!!

Anyway, I guess my real question is, what does exchange rate have to do with radiator pricing? I live in NJ. Are all radiators made in Sudbury or something?

 

[swank60]

Whenever I clean the engine bay, I like to use some sort of solvent - usually go for one of those water based degreasers, then take it up to the carwash and spray it good and hard - everything but the dizzy...unless you want to walk home.

Sounds like you're running hot because of a dirty system. You could try one of those at-home flush kits...hell, flush it out in your gutter - you live in Jersey - doubt anyone would notice.

 

[Jman]

[quote author=swank60 link=board=29;threadid=17705;start=msg171408#msg171408 date=1086726064]
Sounds like you're running hot because of a dirty system. You could try one of those at-home flush kits...hell, flush it out in your gutter - you live in Jersey - doubt anyone would notice.
[/quote]

Sorry, Homey don't play dat! Besides, that's a big ticket offense here in the city, I believe.

Well, haven't done a de-greaser yet (I kind of like the corrosion protection of all that grease and oil), but would Simple Green do it?

 

[60wag]

Back to the overheat issue... your lower rad hose may be collapsing at higher rpms. I would think a partially clogged rad would make it worse. Some lower hoses have a spring inside, some have really stiff walls - might be worth a try.

 

[jhstatts]

[quote author=Jman link=board=29;threadid=17705;start=msg171419#msg171419 date=1086726692]
Sorry, Homey don't play dat! Besides, that's a big ticket offense here in the city, I believe.

Well, haven't done a de-greaser yet (I kind of like the corrosion protection of all that grease and oil), but would Simple Green do it?
[/quote]

I just picked up some Orange Degreaser (nice smell). I can't remember the brand right now, but I will post it later. I think I found it at Wal-Mart for less than $5.

 

[Ming89FJ62]

Jman,

While you're at it you might as well replace the thermostat. Just a thought.

Ming

 

[swank60]

60wag is right on that lower hose. It's been a problem on mine, too...but then again, so has EVERYTHING...

On the thermostat, I'd check it before flat out changing it. That bad boy will cost you nearly $40. It's crazy.

I've got the orange stuff from Wallymart. It works okay, just not on the heavy stuff - that's where you need the pressure. If it's heavy build up, go for a cheap can of engine degreaser and hose it down. A good idea for that is to take a few cans of that, your ramps and your truck to the pressure washer/car wash and soak that mother. You could check the condition of that hose while there, too Simple Green may do pretty well, too.

Thing is, if your engine bay is too dirty, it could contribute to your heating issues, as well (just a little).

You know how it is with a 60 - it's never one thing that's wrong, it's 20 different small things that all add up.

 

[swank60]

Oh, forgot to mention - if you get the engine bay too wet, you can always knock a hole in your engine/oil pan/fender wells/fire wall/whateve with a screwdriver and a BFH.

 

[jwest]

Careful with the Simple Green, I read somewhere that it has promoted rust.

Since I installed a new radiator, t-stat, hoses, and belts, my temps are pegged at 1/3 and rarely get to 1/2. 8)

Along with the other suggestions, clean out the a/c condenser in front the rad.
Dirt and bugs will reduce air flow. And easy on the water pressure, you don't want to bend any fins.

 

[dogboy]

Well, haven't done a de-greaser yet (I kind of like the corrosion protection of all that grease and oil), but would Simple Green do it?

Heads up on the Simple Green: it contains a meta-silicate (think desiccant, like the little packages that ship with electronics) that by it's structural nature, attracts and binds H2O molecules to itself. When applied to joints or mated surfaces, the residual residue left behind after rinsing starts to draw moisture to itself. Being crystaline in structure, the molecule grows as more H2O molecules are attracted to it (remember those crazy salt sculptures from childhood?) that in turn, starts to expand in the joint or seam. Over time it basically can push pieces apart in addition to accelerating corrosion. The U.S. Army has done extensive testing on Simple Green and other degreasers for their maintainence program and found that equipment treated with the Green corroded and failed at a far greater rate than those treated with other products.

Having witnessed the Simple Green corrosion phenomenon firsthand on my undercarraige, in my experience, I'd say that there is something true to these findings. Although a fan of the product, it no longer has a place around my machines, tools, or equipment but still kicks heine in bathroom cleaning duties

-dogboy- '87 FJ60

 

[Jman]

Screw it, I'm leaving it greasy!

 

[timbercruiser]

If it is the rad, you might try a simple rad flush with muriatic acid. Take off the hoses, plug the holes (or take it our and lay it on the ground), fill with acid, wait 10 minutes, drain, rinse profusely, put hoses back on. It worked on my '40.

 

[cruiser_guy]

I would not change out good hoses if they are not leaking. An old hose will not cause overheating. I would spray the rad/AC condensor out running the water from the engine side out to the grille to push the crud out the way it came in (rather than further into the rad/AC condensor). Use an engine degreaser (over a concrete surface please) and clean off the engine if it is heavily caked with grease. See where that leaves you and then start with the low budget things like thermostats.
I never had problems with my '82 BJ60 and was running the original rad until last year when I changed to a four core along with the A/C install. Before someone gets cute with me being in "The Great White North", the 20 year old 3 core rad was in the truck during our trip through Mexico in 2002 and it did not cause ANY problems.
When I pulled the rad there was at least 3-4" of core without fins at the bottom (but NO leaks)!