Quick question about AHC ride with extra weight (2 Viewers)

[ParaJake]

Hey guys, I have a 2006 land cruiser and I like the ride on it for the most part but I feel I may be missing out on something due to having AHC problems. Everyone says the land cruisers ride like clouds, but its not all THAT smooth to me. It rides pretty good, but only slightly better than my 2003 stock 4runner that I traded for this 100 series.
My 100 won't drop to low or lift up to high. This isn't a huge issue to me if its not causing any deficit in the ride. But, I had never ridden in a land cruiser prior to buying this one and I have never ridden in any other land cruiser so I don't have anything to compare it to.

After starting my car and driving for a few seconds, the AHC OFF light flashes constantly. I had this checked by a Toyota dealership and they said it was all of the height sensors. Does this sound right? That ALL of the sensors are bad? Or is it a fluke?

I'd love to get this thing working 100%, but I can deal with non-working AHC for now.

My main question is about riding with passengers in the 2nd row seats. When I have passengers in the second row, the ride gets very bad and I feel bad for the people in the back. It feels like the suspension is bottoming out with no more than 500 lbs in the back seat. This can't be right as I know the towing capacity is way more than that and I know that this thing is rated for more than just a measly 500lbs of human flesh bags in the back. Its actually more like 400lbs. Could this rough ride be due to a failing AHC system? It doesn't ride bad with myself and another in the front seats.

Also, does the ride stiffness control knob (next to the AHC position button) work if the AHC height sensors are bad?

I'd like to mention also that my AHC height control has never worked since I bought this about 7 months ago.

 

[ramangain]

A local in your area can probably help you out. I know a couple of us in Dayton have Techstream to help diagnose if you want to make the trek.

 

[JJ_SC]

Yeah, it shouldn't be ridding rough. Your passengers should be lulled to sleep by how smooth an quiet your Cruiser is.

The OFF light will flash if just one sensor is messed up. It doesn't mean they all are. Techstream should help you figure that out. The stiffness control won't work if the system has shut itself off, as far as I know.

Tons of info here in the forum. Access to techstream is key like @ramangain said.

Probably start with this:

The ABCs of AHC - How to Measure, Flush, and Adjust all in one place

I initially put this in the Definitive list of AHC maintenance items thread, but at almost 800 posts long and growing, it's going to get buried and the thread itself is very unwieldy. In an attempt to make as focused a summary as possible, I present "The ABCs of AHC." It's intended as a...

forum.ih8mud.com

And this:

Definitive list of AHC maintenance items

My nagging "issue" with AHC is wondering if the suspension doesn't feel quite right. I feel bumps pretty well and I subjectively recall an older 100 series land cruiser standard suspension feeling like being on a cloud vs the small cracks in the road. The question is driving me insane when I'm...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Hokie LX]

I would definitely change the fluid as step 1 then maybe just baseline the sensors with new ones. They’re relatively cheap.

if you have a LC shop nearby they may be able to help or post in the Ohio clubhouse to ask if someone local can lend a hand.

I would also search techstream on this forum and get that setup so you can see what the pressures are. That will give you some insight into the condition of the sensors.

 

[ParaJake]

Wow, thanks for the quick replies everyone. I did see one member posted a very long video about techstream and adjusting things on the land cruiser some time ago. I figured mine wouldn't register the pressures because I can't switch out of the neutral position on the AHC height. I've also seen videos where certain versions of techstream won't work with certain years of land cruisers. I have a 12 hour drive coming up later this year and I'll be taking 3 others with me so I'm hoping to have it riding like a cloud by then.

@ramangain, I could make the trek. I don't mind driving and I work a 24/48 schedule so I have plenty of time between work days. Send me a message and we can figure out a day!

 

[LndXrsr]

If you’re ever down in Cincinnati, I’d be happy to help look at it with you.

First steps are flush the fluid and get access to Techstream readings in some way. You won’t be able to check pressures if you can’t move L to N, but you can get love sensor readings which could point you to which sensor(s) is/are problematic. Read my ABCs of AHC for more options besides Techstream that you can use to get readings.

Tightening your front torsion bars a few turns equally on both sides might also relive enough AHC pressure to at least allow you to move up and down if an overloaded system is the issue. This is less likely since you can’t move down to L however.

