Quick way to disable the RS3000? (1 Viewer)

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Feb 23, 2011
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I'm worried about being able to do this in the time I have

I'm moving cross-country in a few days and I'm swamped with moving related stuff so I can't really spend hours or days digging around in the wiring harness. My new company is paying for car shipping and I'm shipping my factory RS3000 equipped 1995 FZJ80. The car shipping company requires alarms to be disabled for obvious reasons so I went out to my cruiser to try to put it in "valet mode."

Followed the directions and instead of getting "valet mode" it was going to "panic mode." I took the remote apart and the "top" button (the one NOT used for locking/unlocking) was missing half the microswitch underneath it, and the part that was left was loose under the rubber button layer.

2018-03-14 18.51.15.jpg


This is an FCCID BAB237131-013 remote that had the Toyota logo on the top

Without the other button I can't follow the RS3000 instructions to get into valet mode, so my other option would seem to be disabling the system altogether but I know there are features that'll prevent the engine from starting if I just disconnect the ECU.

I looked on the forums and it seems like a total s**t show getting a replacement remote to work with the RS3000, even when the remotes look like an exact match. I don't have time between now and when I move to screw around with all that nonsense, anything short of Amazon Prime would get here too late anyway and there are no -013 remotes on Amazon Prime right now

Anyone have any suggestions?
 
The short answer is pull the wires from the vampire taps in the two connectors in the DS kickpanel. That disables the window/door lock override.

There are two splices in the ignition circuit that have to be removed and those wires have to be reconnected. Look under the steel panel behind the plastic knee panel trim for the ignition cylinder wiring. They're the large 12-14 ga wires; there's no telling what they used when they installed them, so without a photo, I can help you with the wire colors. You may have to unplug the airbag; it's the yellow plug. Be careful and you won't break the locking mechanism.

It's about a half hour job. That's all there is to disabling the system. Removing it is a little more work.
 
I'm not trying to be funny but why don't you drive the vehicle to your new location? Assuming you are now in Austin, TX most any place in the US are going to be within two days drive. Even with gas, food and lodging the cost is going to be less than a truck transport. If your employer is paying the bill you could easily negotiate more time and enjoy the road trip, see some sites do some light wheeling.

Other option would be to disconnect the battery after it is loaded on the transporter so the alarm wouldn't be a problem.
 
I'm not trying to be funny but why don't you drive the vehicle to your new location? Assuming you are now in Austin, TX most any place in the US are going to be within two days drive. Even with gas, food and lodging the cost is going to be less than a truck transport. If your employer is paying the bill you could easily negotiate more time and enjoy the road trip, see some sites do some light wheeling.

Other option would be to disconnect the battery after it is loaded on the transporter so the alarm wouldn't be a problem.

Thought about driving it, that was my original plan, but it's got some serious issues. Aside from the engine leaks, the driver side birf is weeping badly and has been for far too long, and on top of that I am about 50/50 that the head gasket replacement I had done locally about 3 years ago has failed after about 10,000 miles. Haven't had the time to get one of those checkers, but it seems that combustion gases may be getting forced into the cooling system. It can start and drive short distances fine but I decided driving it 1500 miles to LA in one go when I'm on a tight time table to be at my new job on a certain date is far too risky. Starting my new job as "sorry I missed my start date by a week, my car broke down in Arizona" would be very bad. Especially over a dang alarm.

Question though: if my RS3000 doesn't re-arm itself, can I just unlock the car and lock/unlock/drive the thing with the key the old fashioned way or will there be some event that causes the alarm to re-arm itself?
 
Don't give them the Fob, just give them the key.
No Pushy, No Noisy.
 
Purchased my lx450 approx 10 yrs ago. Prior owner did not provide remotes at time of sale . Wasn’t aware of rs3000 system till removed front row seats. It never gave me an issue even at time of battery replacement. Agree with Hornd, just don’t give them the fob.
 
Thanks guys, think I was having a meltdown over nothing. I disarmed it earlier and took the remote apart and have been using the key, if it hasn't come on yet I'm guessing it won't come on randomly on I-10

Moving is stressful as all hell, will be very glad when I'm all settled in and looking to find more cruiserheads out in LA
 
Why would anyone move FROM Texas To California?

Seems the reverse has been true the last 10 years or so. Californians moving here (Texas) in droves.
 
Preaching to the choir brother, I think it'll be a fun adventure at this point in my life, but I know I won't stay there forever. The job opportunity was exactly what I need experience-wise though and after a long struggle searching I was very happy to get the offer. The safe parts of LA are so unaffordable, and the cost of living is so high, I know I could never afford to settle down there in the long run. Texas isn't perfect, but all things considered it is a great place to live. I will miss my fellow Texans dearly. HEB too.
 
Purchased my lx450 approx 10 yrs ago. Prior owner did not provide remotes at time of sale . Wasn’t aware of rs3000 system till removed front row seats. It never gave me an issue even at time of battery replacement. Agree with Hornd, just don’t give them the fob.
Late to this thread and hopefully you're around to answer still...

I'm swapping out my front leather seats for cloth soon and I have the RS3000 alarm in my '97 - is that alarm system easy to pull out when you remove the seats? The PO didn't have a key fob, he just handed me a key when I bought it 6 years ago (for about $2k!).

She's all stock and unmodified and I'm finally in a position with my career where I can afford to make some modifications. Once the baselining and tune up is complete, I'm changing out some creature comforts...I already have a line on the seats and I'm picking them up this weekend.



Thanks!
 
Late to this thread and hopefully you're around to answer still...

I'm swapping out my front leather seats for cloth soon and I have the RS3000 alarm in my '97 - is that alarm system easy to pull out when you remove the seats? The PO didn't have a key fob, he just handed me a key when I bought it 6 years ago (for about $2k!).

She's all stock and unmodified and I'm finally in a position with my career where I can afford to make some modifications. Once the baselining and tune up is complete, I'm changing out some creature comforts...I already have a line on the seats and I'm picking them up this weekend.



Thanks!
Yes, if you pull the driver's seat, the lower dash plate under the steering column, you can trace and remove the RS3000 system in about 30 minutes.

I also took the time to add a CDL switch and do the Pin 7 mod at the same time. It took me a total of 4 hours, but the removal of the alarm was easy to unplug and replug as you start at the alarm and work your way through until all wires are released.
 
Yes, if you pull the driver's seat, the lower dash plate under the steering column, you can trace and remove the RS3000 system in about 30 minutes.

I also took the time to add a CDL switch and do the Pin 7 mod at the same time. It took me a total of 4 hours, but the removal of the alarm was easy to unplug and replug as you start at the alarm and work your way through until all wires are released.

Awesome! Thank you for the info!


D.
 
Find other security threads (including more info on the original alarm system) here:

 

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