Puma 12V Compressor

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I experienced a fuse/compressor failure that was set up by tools and because the Maxi fuse holder was butt spliced we were of of luck unless we cut the wiring. Now the owner needs to carry a spare in the event it happens again. The failure was from installation not letting the head pressure bleed off. In that case if a breaker was used it would of tripped and could of been reset once the head pressure was reduced and all would of been good.

If one is experiencing breaker failure I can only guess its from low quality product, having never had a problem with quality Blue Sea type stuff in the past.
 
I prefer and run factory type fuses, easy to wire around. Totally agree that the maxi fuse isn't bleeding edge tech, but are cheap, effective and would always reccammend carrying a spare fuse for them, easy to get, small, etc?

On breakers, this type:
breaker_1.webp


Generic pic, no brand implied. I haven't done any comparative testing to determine the quality between brands, or care to, but the ones in question were "name brands". Have seen two where the reset button is missing, one where the input terminal was broken off, hanging and one that had no continuity (tripped?) pushing the reset had zero result (internally broken?). Didn't do any postmortem examination on them, were pitched and replaced by fuses.

This type:
breaker_2.webp


Again generic pic, no brand implied. Have seen lots of this type fail over the years, both factory and aftermarket. Mostly when mounted under the hood or other areas subject to moisture. When taken apart, a few are broken (vibration maybe?) the majority are a rusted/corroded mess inside, apparently not well sealed, subject to moisture intrusion.

Have done a ton of automotive wiring work, so likely see more of this than most. Will agree that fuses can and do fail, cracks from vibration, corrosion, etc. But there isn't a logical argument that ends with a relatively complex mechanical breaker being more reliable than a simple static fuse. I have installed my fair share of breakers, if that is what people want that is what the get, they are techie, cool, doesn't make them more reliable.
 
Tools R Us said:
I prefer and run factory type fuses, easy to wire around. Totally agree that the maxi fuse isn't bleeding edge tech, but are cheap, effective and would always reccammend carrying a spare fuse for them, easy to get, small, etc?

On breakers, this type:
View attachment 911828

Generic pic, no brand implied. I haven't done any comparative testing to determine the quality between brands, or care to, but the ones in question were "name brands". Have seen two where the reset button is missing, one where the input terminal was broken off, hanging and one that had no continuity (tripped?) pushing the reset had zero result (internally broken?). Didn't do any postmortem examination on them, were pitched and replaced by fuses.

This type:
View attachment 911831

Again generic pic, no brand implied. Have seen lots of this type fail over the years, both factory and aftermarket. Mostly when mounted under the hood or other areas subject to moisture. When taken apart, a few are broken (vibration maybe?) the majority are a rusted/corroded mess inside, apparently not well sealed, subject to moisture intrusion.

Have done a ton of automotive wiring work, so likely see more of this than most. Will agree that fuses can and do fail, cracks from vibration, corrosion, etc. But there isn't a logical argument that ends with a relatively complex mechanical breaker being more reliable than a simple static fuse. I have installed my fair share of breakers, if that is what people want that is what the get, they are techie, cool, doesn't make them more reliable.
Click to expand...



Do you have an example of the type of fuse you'd use for a Puma?
 
When I installed my ExtremeAir in my '40, I used onboard air.com for all the bits and the air tank.
 
I'd like to bring this up again. Has anybody wired their Puma, so you can turn it on and off from the dash, as apposed flipping the switch on the unit. My compressor is mounted in the back of my 55 and would like to just turn it on from up front. Any ideas?
 
Phil, those mounts look tempting. The only reason i have't jumped at one is i'm "thinking" i want to split my unit (if possible) and put the tank under the truck and put the compressor in the truck.
 
concretejungle said:
Phil, those mounts look tempting. The only reason i have't jumped at one is i'm "thinking" i want to split my unit (if possible) and put the tank under the truck and put the compressor in the truck.
Click to expand...

By divorcing the tank you only gain 6" max in vertical space and open yourself up to problems on a proven set up. Im not saying buy my mount more dont mess with a solid set up. With all the PUMA s sold I have only heard of one issue, it was local and easily repaired. By far the best Chinese junk I have ever purchased.

But if you change you mind :idea: you are only a couple clicks away:grinpimp:
 
Not sure what's happened to mine as it's worked flawlessly for the last couple years. Finished a recent wheeling trip and stopped to air up, plugged my power leads in and turn the power switch on....and nothing.
I could hear a faint buzzing or something, but that's it. There is power to the plug in -leads, as this is all wired into the same junction point as my inverter which was working. The leads did get warm to the touch, which is normal during the time I've had it.
I'm not the greatest electrician the worst electrician ever, so any easy banana steps to internet deduce what might have happened would be greatly appreciated.
I'll post some mounting pictures and greater detail when I get home. or I could post some now...dug up from way earlier in this thread.
The red/white wires run from the Puma junction box to the black connection clips, and then from there feed into my Solar Panels charge controller, which is fed from a junction point up behind my Inverter.
Usual process is connect the clips, turn on the compressor, idle up the revs as the truck is running and go about my business.

puma 1.webp


P1020341.webp
 
Last edited:
Careful before clipping the puma up, my on-off lever always ends up being on after riding in the back of my truck for some reason so I need to remember to check it bvefore hooking up the battery otherwise sparks fly!

Did notice on trucks with manual idle pull for higher idle while airing up helps.
 
How many people are running these loose? Or at least not hardwired. I see a couple posts around #111 but nothing long-term. Any problems with this configuration? It looks like the compressors used to come with alligator clips but don't any more? Correct?

I have been really looking at a Viair 400P(-Auto) but the continuous duty cycle and price of this are very tempting. I don't want to dedicate space to mount the compressor or run permanent wiring to the rear of LC, so can this be run like a Viair? It is a few pounds heavier and larger, but that isn't too big of a deal.
 
I run mine loose. Run some battery clamps and just let her go. No issues at all.
I do have the rear mounts in the garage, just haven't had time to throw them on yet.
 
Spend the $ to hardwire it. Literally took me about 2 hours to get it all buttoned up (including mounting the compressor).
 
ericbirk said:
I run mine loose. Run some battery clamps and just let her go. No issues at all.
I do have the rear mounts in the garage, just haven't had time to throw them on yet.
Click to expand...
Thank you! Did it come with the clamps or did you have to source those separate. It looks like in Post #1 that they came with it, but that is the only place I can see that it looks that way.

Jalop80 said:
Spend the $ to hardwire it. Literally took me about 2 hours to get it all buttoned up (including mounting the compressor).
Click to expand...
There are 2 main reasons I don't want to hard mount it in the back (and others for under the hood), first, I use the back for sleeping when camping by myself or with my kids (wife wants at least a tent) and don't want to give up the space, and second, I use my 3rd row seats sometimes and don't want another thing to pull out (beyond the easy to remove platform). I would also need to modify the platform to fit or mount to it which isn't an option I like. Beyond that I also don't like to leave things in the back of my truck. It is a daily driver and I leave it at a park and ride so I don't want to have any low hanging fruit or obviously valuable things in it which would give thieves incentive. Portable just makes a lot more sense for me.
 
ericbirk said:
It didn't come with the clamps i just bought a set of booster cables and an online splice kit. Works great!
Click to expand...

I did more less the same since I have more than one vehicle where is can be used ..
 
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