Put pictures of the wheels you have in yours 80 series

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I love seeing nice shoes on our 80s so for selfish reasons, here's a list of solid vendors who produce hub-centric wheels for our rigs in your typical 17x8-9" ranges with a bit more poke than factory wheels.





Some of my favorites from the above vendors:

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If you want ultimate strength, lightness and quality, Forgeline recently released their TR11s USA-made from the same forged materials as they do for their motorsport clients:

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WalkerEvans true bead locks 17 x 8.5 3.75 BS wrapped with 39-12.50-17 Mud Hogs
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love those beadlocks, they look sharp! Not sure about the TEQ badge on the side fender tho...:cool:
Thanks!
I go back and fourth with the stickers it was like that when I got it. My luck right now is all the paint will come off with umm lol so they stay.
 
can't go wrong w/ Raceline!
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Dude, the steelies are SOOOOO heavy. Safe to assume it doesn’t bother you? Toyota claims 22 pounds for the stock alloys (born out by my scale at tire changes) but those 17 inch steelies are 35 with some pushing 46 pounds. Safe to assume it doesn’t bother you but it blew my mind when I looked into it. they do look good though…
 
Dude, the steelies are SOOOOO heavy. Safe to assume it doesn’t bother you? Toyota claims 22 pounds for the stock alloys (born out by my scale at tire changes) but those 17 inch steelies are 35 with some pushing 46 pounds. Safe to assume it doesn’t bother you but it blew my mind when I looked into it. they do look good though…
with my LS swap, not an issue one bit!
 
I have some steel rims mated to 35"*12.5 R17 Toyo M/T:
Still trying to figure out a solution that would allow me to get rid of the spacers.

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Why not just run without?

If those are FJC or taco rims should be 5.5” BS and minimal rubbing except when stuffed in rear or full lock up front and that part is doubtful in 35s.

I have a set of 16” OE alloys if you want to entertain as well.
 
Why not just run without?

If those are FJC or taco rims should be 5.5” BS and minimal rubbing except when stuffed in rear or full lock up front and that part is doubtful in 35s.

I have a set of 16” OE alloys if you want to entertain as well.
Once things are running, I will run them without spacers for a while, the frame is nicely painted, so I should be able to see where I rub :D
 
Once things are running, I will run them without spacers for a while, the frame is nicely painted, so I should be able to see where I rub :D

Rear wheel well. Rear of arch ;)
Rattle cans are cheap!
 
Would like to see if anyone run TE37 XT in 17". Easier to find tires in 17 than 16
 
I recently picked up this cruiser with Level 8 "Punch" wheels already on it. I'm having a hard time deciding whether to keep them (I kinda like the look!) or do something different. I really like Method MR701 but I think I read they require the center to be bored out for 80 series?

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