Questions for everyone about Inner Axle Seals (1 Viewer)

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Mar 30, 2014
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I'm trying to understand what kind of life to expect out of these seals, I replaced one less than 5k ago and I believe it has already failed again so I want to have a survey of sorts to find out how long peoples have lasted.

If you could please post:
-how long an inner axle seal lasts you on average - Miles/months
-What brand you use(Marlin, Toyota OEM, or Other - please explain)
-How many miles/Months since last changed an inner Axle seal
-What kind of driving/wheeling your 80 sees

And some other general questions I have are what's the longest you've driven on a knuckle filled with birf soup from a failed seal knowing that the knuckle has been somewhat contaminated? Did it have any consequences? and also could a particularly off-camber and high articulation spot cause gear oil to leak past a seal and introduce gear oil to the knuckle even if it hasn't failed under normal driving conditions? - I was stopped in an off camber spot with the front axle nearly fully articulated for about 5 minutes the angle was probably enough for the gear oil to move toward the outside of the housing, could this possibly cause a seal failure or allow gear oil past an otherwise functioning seal?

Thanks in advance.
 

Onur

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So what seals did you use? Did you do the work or farm it out? Is your axle housing bent or straight?
 
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So what seals did you use? Did you do the work or farm it out? Is your axle housing bent or straight?
The seal that I just saw leaking was one from Cruiser Outfitters, not an OEM toyota - although it did seem high quality. You're probably familiar with the ones they sell. I did the work myself and as far as I could tell my housing was/is straight. There is no way it would've been tweaked or bent before I bought the cruiser and since then I haven't done anything so serious as to bend it - at least I don't think so.

do your axles have a small worn out grove where the oil seal should be? I did but positioned my new seals in not quite all the way in.
I did see the marking you are talking about although mine wasn't really worn enough for me to call it a groove, I could definitely see the marked area the oil seal rubbed on the axle shaft though. When I replaced the one that is now leaking I just did it as a "while I'm here" replacement because I was there replacing a birf anyway(which was not shot just clicking bad enough where I thought I should change it rather than risk grenading it next time I went wheeling).

Did you have a problem where fully seated seals would leak? and did not seating them all the way fix the problem? I've done 2 axle seals at this point and always made sure to seat them fully.
Edit for clarification - The one leaking is one I replaced 5k ago bought from Cruiser Outfitters, about a week ago I just replaced the other side axle seal with an OEM Toyota because it was leaking(It was a marlin seal that was leaking)
 
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Ive only rebuilt my front knuckles once so im not the expert or anything but what I do know is that my worn out, clicking and beat up birfs had that oil seal mark/gouge/grove thing going on and I didnt feel confident it would properly seal. So I just installed the new seal so that it would sit on a different spot. Very close like an 1/8'' or so from the grove. So far 6 months later its holding up ok. I also made sure to grease up the new seal too, just because.
 
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Ive only rebuilt my front knuckles once so im not the expert or anything but what I do know is that my worn out, clicking and beat up birfs had that oil seal mark/gouge/grove thing going on and I didnt feel confident it would properly seal. So I just installed the new seal so that it would sit on a different spot. Very close like an 1/8'' or so from the grove. So far 6 months later its holding up ok. I also made sure to grease up the new seal too, just because.

Interesting, definitely something to consider. Thanks!
 

93yotasr5

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I debut my axles the first time using marlin seals.roughly 6k miles later it failed on the drivers side. I haw since replaced both sides with Toyota seals and have gone almost 7k with 0 issues.
 

1973Guppie

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first figure out what seals you actually used so people can give you feedback, it sounds like you used marlin seals which have a bad reputation in the 80 crowd for not working well. I personally installed marlins and my axle started leaking a few k after install. I just redid my whole front end and used OEM seals and outboarded them about 1/8 inch to they ride on a different spot. I also filled the groove in my axles with jb weld and smoothed it down with very fine sandpaper. So far so good.
 
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Use OEM seals. Also make sure you diff breather line is not clogged. It would be better just to buy 1/4 inch fuel line and run it to the engine bay for water crossings and general peiece of mind. A clogged breather can cause diff fluid to blow out.
 
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1. the seal will go bad if you uninstall in dry you meed to grease seal lips and the o-spring as a must .
2. the seal will go bad if CV Axle in the area not smooth, have axle scratches etc.
3. defected parts
 
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The ones I used werent Marlin I know the difference, it wasnt Marlin or Toyota but it was an OEM style seal that seemed to be of good quality but I'll take a pic once I pull it. Heres a pic off CruiserOutfitters site of the ones I ordered #FA35010 It's hard to tell if they have Toyota in that pic or the ones I received - My breathers are already ran to the bay so dont think thats a problem although I'll check theyre clear of any obstructions. I have 3 Toyota OEM left which I purchased from the dealership so I will use one of them and go from there.

image.jpg
 
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I have Marlin Crawler inner axle seals on the front, but I'm not happy with them. Next time I pull the front hubs (soon, since the bearings all need re-packing) I might replace the axle shafts if they have too much of a groove. The other problem (remember when I last did a full front rebuild about 5 yrs ago) is that whoever had pulled inner axle seals before I got the vehicle left score marks on the seal seats and while I tried to work those down I'm suspicious if the Marlin seals are/were good enough to take care of them.

I'm getting a wits-end seal over-drive tool so may just go back to factory inner seals. New axle shafts aren't expensive and they will last a very long time. Luckily almost all front driveline stuff is still available apart from the actual axle housing

For a while now I've had a niggly suspicion that the front axle housing itself may be slightly bent but it's probably impossible to get a new one for a pre-8/92 build. Hmmm looks like brakes and front driveline are my winter project for the colder months until aussie spring from Sep onwards.
 
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May 19, 2017
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I found my driver side seal to have gone bad within the last week it seems and this is like the 3rd or 4th seal I have installed. Last seal I installed was a trail gear seal and I did it before winter and drive roughy 300 miles a week. I have trail gear axles as well. I'm starting to think my housing is bent since I've used OEM and aftermarket seals but when I used OEM my axle had a groove. So I guess I'll try OEM this time and see how long it last
 
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I found my driver side seal to have gone bad within the last week it seems and this is like the 3rd or 4th seal I have installed. Last seal I installed was a trail gear seal and I did it before winter and drive roughy 300 miles a week. I have trail gear axles as well. I'm starting to think my housing is bent since I've used OEM and aftermarket seals but when I used OEM my axle had a groove. So I guess I'll try OEM this time and see how long it last

I have done lots of Knuckles rebuilds, and have had issues only with not using OEM, and another thing @NLXTACY has a cool tool to install the seals . I always tell people to use OEM
 
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As an aside, how does someone tell if the front axle housing is bent/deformed enough that the axle shafts won't run centrally through inner axle seals? I guess the axle shafts themselves can get bent too, if the vehicle is abused enough.
 
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They'd be very much like Terrain Tamer kits sold by Don Kyatt's here in Australia - usually only include genuine bearings and seals or equiv to OEM in quality seals.
 

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