Puma 12V Compressor
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How many of you are running tools on this? My VIAIR medium duty with tank is pretty slow at re-filling the tank. At best, I can get 5 lugs off before needing to wait a few minutes for pressure to get back above 100.
Using a 3/8 IR gun if you just break all your lugs loose first then you can go back and remove them all with out waiting. I also use a HFT spot sand blaster for sand blasting 2" round glass lens.
I apologize for bringing up a super old never ending thread but i had a couple questions regarding wiring up my Puma over the rear wheel well
With this be my first attempt at any sort of wiring I wanted too see if I was on the right track, I could obviously pay someone to do this for me but part of owning this rig is have fun and learn form it. So any advice would be greatly appreciated
I thinking about running these cables
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OV7I6E/?tag=ihco-20
with these reducers/Splicers to line up the factory Puma wiring and the warn cable
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Blackbur...cer-10-Piece-per-Case-ASR1114-B2-10/202209263
and some heat string tubing for insulation
http://www.waytekwire.com/products/1381/Tubing/
Then just follow the existing factory taillight wiring and connect to the battery
I wanted to keep the quick disconnect inside the rear quarter panel just to keep any spying eyes thinking it's more hard wired that it is, I know if someone wants to steal it they will but keeping the quick disconnect hidden might make it just a little bit more difficult.
The only thing I think i'm missing would be a fuse, I'd like to try and inline one if that makes sense or possibly adding an auxiliary fuse box that i can add too later
Thanks for you help
Jeff
With this be my first attempt at any sort of wiring I wanted too see if I was on the right track, I could obviously pay someone to do this for me but part of owning this rig is have fun and learn form it. So any advice would be greatly appreciated
I thinking about running these cables
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OV7I6E/?tag=ihco-20
with these reducers/Splicers to line up the factory Puma wiring and the warn cable
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Blackbur...cer-10-Piece-per-Case-ASR1114-B2-10/202209263
and some heat string tubing for insulation
http://www.waytekwire.com/products/1381/Tubing/
Then just follow the existing factory taillight wiring and connect to the battery
I wanted to keep the quick disconnect inside the rear quarter panel just to keep any spying eyes thinking it's more hard wired that it is, I know if someone wants to steal it they will but keeping the quick disconnect hidden might make it just a little bit more difficult.
The only thing I think i'm missing would be a fuse, I'd like to try and inline one if that makes sense or possibly adding an auxiliary fuse box that i can add too later
Thanks for you help
Jeff
What size wire is used with the Warn link above?
Phil. It's 6 guage.
I read through the thread and sounds like 4 might be a better option but it seemed to go back and forth a bit.
I read through the thread and sounds like 4 might be a better option but it seemed to go back and forth a bit.
Will #6 work fine, yes. Would #4 be better, yes.
The Warn kit seems pricey to me for #6 (read Im cheap). If you have no means to making your own it could be consider a value. If you do have resources available consider looking at jumper cables for a wire source.
The Warn kit seems pricey to me for #6 (read Im cheap)
. If you have no means to making your own it could be consider a value. If you do have resources available consider looking at jumper cables for a wire source.
Thanks Phil.
I looked into making a couple quick disconnects with jumper cable tails but might be a bit over my head with the soldering and crimping.
I looked into making a couple quick disconnects with jumper cable tails but might be a bit over my head with the soldering and crimping.
Blue77FJ40
SILVER Star
Nonsense. Making your own cables couldn't be easier. Select your cable, disconnects, silver solder, propane torch, cable lugs and go. Once you've determined the cable lengths,
• prep the ends by removing the insulation to the extent that the insulation trimmed end fits into the cable lug or disconnect end with a bit of copper showing above the end,
• add your length of shrink tubing,
• place the lug/disconnect in a vice with the open end up,
• place the trimmed cable into the lug/disconnect and keep it positioned there
• heat the lug/disconnect with the propane torch (not the cable), holding the silver solder against exposed cable at the top of the lug, letting the solder flow until the lug is filled.
• let the lug cool and move the shrink tubing in place and heat with heat gun/match/torch held a distance away.Done.
I used a small Anderson SB50 at the unit, and a larger SB175 quick disconnect at the front of the vehicle as shown in post 143 of this thread. The front is for the compressor and for jumper cables.
• prep the ends by removing the insulation to the extent that the insulation trimmed end fits into the cable lug or disconnect end with a bit of copper showing above the end,
• add your length of shrink tubing,
• place the lug/disconnect in a vice with the open end up,
• place the trimmed cable into the lug/disconnect and keep it positioned there
• heat the lug/disconnect with the propane torch (not the cable), holding the silver solder against exposed cable at the top of the lug, letting the solder flow until the lug is filled.
