Also I talked to Diesel Dan and he made the valid point that I could just bolt the Tuffy down on top, because hopefully I don't every have to get in the fuse box, unless I am upgrading. And I can always leave a screw driver or a wrench in the Tuffy so I can lift it up. But I would have a super secret place. A lot to think about.
Yeah, I hardly ever blow fuses in my trucks - but if I did, I personally wouldn't want to have to unbolt my Tuffy to check or change a fuse. I'm lazy that way though.
Just a little bit of an update and a question. I hopefully will have my carb leaving the house Tuesday to Mark. In 10 days I am on break and hopefully wrenching again. However, I have a feeling that there might be some dead time while parts are coming in, so if anyone needs help on their projects let me know because I would be more than happy to help, because it gives me a chance to learn something new.
My question is one I am pretty sure I know the answer to. Can I swap on a different set of Asian hubs from a IFS 4Runner, solid axle pick-up, or another Toyota? Mine are just pretty beat up and would like to replace. I think the answer is yes.
Wish I had my 40 in NM (really wish we were living there permanently already!) because I'm going to be pulling the tranny and transfer case soon and could use some help. All my boys are moved away from home now.
My question is one I am pretty sure I know the answer to. Can I swap on a different set of Asian hubs from a IFS 4Runner, solid axle pick-up, or another Toyota? Mine are just pretty beat up and would like to replace. I think the answer is yes.
My question is one I am pretty sure I know the answer to. Can I swap on a different set of Asian hubs from a IFS 4Runner, solid axle pick-up, or another Toyota? Mine are just pretty beat up and would like to replace. I think the answer is yes.
As I recall you swapped in mini-truck/FJ60 birfields. So, FJ60 and solid axle mini-truck AISIN hubs will work. They are 30 splined. The IFS hubs are 26 splined and the dishing is different. You can convert them to 30 spline using the gear from Bobby Long (Longfields).
As I recall you swapped in mini-truck/FJ60 birfields. So, FJ60 and solid axle mini-truck AISIN hubs will work. They are 30 splined. The IFS hubs are 26 splined and the dishing is different. You can convert them to 30 spline using the gear from Bobby Long (Longfields).
I know the Aisin hubs are the best solution here but I have an alternative that might work. When I first bought my 60 I didn't know squat about locking hubs, Land Cruisers and plenty of other things. The hubs had some obvious leaking/grease that was oozing out of them so I decided I need to replace the hubs and bought a set of compatible Warn hubs. I never installed them and eventually resealed the axles and knuckles and put new gaskets on the Aisin hubs. So I still have this new in box set of Warn hubs. If you're using mini-truck/FJ60 birfields, then these might work for you if you want something that's a little better than what you have until you get the best quality Aisin.
You can use IFS hubs. You have to reuse the 30 spline bit from your hubs, but everything else should remain. The body and the dials are the only bits that can look beat up, so you are good to go (other than having the horror of mini truck dials on a cruiser!).
Thanks Marc, but I am going to hold because my Aisins were just rebuilt and they only have some rock rash on them. They are currently not leaking and work just fine.
You can use IFS hubs. You have to reuse the 30 spline bit from your hubs, but everything else should remain. The body and the dials are the only bits that can look beat up, so you are good to go (other than having the horror of mini truck dials on a cruiser!).
I having doing some work on my work getting it cleaned up and I have discovered that the carb accelerator boot is coming apart. Could that be the cause of my problems?
I got my 40 running again. I may not have to send out the carb after all. After getting everything hooked up I got it started, and it idled not too bad. So tomorrow morning it goes to the mechanic to get a vacuum test done and just a general check up. However, because the vehicle has sat for over a month I worry that I may have a fuel problem and all the crude has just settled to the bottom of the tank and not causing a problem right now. I will take a look at the fuel filter tomorrow to check out that possibility.
Once I make sure I am in the clear, some cool stuff is going to happen to the forty.
Carb issues continue to plague my 40. Today it started just fine and my dad and I took it for a drive. All started fine until about 15 minutes into the drive. When I started to lose power again in first. With the gas pedal to the floor it would take about 45 seconds to get the car to pick up any speed. It would pick up power in a sudden lurch and would be fine and you could shift up no problem. This went on for about ten minutes until it would no longer even pick up speed. We limped home at about 3mph. Once home we opened the hood and looked at the carb. It seemed when ever we would give it gas it would respond no problem. However, it idled poorly and it soon died.
Two days before all of this happened Ali was over at the house and we made a quick run to Lowes and we were having the same problems. When it got the vehicle home we did a quick vacuum leak test with WD-40 and it appeared that there was a leak at the base of the carb.
Today my dad are doing the vacuum leak test once again. We also have a vacuum gage to get some solid numbers. We are also plugging up more of the smog junk. And we have some carb cleaner that we are going to give a shot. I might check the fuel filter as well just to rule that out.
Small update, I used some of the carb cleaner and that did help clean up the inside. I have a feeling that it is my fuel filter. One I could check this to run the vehicle till it starts to lose power and then check how much fuel is in the carb?
Tomorrow I fill be swapping in a new fuel filter. Also should I be looking at the pump?
My last major problem with my 60 that had similar symptoms was a vacuum leak in the timing advance diaphragm. The diaphragm was split and wouldn't hold the vacuum. The time before that it was a vacuum leak underneath the carb (bad gasket) as well as the intake manifold gasket leaking (major vacuum leak). Just make sure you've checked all those spots. Anything that is vacuum actuated could be a culprit. Draw a vacuum on the item with your mouth and see if it will hold.
My last major problem with my 60 that had similar symptoms was a vacuum leak in the timing advance diaphragm. The diaphragm was split and wouldn't hold the vacuum. The time before that it was a vacuum leak underneath the carb (bad gasket) as well as the intake manifold gasket leaking (major vacuum leak). Just make sure you've checked all those spots. Anything that is vacuum actuated could be a culprit. Draw a vacuum on the item with your mouth and see if it will hold.