 

[IndroCruise]

Hey guys, I have a 2006 land cruiser and I like the ride on it for the most part but I feel I may be missing out on something due to having AHC problems. Everyone says the land cruisers ride like clouds, but its not all THAT smooth to me. It rides pretty good, but only slightly better than my 2003 stock 4runner that I traded for this 100 series.
My 100 won't drop to low or lift up to high. This isn't a huge issue to me if its not causing any deficit in the ride. But, I had never ridden in a land cruiser prior to buying this one and I have never ridden in any other land cruiser so I don't have anything to compare it to.

After starting my car and driving for a few seconds, the AHC OFF light flashes constantly. I had this checked by a Toyota dealership and they said it was all of the height sensors. Does this sound right? That ALL of the sensors are bad? Or is it a fluke?

I'd love to get this thing working 100%, but I can deal with non-working AHC for now.

My main question is about riding with passengers in the 2nd row seats. When I have passengers in the second row, the ride gets very bad and I feel bad for the people in the back. It feels like the suspension is bottoming out with no more than 500 lbs in the back seat. This can't be right as I know the towing capacity is way more than that and I know that this thing is rated for more than just a measly 500lbs of human flesh bags in the back. Its actually more like 400lbs. Could this rough ride be due to a failing AHC system? It doesn't ride bad with myself and another in the front seats.

Also, does the ride stiffness control knob (next to the AHC position button) work if the AHC height sensors are bad?

I'd like to mention also that my AHC height control has never worked since I bought this about 7 months ago.

To add to the replies already received -- with late edit, additional paragraphs added ….

If the AHC light is flashing, then the Active Height Control (AHC) part of the system is not working, which is why there is no response to LO and HI height selections. There also will be no response to the four-position “Comfort . . Sport” switch. It also means that the “Toyota Electronic Modulated Suspension” (TEMS) part of the system is not working and that the system is likely to be in one of several ‘fail safe modes’ where ‘fail safe’ means preventing system damage and preventing the vehicle becoming unsafe in some way.

TEMS provides adaptive variable suspension by varying the damping characteristics through 16 steps in real time while the vehicle is being driven – if the system is working correctly. In the most common ‘fail safe mode’, the TEMS system will adopt and remain in step 8 of the 16 damping steps and the AHC system will not operate but will remain in standard “N” height. In this condition, the ride usually will feel more harsh than expected at town speeds (because the damping is too hard when fixed at Step 8) and may wallow at highway speeds (because the damping is too soft when fixed at Step 8).

One easy indication of such a non-operating condition is whether the vehicle settles lower when loaded and does not self-adjust to “N” height as it should – such as when passengers are on board in the rear seats. The vehicle is meant self-adjust regardless of load but within these load limits:

Note: The loads include everything in or on the vehicle – driver, passengers, luggage, fuel, modifications, accessories and fittings – everything.

To better understand the system, it is helpful to print and read the General Description of the operation of the AHC/TEMS system – this can be found at the following link. (This might seem to be an old link but there have been no significant changes in the way the AHC/TEMS system works on LC100/LX470 vehicles since these systems were first introduced). The link is to the genuine multi-year Toyota LC100 Factory Service Manual (FSM). The extract above comes from this link.

https://lc100e.github.io/manual/
Go to tabs at Index Panel, top left of opening page -- New Car Features (first item in the list) > CHASSIS > Suspension > Active Height Control Suspension & Skyhook TEMS.

So what causes a ‘fail safe condition’ with symptoms like those described?

The most common causes are:

Overload leading to excessive AHC pressures beyond the specification range – this may be due to simple overloading beyond the limits of the system. Or it will happen anyway, even with 'normal' loads, as the vehicle ages and the ‘spring rates’ of the front torsion bars and rear coil springs progressively soften and carry less load, meaning that the AHC system inevitably carries more load. So the AHC pressures rise naturally over the years with the aging of the vehicle and its mechanical torsion bars and springs. Eventually, the AHC pressures will be found to be beyond the FSM-specified range. The front AHC pressures can be reduced easily by using the torsion bar adjusters to increase load carried by the torsion bars and reduce load carried by the front AHC system and thereby reduce front AHC pressure. The rear is not so easily adjustable and may require ‘spacers’ to pre-load the rear coil springs to increase the load they carry and reduce the rear AHC pressure, or, replacement rear coil springs, possibly upgraded, may be the answer.

