Radiator options (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 26, 2017
Threads
24
Messages
133
Location
Albuquerque, NM
So the CSF radiator in my rig developed a hairline crack on the lower plastic. I have no idea how, I know it was not hit by anything and I have not overheated it, blah blah blah. In any case, it has to be replaced. I am a cheap bastard and dont wanna pay OEM prices, but I trail it so I dont want the cheapo amazon $118 radiator to fail on me so I need something in between those prices. Obviously I am not going with CSF anymore. Who would you guys recommend? I would prefer to spend no more than $250 bucks.
 
CSF 2517 (all metal) in my 97. No problems.
 
Here is what I run. Free Shipping. RADIATOR 1917

Lifetime warranty supposedly and I am sure I will get to test that one of these days. Have one on its third year right now and a second about 6 mos old. Nice thing is, there are lots of cities with locations that have these so if there is an issue you can walk in and see some one. In my first case of needing a radiator, they had it in stock in Denver and I could pick it up same day.
 
TYC 1918 on Amazon/Ebay has performed well for several seasons here in the Sonoran Desert for several of the local guys. No problems or failures yet.
 
Here is what I run. Free Shipping. RADIATOR 1917

Lifetime warranty supposedly and I am sure I will get to test that one of these days. Have one on its third year right now and a second about 6 mos old. Nice thing is, there are lots of cities with locations that have these so if there is an issue you can walk in and see some one. In my first case of needing a radiator, they had it in stock in Denver and I could pick it up same day.

I have a Performance Radiator shop here in Albuquerque as well. The only thing that made me a little weary is it only being one row. The CSF is 3 row. I have a feeling that with only one row, that fan clutch will work for more often and that will be the next thing to go.
 
I have a Performance Radiator shop here in Albuquerque as well. The only thing that made me a little weary is it only being one row. The CSF is 3 row. I have a feeling that with only one row, that fan clutch will work for more often and that will be the next thing to go.
The one I have is not single row, I am pretty sure it is three, but I will check and post back. Maybe they have the spec wrong on the site....I'll check.
 
I am in the market for a new radiator too. I saw a Denso for $159 anyone have experience with that one?

Recently installed one, not impressed, like at all, the fins and all metal was very thin. IMHO there are better choices, any of them are likely to be better.
 
... being one row. The CSF is 3 row. ...

With the varying construction, a better indicator is core thickness. If core thickness is the same, one with less cores will be the most efficient, cool the best. Newer design, aluminum, allows for wider/deeper core tubes, so more of the tube area has fin contact. Also allows for tighter fin and tube spacing. So a 1" single core can be more efficient, have more cooling capacity than a 1-1/4" 3 core. The aluminum designs also often have significantly lower air restriction, so need less fan to do the same job.

Up to recently I was one who would always recommend copper, all metal, not any more. Newer antifreeze formulas are biased to protect aluminum, the main customer. When did the last copper radiator leave the factory, two+ decades ago, so why would they care? It doesn't do a good job of protecting copper, mainly the solder, commonly see bloom, corrosion, solder thinning, etc. We often travel in caravans of '80s, and have yet see a copper that will cool on par with any aluminum and have seen most of them stressed and the difference is significant. In our experience a dealer copper will not keep up with even the cheapest aftermarket aluminum. They may work well enough for some less demanding climates, but why give up capacity?

At one time, copper lasted a very longtime, not seeing that now. Could get them inexpensively repaired, now not so much, the last two we had quoted were twice what a new one cost and both of our favorite shops have now gone out of business. Now my first choice is aluminum, the only time I would recommend copper is; a nut & bolt restoration or if there is nothing available. Aluminum and plastic is well proven, can be had inexpensively, work well, see them as disposable, change them as needed, a clean new core is always better than old and crusty.
 
Could not agree more @Tools R Us ! You speak the absolute truth. I have a copper tanked version at this point.. but it is my last. I maybe an old fart.. but I do not always buy into "old school" anymore!
 
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I spend a lot of time (too much, okay) reading this board and have always found Tools' advice to be 1) spot on, and, 2) evidence based. He says go Koyo or TYC. I bought and installed a Koyo last year as PM, got it cheap off Amazon. I'd do it again. Again, Tools has spent more time driving and working on these rigs than most of us (me, for sure), and his opinions are well reasoned and informed.

Good luck with your purchase and install.
 
I installed the Koyorad aluminum A1918 a couple months ago and it seems pretty good. Cheapest price I found online was a place in LA. I got it for less than $200 shipped.
 
With the varying construction, a better indicator is core thickness. If core thickness is the same, one with less cores will be the most efficient, cool the best. Newer design, aluminum, allows for wider/deeper core tubes, so more of the tube area has fin contact. Also allows for tighter fin and tube spacing. So a 1" single core can be more efficient, have more cooling capacity than a 1-1/4" 3 core. The aluminum designs also often have significantly lower air restriction, so need less fan to do the same job.

Up to recently I was one who would always recommend copper, all metal, not any more. Newer antifreeze formulas are biased to protect aluminum, the main customer. When did the last copper radiator leave the factory, two+ decades ago, so why would they care? It doesn't do a good job of protecting copper, mainly the solder, commonly see bloom, corrosion, solder thinning, etc. We often travel in caravans of '80s, and have yet see a copper that will cool on par with any aluminum and have seen most of them stressed and the difference is significant. In our experience a dealer copper will not keep up with even the cheapest aftermarket aluminum. They may work well enough for some less demanding climates, but why give up capacity?

At one time, copper lasted a very longtime, not seeing that now. Could get them inexpensively repaired, now not so much, the last two we had quoted were twice what a new one cost and both of our favorite shops have now gone out of business. Now my first choice is aluminum, the only time I would recommend copper is; a nut & bolt restoration or if there is nothing available. Aluminum and plastic is well proven, can be had inexpensively, work well, see them as disposable, change them as needed, a clean new core is always better than old and crusty.

Do you have a recommendation on a quality aluminum rad if not going with a copper replacement?
 
Koyo.
 
TYC 1918 on Amazon/Ebay has performed well for several seasons here in the Sonoran Desert for several of the local guys. No
Do you have a recommendation on a quality aluminum rad if not going with a copper replacement?

I think he really likes the TYC 1918.
 

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