Mine was MIG welded with my Miller 211. Not sure of the settings. We turned it up until it sounded like bacon frying...and it doesn't look as purdy as @lelandEOD but it won't fall apart.
PSA: Check your frames, gents (5 Viewers)
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Or anyone who mods their 80 and actually takes it off road into rough terrain regularly should just reinforce the area as part of their build process because we know that cracks will develop in the area around the steering box and track bar bracket.
Looks good to me. I don’t think mine looks that good under the paint. It’s just a scab anyway.
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We do two to three of these a month at the shop and anytime we have the steering box off we do it because it’s just a matter of time. Definitely a weak point…
I think adding some weld material to the existing bracket on the passenger side and also gussets bracing the cross tube to the inside of both frame rails should do because that bracket doesn’t hang down from the frame.
Wondering how others have approached welding reinforcement plates onto the 80 Series frame, any tips or tricks?
This is what an AI robot said (I picked 1/4" plate for the example), anyone want to comment?
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Vehicle frame rails are often HSLA steel (40,000–80,000 PSI yield strength), so use matching or compatible filler materials (e.g., ER70S-6 wire for MIG). Preheat may be needed for heat-treated (HT) frames (100,000+ PSI) to avoid cracking—typically 200–300°F. Best practices emphasize clean surfaces (remove paint/rust with grinding or solvent), proper fit-up (no gaps >1/16"), and stress relief (taper ends of plates, stagger seams). Use fillet welds: intermittent "skip" welds (2" weld, 2" gap) to control heat/distortion, or continuous for high-stress areas. Avoid welding across flanges or within 0.75" of edges to prevent cracks; grind welds flush and apply corrosion protection afterward.
Below are general recommended starting settings for common processes on 1/4" mild/HSLA steel (fillet joint in flat/horizontal position unless noted). These are aggregates from manufacturer guidelines and automotive upfitter standards—adjust ±10–20% based on your setup and test.
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Use short-circuit or spray transfer mode on most machines. Shielding gas: 75/25 Ar/CO2 (C25) at 20–30 CFH. Polarity: DCEP. For vertical positions, reduce speed/amps slightly.
Use low-hydrogen electrodes (e.g., E7018) for frames to minimize cracking. Polarity: DCEP. Drag technique for fillets; multiple passes if needed. For 1/4" steel, 1/8" electrode diameter is standard.
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Less common for structural frames due to slower speed, but useful for precision. Use 2% lanthanated tungsten (3/32–1/8" diameter, sharpened). Gas: pure argon at 15–20 CFH. AC not needed for steel—use DCEN. Filler: ER70S-2 rod (1/16–3/32").
This is what an AI robot said (I picked 1/4" plate for the example), anyone want to comment?
=====================================================================================================
Vehicle frame rails are often HSLA steel (40,000–80,000 PSI yield strength), so use matching or compatible filler materials (e.g., ER70S-6 wire for MIG). Preheat may be needed for heat-treated (HT) frames (100,000+ PSI) to avoid cracking—typically 200–300°F. Best practices emphasize clean surfaces (remove paint/rust with grinding or solvent), proper fit-up (no gaps >1/16"), and stress relief (taper ends of plates, stagger seams). Use fillet welds: intermittent "skip" welds (2" weld, 2" gap) to control heat/distortion, or continuous for high-stress areas. Avoid welding across flanges or within 0.75" of edges to prevent cracks; grind welds flush and apply corrosion protection afterward.
Below are general recommended starting settings for common processes on 1/4" mild/HSLA steel (fillet joint in flat/horizontal position unless noted). These are aggregates from manufacturer guidelines and automotive upfitter standards—adjust ±10–20% based on your setup and test.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MIG (GMAW) Settings
Use short-circuit or spray transfer mode on most machines. Shielding gas: 75/25 Ar/CO2 (C25) at 20–30 CFH. Polarity: DCEP. For vertical positions, reduce speed/amps slightly.
