macdaddy59
SILVER Star
Could you please give the measurement from the side and the top to center of the housing for reference. I need to do this to mine.
Builds Putting the rust demon at bay (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter archie73
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- #302
Other progress was in the form of cutting, welding and grinding and welding and grinding and yet there is still more to go.
The fenders are getting close to ready for a bondo skim coat. The turn signal holes are filled and the old steering box opening has been deleted.
This brace surprised me: the outer edge was rotten, but just a few inches up the brace it still had good factory paint on the brace.
Like I said, I’ve deleted the turn signal on the fender. So I have a freebie for anyone patching their fenders. I know mine rotted out in my original fenders. This one is in good shape, the other one was toast. Pay the shipping and I’ll send it to you.
This brace surprised me: the outer edge was rotten, but just a few inches up the brace it still had good factory paint on the brace.
Like I said, I’ve deleted the turn signal on the fender. So I have a freebie for anyone patching their fenders. I know mine rotted out in my original fenders. This one is in good shape, the other one was toast. Pay the shipping and I’ll send it to you.
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Awesome Progress! Still shopping a welder so I can really create some problems for myself!
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- #304
Here you go. Basically it sits in the rear drivers side of the sump. The white ring isn’t centered on the pump, so don’t judge by that.
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- #305
My home unit is a 110v Lincoln mig and it’s good for sheet metal and light duty stuff. I have access to a 220 Miller mig at work and it’s the tool for stuff like bumpers and such. Work also has a tig, but I haven’t learned to use it, yet...
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- #306
Its been about 15-20 years since i've done some welding. I really need a new drivers floor board, Rear of the truck needs some help since one of the spare tire holding hinges isn't attached to anything anymore
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- #308
Covid is currently swirling around us, so we are staying home more than usual during this troubling time- Thankfully, we remain untouched. Progress continues on the hump instead of normal activities. Welding, grinding, welding and grinding- rinse and repeat...
While I am making progress, I grow tired of the repeated theme and so I decided to do some mock up with the fenders and soft doors. This turned out to boost moral. Every time I add something that gets it closer to looking like a cruiser again, I feel better about my progress. Plus these are really easy to remove.
I’ve got a question for other Aqualu owners-
The leading edge of the aluminum floor overlaps the steel in this picture- what are people filling the with gap with?
I’m planning to use the Silkaflex in between the layers and I’ll be redoing the cowl seams with SEM 2 part caulking. I have both of those to fill the void with if it advisable. In addition, I’m planning to prime paint the mating surfaces, followed by assembling the tub and cowl before sending it out for paint. While in paint, the aluminum portion of the tub will receive (color matched) raptor liner, but not the steel cowl. This will further make the difference noticeable. So This needs to be a durable filler that can fill 1/2” gap and be flexible. Perhaps this is asking to much and I should invest in Floor mats, but I’d rather be able fill the gap to keep it clean of mud.
The leading edge of the aluminum floor overlaps the steel in this picture- what are people filling the with gap with?
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- #309
Ok, this thing is kicking my ass. First I cut to much off on the drivers side or made poor patch panels. Then I had to move the shifter holes- should of just made a whole new piece for that, instead I pieced together to much old metal. This caused me to chase thin metal that disappeared when touched with the mig. And then there was this side, because I have an Aqualu tub, I had to flatten this edge,
It’s been a learning expierence...
This pic was a moral booster, just seeing a few pieces put back together was nice.
This is where I left it today. Once again the shift boots liftemy moral. Also, I wanted the holes drilled and the nuts welded on before going any further.
Still need to drill holes for the tunnel/tub, but that’s waiting for some nutcerts. Also I ordered a generic shifter knob for the transfer case- I couldn’t stomach ~$40 for the stock one. It’ll be black and low key.
The shifter boots are a stock Toyota dust cover for the transfer from CCOT and a PRP for an UTV for the Sm465. Had to make a trim ring for the PRP unit but that was easy and enjoyable.
Still need to drill holes for the tunnel/tub, but that’s waiting for some nutcerts. Also I ordered a generic shifter knob for the transfer case- I couldn’t stomach ~$40 for the stock one. It’ll be black and low key.
Your going to bedline the inside only or outside too?
Are you going to use alu nutserts?
Keep in mind that nutserts start to turn when the bolts get stuck. This makes removing the tunnel difficult in the future.
Keep in mind that nutserts start to turn when the bolts get stuck. This makes removing the tunnel difficult in the future.
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- #312
My plan is to bedline the inside of the aluminum portion of the tub. I'm avoiding the steel for fear of the rust being encapsulated. I considered Lizard Skin, because of the reported benefits, but I think I'm passing on it. I never run the top so the heat blocking potential (in Idaho) is lost on me. The noise reduction I need topless is in the form of wind noise- I can hear the hum of the tires, but engine/transmission noise are moderate in comparison.
Did you do both sides?
Do you think it was worth it in hindsight?
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- #313
I was going to use stainless steel nutserts, I thought I had read these were the desired material in aluminum.
You might consider aluminium nutserts with stainless bolts. If you can weld aluminium, tack the nutserts to the floor that way they won’t spin when the bolts get stuck.
I did lizard skin on the underside but not in the wheel wells. The lizard skin is somewhat fragile so I didn't think it would hold up in the wheel wells. Raptor is on the inside and on the underside of the wheel wells, The lizard skin does some to help some with heat transfer. The best thing I did was the interior firewall Insulation I installed. I would recommend doing the firewall Insulation before putting the interior back together. My firewall gets really hot. Not fun having hot feet while wheeling in the desert. The Raptor is ok and makes the inside of the tub look really nice. Not as tough as linex or rhino liner though.
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- #316
Makes sense and I have tig at work I need to learn how to use. My thought was that while aluminum and stainless will have a reaction, but if I use a stainless nutcert and bolt the threads are less likely to corrode and put a twisting load on the nutcert. Where as a aluminum nutcert is more likely seize a stainless bolt and twist out. My experience with antiseize isn't great (better than nothing though).
We use antiseize on 72mm bolts, with 250 metric tons of preload, in offshore situations and they look horrible but come loose after 3 years with no drama. We had to loosen 72mm bolts with far less load, and only 2 months in, that sounded like someone was firing a canon. Just use the good stuff. The advantage of using the same material for the nutserts as what they are mounted to is that you can weld them they start spinning. These bolts don’t need a lot of preload, it’s only to hold two parts together from leaking no structural function.
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I tapped the floor holes I drilled. Held down the tunnel fine with 6x1.0 bolts. I was just careful not to overtighten them. I think the floor is 3/16 thick.
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- #319
This likely my route the more I think about it. Nutcerts sounded like a good solution at first, but this discussion has swayed me away from them.
I need most of all the some done on mine! Good luck and if anyone wants to help with mine, I don't pay well, don't have a heated garage, but I work for a brewery so lots of free beer!
