Quick question on removing clutch slave (1 Viewer)

[Last Flight Out]

Before I start removing bolts and things for something, I’ve never removed before just wanted to check with the collective here.

I’m going to replace my clutch fork boot and need to remove the slave just to slip on the new one. Is it my understanding that once I remove the two bolts here (with number one and two shown) and spring, the slave just comes off as one unit - including the rod with the set screws shown (blue arrow)? Or does I need to undo the adjustment screws?

 

[BeerM3]

You actually still have a clutch fork boot?!? There shouldn't be any tension between the clutch fork and the push rod when there's no pressure being applied to the clutch. Toyota recommends having 3-4mm of play actually. Not enough that they rattle together, but enough that you can wiggle the fork that much with your fingers. You're good to just take out those two bolts and move it out of the way.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Use a hook and pull the spring off at the fork end. More than likely you can move the fork out and to the side, while pushing the rod to the side in the other direction - then pull off/install the boot.

 

[Paul_A]

Should be no need to remove the slave cyl. Just unhook the spring and wangle the boot past the rod on the fork. Everything goes back just as it was unhooked.

 

[rex in bama]

Should be no need to remove the slave cyl. Just unhook the spring and wangle the boot past the rod on the fork. Everything goes back just as it was unhooked.

Spot on - no need to remove it

 

[Last Flight Out]

Should be no need to remove the slave cyl. Just unhook the spring and wangle the boot past the rod on the fork. Everything goes back just as it was unhooked.

Thanks @Paul_A

 

[Last Flight Out]

…alright, anyone wanna tell me how it’s even possible to separate the fork and slave push rod as you all suggested? Do I need to slacken the adjustment nut here? I mean I pulled and pulled on the fork and does not seem like I need to be putting this much pressure on it.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Never saw one that looks like that. You can try to loosen the adjustment or back to your plan A and just remove the slave body complete.

 

[Last Flight Out]

Never saw one that looks like that. You can try to loosen the adjustment or back to your plan A and just remove the slave body complete.

This is all stock Toyota I believe. The rod will not separate from the fork and I assume there is a beveled end to the rod that cups into that fork. Just will not separate. Also tried to push in clutch (with helper) and cannot separate that way as well. What am I missing here??

 

[charliemeyer007]

The rod should easily pull out from the slave cylinder, once the slave is unbolted and slid away. Working your boot off/on over the rod in the fork might be possible. If not then unscrew the rod with like vice grips and a wrench after loosing the jam nut. If your clutch is working fine - then measure the rod length before you disturb it, so you can put back.

 

[Pighead]

This is all stock Toyota I believe. The rod will not separate from the fork and I assume there is a beveled end to the rod that cups into that fork. Just will not separate. Also tried to push in clutch (with helper) and cannot separate that way as well. What am I missing here??

You should have just a hair of free play between the pushrod and the fork. If there is no play it might mean that your throw-out is always turning. loosen the two nuts at the fork end and shorten the pushrod until you get that hair of free play.
Might as well just take off the slave cylinder, it just two bolts...

 

[Last Flight Out]

You should have just a hair of free play between the pushrod and the fork. If there is no play it might mean that your throw-out is always turning. loosen the two nuts at the fork end and shorten the pushrod until you get that hair of free play.
Might as well just take off the slave cylinder, it just two bolts...

@Pighead thanks for the good explanation. This makes sense now… But the last question I have is will the push rod come completely out of the slave (when I remove from mounting points) and do I need to worry about that?

Sorry for the basic questions but this is the first time I’m messing around with this part of the truck.

 

[Pighead]

@Pighead thanks for the good explanation. This makes sense now… But the last question I have is will the push rod come completely out of the slave (when I remove from mounting points) and do I need to worry about that?

Sorry for the basic questions but this is the first time I’m messing around with this part of the truck.

The pushrod can come out of the slave, sometimes the rubber boot might keep it in. No worries, the pushrod sits in a cup in that end of the slave piston. The piston probably won't fall out unless you push on the clutch pedal. If it does just put it back in and bleed the clutch.
Maybe your pushrod looks like this?

 

[Last Flight Out]

The pushrod can come out of the slave, sometimes the rubber boot might keep it in. No worries, the pushrod sits in a cup in that end of the slave piston. The piston probably won't fall out unless you push on the clutch pedal. If it does just put it back in and bleed the clutch.
Maybe your pushrod looks like this?

View attachment 3698655

Sweet. Learning as I’m going through every part on this truck it seems. My very first job was steering box removal/re-install with a monster pitman arm remover. This should be a tad easier

 

[rex in bama]

Here’s mine on my 82 when I replaced it - yours looks stock. Seems like I removed the spring then adjusted the nut back - it then separated from the fork. The shaft did not fall out of the boot. Make sure you measure the length before you start adjusting it back. You want it the same length when you reinstall

 

[pb4ugo]

Just remove the 2 bolts that hold the slave. The rod should come with the slave. If the rod falls out it's no big deal as pighead mentioned. Don't alter the length of the rod if it worked properly b4. If you want to adjust the clutch follow the instructions below. It's from a fsm dated 1975. The procedure should be the similar for your 79. You could skip to step "release cyldr".

 

[Last Flight Out]

Thanks again guys! Virtual beers to you all

 

[Last Flight Out]

Update: thanks again to everybody for helping me out here and the right solution was to just unbolt the slave from the bracket which freed up everything. Could not loosen the adjustment nuts so it was just easy just to pull the slave off. The hardest part was getting that stupid new rubber boot to sit properly into the housing. Go figure.

 

[knuckle47]

Glad it’s done….always a good feeling…if you ever need to replace the entire unit, you know now it a quick and easy job….and they are not expensive and should last another decade or 2….It’s still a good idea to try keeping that “hair” gap at the fork. If it tight, it’s as if your may be riding the clutch as @Pighead mentions.

 

[Last Flight Out]

Glad it’s done….always a good feeling…if you ever need to replace the entire unit, you know now it a quick and easy job….and they are not expensive and should last another decade or 2….It’s still a good idea to try keeping that “hair” gap at the fork. If it tight, it’s as if your may be riding the clutch as @Pighead mentions.

It’s right up against that fork, but was not tight enough where when removing the two bolts to the slave, it would have been impossible to get back into place, had to slightly push in the slave rod a tad and it went right back into place.