One or more problematic Height Control Sensors – the AHC Electronic Control Unit (ECU) relies, among other things, on correct signals from the three Height Control Sensors – Front Right, Front Left and Rear (one only). It only takes one faulty Height Control Sensor, or large differences between wrongly adjusted Sensors, to cause conflicting inputs to the ECU and for the ECU to put the system into ‘fail safe mode’ (as described above) until the fault is corrected.

There are the most common causes and need to be resolved first before looking for other more complex causes. Other causes can be studied in the FSM – see reference list below.

It is also worthwhile to check whether the vehicle has been cross-levelled correctly – meaning static front hub-to-fender heights are equal within 10 millimetres (0.39 inches), less is better, with engine “OFF” – and also worthwhile to check that front and rear ‘operating heights’ are correct with engine "ON" and suspension settled – for a stock vehicle: front 19.75 inches, rear 20.5 inches, hub-to-fender, with the vehicle empty (or with usual ‘fixed’ loads such as armour etc already compensated by correct springs, torsion bar adjustment) but no added variable load, no pax, fuel full, on level ground, previously cross-levelled correctly.

The point here is that ‘height’ and ‘AHC pressure’ are interdependent – unless changes are made to compensate, more height means more AHC pressure, less height means less AHC pressure. AHC pressures which are too low or too high will result in poor damping performance – AHC pressures must be kept within the FSM-specified ranges, preferably towards the low end, for best damping and best ride comfort.

Unless the maintenance record shows that ‘globes’ have been replaced recently, they may be past their best and replacement may be necessary at some time. The test of overall condition of ‘globes’ is observation of AHC Tank levels at “HI” and “LO” heights. Backlight the tank with a torch from behind or through the cap if the fluid is old and dark. (New fluid is a light pink). Difference of 14 graduations means ‘globes’ are as new, 7 graduations means time to replace ‘globes’ because too much nitrogen has been lost from behind the membranes. ‘Globes’ are ‘wear items’, so this happens eventually. This test cannot be made until AHC will raise and lower and so this must wait until other problems are resolved and corrected.

Note that poor condition of ‘globes’ does not prevent AHC raise-lower operation.

However, poor ‘globe’ condition certainly will adversely affect damping performance and cause a rough, ‘springy’ ride.

Some further references:

Owner’s Manual:

If not at hand, this link to the Owner’s Manual and Maintenance Schedule for your vehicle may be useful.
Toyota Warranty & Toyota Manuals | Toyota Owners - https://www.toyota.com/owners/resources/warranty-owners-manuals

AHC Diagnostics:

https://lc100e.github.io/manual/
At this link, use the Index on the left hand side of the opening page and follow these tabs:
Repair Manual > DIAGNOSTICS > ACTIVE HEIGHT CONTROL & SKYHOOK TEMS

AHC On-Vehicle Inspection including correct AHC pressure ranges:

https://lc100e.github.io/manual/
At this link, use the Index on the left hand side of the opening page and follow these tabs:
Repair Manual > SUSPENSION AND AXLE > ACTIVE HEIGHT CONTROL SYSTEM (Independent Front Suspension) > ON-VEHICLE INSPECTION


BROADCASTING AGAIN THE GOLDEN RULE: ALWAYS HAVE JACKSTANDS UNDER THE CHASSIS RAILS WHEN WORKING UNDER THE CAR ON THE AHC SYSTEM – and yes, this is shouted in bold capitals not to be offensive but for good reasons, cannot be repeated often enough. Accidents do happen. A hard barrier -- such as fixed, lockable stands secure at the chassis rails, certainly not jacks -- is a ‘must have’ to ensure that an unexpected to descent of the car body onto a human body is impossible.

 

[ParaJake]

@IndroCruise That is an outstandingly valuable read with a LOT of great info! Thanks for that!

 

[IndroCruise]

@IndroCruise That is an outstandingly valuable read with a LOT of great info! Thanks for that!

No problem -- just added a couple of paragraphs for completeness as a "Late Edit"'

 

[suprarx7nut]

Lots of help so far. Awesome crowd here to support you. Sounds like a little amount of careful diagnostics and some routine baselining might be all you need. If the globes are of unknown age, that's a likely replacement need now or in near future. ~$750 shipped for a full set on those.

Let us know how it goes!

 

[IndroCruise]

Lots of help so far. Awesome crowd here to support you. Sounds like a little amount of careful diagnostics and some routine baselining might be all you need. If the globes are of unknown age, that's a likely replacement need now or in near future. ~$750 shipped for a full set on those.