| Wire Diameter | Voltage (V) | Wire Feed Speed (IPM) | Amperage (A) | Travel Speed (IPM) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 0.030" (solid, ER70S-6) | 17–20 | 250–350 | 140–200 | 15–25 | Good for thinner frames; focus arc on base plate for penetration. |
| 0.035" (solid or flux-cored, E71T-1) | 18–23 | 300–450 | 190–250 | 20–30 | Preferred for vehicle frames; use flux-cored for no-gas outdoor work. Higher end for single-pass fillets. |
| 0.045" (flux-cored) | 22–26 | 200–300 | 220–300 | 18–28 | For thicker joints or windy conditions; Lincoln/Miller charts recommend for 1/4"+. |
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Stick (SMAW) Settings
Use low-hydrogen electrodes (e.g., E7018) for frames to minimize cracking. Polarity: DCEP. Drag technique for fillets; multiple passes if needed. For 1/4" steel, 1/8" electrode diameter is standard.
| Electrode Type/Diameter | Amperage (A) | Voltage (V) | Travel Speed (IPM) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| E6011 / 1/8" | 90–140 | 20–25 | 4–8 | Fast-freeze for poor fit-up; good penetration on rusty frames. |
| E7018 / 1/8" | 110–160 | 22–26 | 5–10 | Low-hydrogen for HSLA/HT frames; flat position preferred. Preheat for HT steel. Vertical: drop to 90–130A. |
| E7018 / 5/32" | 130–200 | 24–28 | 6–12 | For deeper penetration in single pass; use on clean metal. |
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TIG (GTAW) Settings
Less common for structural frames due to slower speed, but useful for precision. Use 2% lanthanated tungsten (3/32–1/8" diameter, sharpened). Gas: pure argon at 15–20 CFH. AC not needed for steel—use DCEN. Filler: ER70S-2 rod (1/16–3/32").
| Thickness | Amperage (A) | Gas Cup Size | Filler Rod Diameter | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1/4" (single pass) | 140–200 | #6–#8 | 3/32" | Start at lower end; add 50/50 Ar/helium mix for hotter arc if needed. Multiple passes for full strength. Vertical: pulse mode if available. |
Almost wishing I had the foresight to tackle this job when I had no engine the 80 just a few weeks ago. This thread makes me want to learn to TIG, though I'm not going to have the 80 be my place for learning.
How was access for welding the inside of the frame with the steering gear removed, assuming your engine was there to need to work around?
How was access for welding the inside of the frame with the steering gear removed, assuming your engine was there to need to work around?
On a different 80 a few years ago I found rather advanced cracking of the bracket and inboard side of the frame so I decided to cut the factory bracket off and start over from scratch building my own track bar bracket. This meant sanding the frame clean of all paint, welding the frame cracks which were all on the inboard side of the frame, and then making and welding plates to both sides of the frame and of course fabricating the bracket which welded on the inside just like the factory bracket.
It was tight working between the engine and frame but very doable with some patience.
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What has to be removed to weld these plates in?
I I've no foreseeable plans to have my truck torn apart but welding these plates in is on my list.
Is it something that can be done without removing a bunch of stuff?
I I've no foreseeable plans to have my truck torn apart but welding these plates in is on my list.
Is it something that can be done without removing a bunch of stuff?
It depends on what you consider a bunch of stuff. The steering gear box and the inner fender rubber apron need to be removed. What's in your way on the inside of the frame depends on what you and your 80 have going on. I made my own plates and other bits my 1993 a few years ago. The Delta kit is a good value when I consider how much time I spent making my own kit. Doing this before cracks start cuts down on the amount of work.
See, from my point of view (I've been around a weld or two
), NDE to check for cracks is part of the job. You check for cracks before doing anything else, grind them out and weld them up so you are back to original strength, then add reinforcement plates.
Amazon prime has eddy current machines ready to ship….See, from my point of view (I've been around a weld or two
What, not everyone has access to one already?
Jokes aside though, dye penetrant is so easy once you get the hang of it, I just don't know why more gearheads don't use it. You hear about guys paying to have motor parts "magnafluxed" and I always think, "you could have done an equivalent test at home on the cheap, before sending unknown parts to the expensive machinist."
