Radiator Leak Build is Getting A Diesel!

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I have had many turbine housings coated over the years, most have been ceramic coated. The paint on coatings do not seem to last.

If you are asking about coating the compressor housing too I have seen no improvement in performance from coating that. You would see much more benefit moving the air filter to a cooler spot on the engine bay or making the first set-up fit with a belt that is in-between the too short one and one you have now.

I look at coating the exhaust manifold and turbine as purely cosmetic things. There is no appreciable difference in under hood temps or performance. I have had much better thermal reduction results using high quality turbine housing dippers and down pipe wraps.

:cheers:

oh yeah, i totally understand it would be purely for aesthetic reasons :D I had all that stuff coated in my 2F and loved the way it looked.

I tried my best to make that toyota air cleaner housing work but unless they start making half sizes in belts, it just wont work. there just wasn't enough adjustment room there. I do want to explore other options but i think fabrication is the next logical step.
 
oh yeah, i totally understand it would be purely for aesthetic reasons :D I had all that stuff coated in my 2F and loved the way it looked.

I tried my best to make that toyota air cleaner housing work but unless they start making half sizes in belts, it just wont work. there just wasn't enough adjustment room there. I do want to explore other options but i think fabrication is the next logical step.

Sounds good, some people think its magical and reduces/eliminates heat. It does look very good for a long time if done right.

They do sell half sizes, you can get belts in 1/2" sizes incraments. I was just getting a belt for my 4BD1T the other day that needed to be 1 1/2" shorter than the ones on it. Walked into the parts place with the belt it had and asked for the same one shorter. Ended up only needing a belt .5" shorter to get the Alternator where I wanted it. They had all different sizes there on the shelve, it does not need to be a belt for that specific engine remember. With the belt off the engine they can determine the width of belt you need and then the length is when ever you need or want.

It took me a couple tries to get the size I needed right.

:cheers:
 
The two gauges that I think every turbo diesel should have (and I'm not alone on this) is a boost gauge and a pyrometer. I'd pick those up before thinking about adding an intercooler. Especially since you do a lot of hills and are planning to tow a trailer in the future, a pyrometer would be very helpful. Without those you really don't know where your engine is at when pushing it or even when driving around and you won't be able to see the difference/benefit an intercooler can make.
 
boots4 said:
The two gauges that I think every turbo diesel should have (and I'm not alone on this) is a boost gauge and a pyrometer. I'd pick those up before thinking about adding an intercooler. Especially since you do a lot of hills and are planning to tow a trailer in the future, a pyrometer would be very helpful. Without those you really don't know where your engine is at when pushing it or even when driving around and you won't be able to see the difference/benefit an intercooler can make.

Hands down these are the two critical gauges. Boots has understated how critical these are. You absolutely MUST know exhaust temps. Especially when playing with old diesels. 1250F happens really quick and beyond that things start melting.
 
I agree that boost and pyro are absolutely essential if you intend to modify your fueling settings at all. Stock fuel settings shouldn't provide any issue, but if you change anything, those two numbers become paramount.
 
Prowler--great job on the rig; yes to the intercooler; traveling in the west coast Cascades or Rockies further east with your rig empty or with the trailer, on a warm summer day--really will be good to have. As noted by the others--gauges are key to getting your settings all on track.

? Based in Washington with Oregon plates..? Maybe we'll bump into you someday (near Portland),
LCDiesel60
 
Gauges - Boost and Pyro are needed first!

Plumbing and mounting an intercooler is not very difficult. Finding a place to mount it is the hardest part of it. After that, buy some pipe, hoses and clamps and it's done.

Check out my diesel swap below (pg 2-3_ and you can see how I did mine with the Isuzu diesel. I bought the pipe and hoses from CSRacing.com

Looks good!

Doug
 
I have had many turbine housings coated over the years, most have been ceramic coated. The paint on coatings do not seem to last.
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What he said. We coated the turbo on the 3B. Still looks good, and the ceramic definitely helps keep the heat from radiating off of the exhaust manifold and turbo housing. Probably doesn't do much more than keep the hood a bit cooler, but that's still a big bonus in my book.

Really easy to remove the turbine housing. Should only take 10 minutes, and any ceramic coating shop should be pretty familiar with coating turbine housings.

Dan
 
Elbert said:
post up some more pics of the engine from different angles? What transmission you running?

Where is this specific engine found...?

Fawking killer set up, envious, but as stated before thank you for your service and it well deserved. Ive read the whole thread and since just had a rod bearing go in my 263k mile cruiser, and itching for a diesel I would love to go this route. Could you possible give some more info on where you sourced the motor from and what mods needed to be done to mate the trans to the motor? the new ISB cummins engine looked promising but also unknown territory and chaching for just the motor. Thanks
And once again awesome build
 
Update!

Got some new interior goodies:
cocomats.com, i read about them somewhere on here and they looked super high quality so i started talking with Drew there. He sent me a pattern they had stored for the FJ60 which was, lets just say, "interesting." so i made my own patterns and picked my materials and boom on my doorstep 3 weeks later.

I am super impressed, they are super high quality.
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If you look in there you can see the new tuffy console as well. You guys have seen a million of those though- bolted right in.

Another thing im proud of:
Finally an OEM 5 speed shift knob!
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So ive wanted this for a long time but was unable, finally scouring ebay i found a celica knob new, 30 bucks from thailand. I ordered that, the actual knob was too small, so i carefully pryed the shift plate off, found a cheap oem one from cruisercorps and swapped the plates. Not the easiest way, but now i have a new matching shift knob.

Its the details!
 
Dude that is SICK!!!! I was always wondering if they ever made an OEM 5spd shift knob that has the same graphic as the 4spd. Whether it was easy or not does not matter.. That is just... wow!
Oh and you HAVE to share where you got the knob or what search you used...
 
Also going a different route with the truck, a route without the swingouts unfortunately...
Just too much for the wife with dogs kids and stuff to deal with so yeah, they are cool but i guess life is full of compromises... expensive compromises...:doh:
If youre interested here is the link:

60/62 Swingouts For Sale

Going to get the holes welded, the spindles plasma'd off and a new piece of 5bar on top. should look good. spare will be back where she came from!
 
Dude that is SICK!!!! I was always wondering if they ever made an OEM 5spd shift knob that has the same graphic as the 4spd. Whether it was easy or not does not matter.. That is just... wow!
Oh and you HAVE to share where you got the knob or what search you used...

Im a huge stickler for these little details, i think it just ends up costing me money. Oh well!

here is the link:
5 Speed Knob: Ebay

30 bucks for a shift plate...:D
 
Where did you source the motor for this truck and what mods where needed to mate the trans?
 
Where did you source the motor for this truck and what mods where needed to mate the trans?

motor was new directly from cummins, it mates to a gm adapter which mates to a gm/toyo adapter.

Proffitts did it, as i was deployed, but i tried to stay involved in the (every) details (tried to) which im sure made them happy...:D
 
So i finally got the exterior lineX done! 30 years of rock chips gone.

Had them follow the lines discussed here:Anal Retentive Owner Needs Opinions on Exterior Line-X

I made sure there was absolutely no rust before the coating was applied. They covered all holes, finally get to get rid of the duct tape i had covering the snake blinder holes!
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