Let us know how it goes!

To @ParaJake :

@suprarx7nut has not mentioned it so I will -- if not already seen, his excellent video and "Cheat Sheet" is recommended as part of your AHC/TEMS 'general education' and on the specifics of adjusting the system -- see
Builds - The YotaMD Build - Cypress - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-yotamd-build-cypress.1184210/page-9#post-13383404

The two links mentioned by @JJ_SC at Post#3 above also are important. The "ABCs of AHC" thread initiated by @LndXrsr is succinct and most worthwhile. The "Definitive List of Maintenance Issues" is now a long and unwieldy thread -- but it is part of a long-term permanent IH8MUD record on AHC/TEMS matters and there is a lot of good information in there. There are many other helpful threads -- but maybe that is enough 'information overload' for a start!!

 

[ramangain]

I was messaging with the OP offline and pointed to him an appropriate TS + cable combo. I think he's got loads of info to go in the right direction, including offers of video conference support if things get dicey.

Great AHC support in this forum from the comfort of your own garage/driveway

 

[ParaJake]

I know it's been some months since I posted this but I finally got around to doing actual work on my AHC system.

A few updates: I acquired a copy of TechStream and bought an old 32bit windows laptop to run it. Works great and I love the idea of being able to tweak everything.

I was getting codes that both AHC front sensors were bad. My AHC OFF light was blinking constantly. Well, after replacing the sensors, the OFF light no longer blinks. A small success that I'm happy about. Hopefully that means I did the right thing.

My current situation: While my OFF light no longer blinks, the system still won't go into HI or LO. When I hit the switch, the green indicator light blinks and will keep blinking unless I cancel it and select neutral again. My doors are all closed and the door switches all work so it's not my doors. I have not adjusted the new sensors to be zero yet either. I just took them.out of the box and installed them. The way the truck sits doesn't seem to have changed at all so it hasn't self adjusted to the new readings which I believe it should do because the new height sensors are not even close to the same reading. They're an inch different in reading.

When I have techstream open to view live data, I'm getting good readings from all of the height sensors. But, all of the pressures are reading 0's across the board. I would think there has to be some pressure in the system or else I'd be sitting stuck in the low position, right? Also, I feel like the comfort control is actually working now. It could be in my head, but it definitely makes a difference on my butt-meter.

My question now is, should I be looking at possibly the system's pressure sensors? Or do I need to adjust the height sensors first to get them reading the same number?

I may have missed this information in some of my reading but you'll have to take it easy on me. There's a TON of information to read through. I read through the threads linked above, but I couldn't seem to find the information I'm looking for.

I was hoping to get the system bled and refilled bit I if the thing won't go into HI or LO, I don't want to chance bleeding the system, just for it to be stuck bottomed out.

I'll try to attach a pic of my readings on techstream and maybe somebody more familiar with the normal readings can see if something doesn't add up.

 

[Rebus Knebus]

Pressure sensors won’t give a reading until after going low to high. You have one trouble code, what is it?

 

[ramangain]

We can try some basic troubleshooting over the interwebz

1. As sated above, what is the stored code?
2. When you try L or H, do you hear any sounds from the AHC pump/reservoir area?
3. What color is the fluid? How much is in the reservoir as it currently sits?

My offer still stands for in person help.

 

[ParaJake]

Ok, so after getting to the shop today, I hooked up to techstream and there were no codes listed and none showing on the data list page. There are no sounds coming from the area of the reservoir. The fluid is a brownish hue, but clean (I know the new stuff is pink). And the level is right in the middle between max and min.

 

[Moridinbg]

The height only changes when in Park and all doors (including trunk) are closed (open door light on the dash is not lit). You can keep the driver's door open and stay outside if you push on the rubber switch on the pillar at the level of the door handle

 

[ParaJake]

Yeah I figured that would be workaround. Thanks for confirming @Moridinbg

 

[IndroCruise]

I know it's been some months since I posted this but I finally got around to doing actual work on my AHC system.

A few updates: I acquired a copy of TechStream and bought an old 32bit windows laptop to run it. Works great and I love the idea of being able to tweak everything.

I was getting codes that both AHC front sensors were bad. My AHC OFF light was blinking constantly. Well, after replacing the sensors, the OFF light no longer blinks. A small success that I'm happy about. Hopefully that means I did the right thing.

