The used head should be the same as your '77 head, flat(ish). There was no '73 to '74 2F, btw. On a header like this, flatness is going to be temperature dependent. The hot-rolled-steel has many stresses, and engine temperature is going to affect it. Milling one side will also result in a bit of stress relief, making it kinda potato-chipped. I have an intake manifold from a '72, and there was a bit of galling under the washer, or nut, which has made it hard to measure. Counter-boring / spot-facing, for a bolt head, is common practice in machine shops. If your intake manifold isn't flat, then have them restore the surface opposite the manifolds' gasket, and match it to the surface on the header. But, if the intake manifold's bolt-surface is good (I have two 2F intakes that are almost exactly 10mm) then have them simply create stepped washers (the side on the intake is thicker to match the thicker header), use plenty of anti-seize to keep the nuts from turning the stepped washer during assembly. Or, just have them adjust the header's thickness to match the intake manifold. As a former machinist, I would cringe at having to bolt a header to a milling table to mill the surface on the gasket side, or even to machine thru ceramic coating to create the spot-face / counter-bore, particularly while maintaining vertical clearance from the exhaust tubes, plus it would take me hours to do, rather than minutes to create a few washers from easier to machine materials.
I'm assuming that the JTO header flange is 7/16" thick. Am I wrong? My Aussie Performance header is 10mm, but it tucks the exhaust down under the skid plate, so I skipped the post-purchase manufacturing.