Pulled the trigger on Eaton lockers (2 Viewers)

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Zuk has some super polished 488s ready
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funny the timing on this thread, I was just chatting with a friend of mine around a campfire who is building up his 1st gen sequoia and was talking about ARB lockers. I told him I had one in the front but if I was to do it again I would go electric. He said he had been told the electric lockers were junk. I told him I disagree with that and why did all of the OEM car manufacturers use electric lockers instead of air? I was tired of dealign with air compressors, air lines leaking, blowing out seals, ect.!
 
When I had Zuk do my 200 lockers I was going to do ARBs originally, but he said he won't do them anymore, so I went with Eatons. With all the experience he has, I can't imagine doing anything else. I have ARBs on my 80 because that's what it came with, Slee did the work, so I imagine they're done about as well as possible. I have a gear oil leak out my ARB vent lines, so I am going to redo (and extend) my diff breathers and hope it helps (hoping it isn't a failed seal or internal line). The Eatons have been flawless. If I do another build, I'll go with Eatons.
 
funny the timing on this thread, I was just chatting with a friend of mine around a campfire who is building up his 1st gen sequoia and was talking about ARB lockers. I told him I had one in the front but if I was to do it again I would go electric. He said he had been told the electric lockers were junk. I told him I disagree with that and why did all of the OEM car manufacturers use electric lockers instead of air? I was tired of dealign with air compressors, air lines leaking, blowing out seals, ect.!
I ran ARBs since 2004 in my 91. They got used often and had very few problems once I regulated the pressure properly. I did have a hole in the rear air line after some exhaust work. Apparently a bit of slag burned through it. Repaired on the trail with a $. 50 coupler and 7 minutes.
I don't think electric lockers are crap, but the rear OEM locker collar is very coarse. It takes lots of wheel spin to get it to lock, where the front one is pretty fast. If you're jammed up in the rocks and need a bit of locker to get you going, it's very frustrating. Several times I had to rely on the front to pull me through while the rear sat there and blinked at me.
 
I ran ARBs since 2004 in my 91. They got used often and had very few problems once I regulated the pressure properly. I did have a hole in the rear air line after some exhaust work. Apparently a bit of slag burned through it. Repaired on the trail with a $. 50 coupler and 7 minutes.
I don't think electric lockers are crap, but the rear OEM locker collar is very coarse. It takes lots of wheel spin to get it to lock, where the front one is pretty fast. If you're jammed up in the rocks and need a bit of locker to get you going, it's very frustrating. Several times I had to rely on the front to pull me through while the rear sat there and blinked at me.
I hear what you are saying and respect that, but for most of what he is doing and what I do now, it's more overlanding and not as much hard core rock crawling.

I "think" I've worked out my leaks with the ARB but it's really sad to have a locker and not really want to use it because you are worried it will create a big job back home when you have to pull everything apart because it's blown a seal again. It doesn't happen often but the electric lockers, IMHO, are the way to go for all wheeling other than hard core rocks.
 
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So received these a couple of weeks ago and had not had a chance to install due to waiting on some parts. While I get everything put back together, here is a beauty shot and also including the install exchange with Zuk in case anyone (besides me) is interested.
 

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  • Zuk install of Eaton Lockers with superpolished 488s into 1994 Land Cruiser.pdf
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This doesn’t look right. Rear diff. I started to tighten in cross cross fashion. FSM calls for 54 ftlbs torque. I expected the FIPG to squirm out but not the gasket!…..thoughts? The front diff didn’t do that, but then again it calls for 18ftlbs
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This doesn’t look right. Rear diff. I started to tighten in cross cross fashion. FSM calls for 54 ftlbs torque. I expected the FIPG to squirm out but not the gasket!…..thoughts? The front diff didn’t do that, but then again it calls for 18ftlbs
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That's because you used BOTH FIPG and a cork gasket.

Use one or the other.

I believe they are designed for a paper gasket and that's it.

It will most likely leak because of that.

If it was mine I'd pull it apart and get rid of the gasket and just do FIPG.

Yes a lot of work but less than tearing it all apart after it's together.
 

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