My current situation: While my OFF light no longer blinks, the system still won't go into HI or LO. When I hit the switch, the green indicator light blinks and will keep blinking unless I cancel it and select neutral again. My doors are all closed and the door switches all work so it's not my doors. I have not adjusted the new sensors to be zero yet either. I just took them.out of the box and installed them. The way the truck sits doesn't seem to have changed at all so it hasn't self adjusted to the new readings which I believe it should do because the new height sensors are not even close to the same reading. They're an inch different in reading.

When I have techstream open to view live data, I'm getting good readings from all of the height sensors. But, all of the pressures are reading 0's across the board. I would think there has to be some pressure in the system or else I'd be sitting stuck in the low position, right? Also, I feel like the comfort control is actually working now. It could be in my head, but it definitely makes a difference on my butt-meter.

My question now is, should I be looking at possibly the system's pressure sensors? Or do I need to adjust the height sensors first to get them reading the same number?

I may have missed this information in some of my reading but you'll have to take it easy on me. There's a TON of information to read through. I read through the threads linked above, but I couldn't seem to find the information I'm looking for.

I was hoping to get the system bled and refilled bit I if the thing won't go into HI or LO, I don't want to chance bleeding the system, just for it to be stuck bottomed out.

I'll try to attach a pic of my readings on techstream and maybe somebody more familiar with the normal readings can see if something doesn't add up.

View attachment 2734289

Seems like you are making very good progress! You have made Techstream work and now you can see into the Electronic Control Unit (ECU) which controls the Active Height Control (AHC) and Toyota Electronic Modulated Suspension (TEMS) systems and also you can see various other items of information.

Good that you have posted the Techstream screenshot. That helps a lot because we can see the details you can see and can move forward

Physical information also is important.

The details requested by @ramangain will help.

In addition, I would request the actual hub-to-fender distances at each of the four wheels, measured with a tape-measure under the same conditions for any AHC test work -- vehicle on a level surface, steering straight ahead, no persons or other loads in the vehicle. These physical measurements are just as important as anything on Techstream. Among other things, they indicate how close to cross-level the vehicle may or may not be at the front. This helps in interpreting the Height Control Sensor readings and diagnosing problems.

Cross-levelling is vital to setting up the system properly. It is done only with the front torsion bar adjusters (and not the Sensor adjusters) in accordance with the attachment below.

It is good practice to clear the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) which is showing on Techstream screenshot at the “Number of Trouble Codes” line. Then start up the vehicle and Techstream again. The point here is that if the DTC is historical then you want that deleted and out of the way because it will cause confusion. On start-up, any current DTC’s will show again and then you know that you are dealing with current information. As mentioned by @ramangain, it is important to know what current DTC’s are showing. The DTC can be identified from the codes shown in the “DIAGNOSTICS” section of the Factory Service Manual (FSM) – see reference near the end of Post #7 in this thread.

There are several points of concerns showing on your screenshot.

Both voltages look low: Normally, “IG Power Source Voltage” would be higher than 12.3 volts. “+B Power Source” voltage usually will be a little different to the “IG” voltage but no way should it be so low at only 3 volts. Very strange results. Need to be sure about battery condition and that earthing is in good shape around the vehicle and that the engine was running at the moment the screenshot was taken. The “Oil Temperature Sensor” refers to the AHC Fluid temperature and shows as -22 degrees. This means either that the temperature sensors is disconnected or the engine is not running.

The “Steering Angle is a bit off-zero but worry about that much later, not now.

Then looking at the Height Control Sensor readings:

-0.0 inch Front Right (FR) Height Control Sensor reading

-1.3 inch Front Left (FL) Height Control Sensor reading

-0.2 inch Rear (RR) Height Control Sensor reading

Time for a long-winded explanation about these widely misunderstood readings ….

Large differences in Sensor readings (FR to FL and FL to RR in this case) mean that the ECU cannot resolve the very different and conflicting voltage signals being received from the Sensors. In such a case, the ECU cannot determine which Sensor is correct. The AHC system then is unable to set the vehicle height automatically, so AHC cannot work. Height Sensor position also is one of the inputs on which TEMS depends. Conflicting signals prevent TEMS from regulating adaptive damping. In these circumstances, the ECU will put the AHC/TEMS system into ‘fail safe’ mode.

What does ‘fail safe’ mode mean?

There are several such modes mentioned in the FSM.