• let the lug cool and move the shrink tubing in place and heat with heat gun/match/torch held a distance away.Done.
I used a small Anderson SB50 at the unit, and a larger SB175 quick disconnect at the front of the vehicle as shown in post 143 of this thread. The front is for the compressor and for jumper cables.
Blue thanks for breaking that down.
After reading the thread a bit closer and your post 110 I spent some time on powerwerx and finding some disconnects and gonna go for it.
Were you able to eliminate the home depot reducer/splice by using the smaller SB50 with the wires coming directly from the compressor?
I appreciate all the help.
After reading the thread a bit closer and your post 110 I spent some time on powerwerx and finding some disconnects and gonna go for it.
Were you able to eliminate the home depot reducer/splice by using the smaller SB50 with the wires coming directly from the compressor?
I appreciate all the help.
Last edited:
Blue77FJ40
SILVER Star
As Phil says, the hammer crimper is another good way to go, but I like being able to remove the lug with heat if I need to.
If I understand your question, as I recall, the wire from the compressor fit into the SB50 connector on one side and I had some cheapo dual cable, probably 4 gauge, that fit both the other half of the SB50 and the SB175 connector.
If you use a heavier gauge cable, you may have to thin out the ends a bit to fit into the SB50 on the one side. Or, you could come up with another option. You don't really have to have a long cable going to wherever your connector will be, because the air hose will reach far enough. I don't have a shut off switch (I couldn't think how to rig one up), so I installed a pop off valve later that's not showing in those pics. Phil's idea, really.
I'd love some more pictures....
I used this crimper with good success.. http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html
I used this crimper with good success.. http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html
One last question before i tackle this tomorrow,
I'd like to add a fuse, not sure if it's a necessity but maybe just for peace of mind and from reading a few threads looks like I want to put it as close to the battery as possible and on the positive line
Wanted to see if this would be enough or if I need something more?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006T2N2LM/?tag=ihco-20
I'd like to add a fuse, not sure if it's a necessity but maybe just for peace of mind and from reading a few threads looks like I want to put it as close to the battery as possible and on the positive line
Wanted to see if this would be enough or if I need something more?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006T2N2LM/?tag=ihco-20
Consider a breaker over a fuse and yes as close to the power source as possible.
When you blow a fuse if you do not have a spare you are SOL
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...cs&field-keywords=12 volt breaker&tag=ihco-20
When you blow a fuse if you do not have a spare you are SOL
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...cs&field-keywords=12 volt breaker&tag=ihco-20
Thanks Phil
If a breaker fails you'll also be SOL if you don't have a spare.
Breaker failures are few in addition most breaker have surge protection and many with auto reset. Most common fuses you reach the limit and your done. But if your experience tell you different use fuses.
No, just pointing it out for arguments sake. A fuse holder plus fuse cost me a little less than a breaker. I had originally planned to use one of the new Blue Sea breakers but decided not to. I thought it would be better to have fuses just because I can buy them anywhere and carry a few extra of each type with me. I guess you could carry an extra breaker or two with you if needed. Seems expensive but as you said they shouldn't fail. Of course, fuses don't fail much either unless there is a reason for them to fail. If you pick the correct size fuse for the application it shouldn't need to be replaced. 
IDK pros and cons to both which is why I just broke down and picked something. I was kinda trying to prod you to give me a good reason to choose one over the other that I hadn't considered
IDK pros and cons to both which is why I just broke down and picked something. I was kinda trying to prod you to give me a good reason to choose one over the other that I hadn't considered
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Not necessarily, I don't carry a spare fuse, if it were to fail, would simply wire around it, hook direct to the battery long enough to airup, disconnect and repair later, same drill with a breaker.
It's easy to way over think this type of stuff, making it less reliable. Breakers are more complex, more prone to failure, have had several fail lately, for some reason more are using them lately, often in places, needs that are less than ideal useage, so more failures. In a simple compressor install the fuse isn't about the compressor (it's used attended, if there is a problem, turn it off) it's about protecting the rig from a potential high amp direct to battery wiring short (possibly unattended). In other words, there should never be a breaker clicking off, needing auto reset, etc, if wired correctly should be solid on, the only time it should fuse is in the event of a wiring short to ground, as in, never. A fuse will easily handle this and is more simple, making it more reliable.