For the ‘fail safe’ mode relevant to the Height Control Sensor circuits, returning to description in the FSM “DIAGNOSTICS” section for DTC’s C1711, C1712, C1713 at Page DI-224: “If trouble occurs in the height control sensor circuit, the height control is prohibited after the ECU has adjusted the height to the standard (fluid pressure correspond to the standard height)”.

The Japanese-to-English translation is not perfect! It means that in this mode, the ECU cannot resolve the conflicting signals, and that the AHC part of system is stopped after the vehicle has been returned to “N” height or at a height corresponding to the correct pressures at “N” height. The TEMS part of the system also is stopped and locked at damping mid-range, Step 8 of 16 Steps, and there is no active damping.

Unhelpfully, the FSM does not mention that the ONLY time DTC’s C1711, C1712, C1713 will be recorded by the ECU and seen on Techstream is when the signal sent by the Sensor is outside the specified voltage range under the heading “DTC Detecting Condition”. (As further background, the diagrams at Page DI-227, show the approximate actual voltage signals for “LO”, “N” and “HI” height settings which are within the range required by the ECU).

You have new Sensors, so how can there be a problem?

A DTC is not registered if a signal is within the required voltage range but is an incorrect voltage for the actual height of the vehicle. This can occur when

• the vehicle is not correctly cross-levelled and there are different heights side-to-side, or,
• the Sensors are worn or damaged (this can happen and not be visible), or,
• resistance due to poor connections at the Sensor or Harness reduce the voltage received by the ECU, or,
• one or more Sensors are incorrectly adjusted.

With or without a DTC, if there are conflicting signals received by the ECU from the Height Control Sensors, then the ECU will put the AHC/TEMS into 'fail safe' mode.

Reading the symptoms described while on the other side of the world and without seeing the vehicle means that it is a bit difficult to be sure – but I think your vehicle is in ‘fail safe’ mode. That is a reasonable diagnosis which fits the descriptions you have given.

You can test this by driving the vehicle (or have someone else drive) with Techstream connected and observe “Front Wheel Step” and “Rear Wheel Step” while the vehicle is in motion. If these remain at Damping Step 8 (of 16 Steps) while the vehicle is moving, that means that the active damping of TEMS is not working. That would support ‘fail safe’ mode. (It is normal to be at Step 8 when the vehicle is stationary).

What should be done next?

1. Cross-level front of the vehicle using torsion bar adjusters,
2. Decide whether to test the Height Control Sensors, Connectors and Harnesses electrically per FSM “DIAGNOSTICS” section, even though Sensors are new – if satisfied with condition, continue as below:
3. Use “Height Control Operation Test” (also called “Active Test”) as described at Page 6 of the second attachment (or some other means) to raise/lower the hub-to-fender heights to those desired (IH8MUD recommendation: Front 19.75 inches, Rear 20.5 inches) then switch OFF the engine,
4. With engine OFF but with Techstream connected and ONLY ignition ON, adjust all of the Height Control Sensors to read zero +/- 0.2 inches, with minimum possible difference between Sensors to release ‘fail safe’ mode. (At the Front Sensors the slider adjuster or the heim bolt can be used – but be aware that manipulating the heim bolt can be very fiddly. The Rear Sensor can be adjusted only by using the slider adjuster),
5. Test vehicle and AHC and TEMS operation, check for DTC’s via Techstream
6. When heights are correct, adjust AHC pressures using torsion bar adjusters at front, replacement springs if necessary at rear,
7. When AHC pressures are correct, check difference in graduations at AHC tank when height setting is at “LO” and at “HI”. A difference of14 graduations means ‘globes’ are near new; when the difference has fallen to 7 graduations, replace the ‘globes’. Note: AHC pressures tell nothing about ‘globe’ condition.

AGAIN BROADCASTING THE GOLDEN RULE: ALWAYS HAVE JACKSTANDS UNDER THE CHASSIS RAILS WHEN WORKING UNDER THE CAR ON THE AHC SYSTEM – and yes, this is shouted in bold capitals not to be offensive but for good reasons, cannot be repeated often enough. Accidents do happen. A hard barrier -- such as fixed, lockable stands secure at the chassis rails, certainly not jacks -- is a ‘must have’ to ensure that an unexpected to descent of the car body onto a human body is impossible.

 

[ramangain]

@IndroCruise , I hope to God you aren't finger-pecking these responses without a keyboard!