Project Ugly Duckling: 4WD Toyota Owner Magazine's 1970 FJ40 build/3B swap

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With our 3B engine and H55F 5-speed transmission attached, it became a little bit clunky to move around on the engine crane. With our engine load leveler and everything rigged up, we lifted the engine to see how the mounts would fit together and planned accordingly. It takes a whole lot of blood, sweat, tears and a little bit of yelling to get the position right. Getting the engine and the transmission in the right spot is integral to the whole job. If you mess that up, you mess up the whole project. We had to hold it to prevent it from swinging as we maneuvered into the empty engine bay. Many hands make light work, so we enlisted assistance from other lab partners and friends.

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The 3B was temporarily in her new home, and then we realized we had dug ourselves pretty deep into a bad problem. These engine side mounts just don’t fit. They’re completely wrong! When this kind of deal happens, you don’t want to assume the worst. Take a step back and look at your problem from every angle you can. But, there was no way around it, these mounts are just wrong.

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After some calling around and some researching we concluded that our best option was to make our own mounts. As if this whole install wasn’t tricky enough. The engines had to come out all over again. That’s one thing some videos or articles don’t show you. When you’re doing an install, you’ll have to check fitment about a billion and a half times before the job is done. We got some 2.5”x2.5” square stock and 3”x5” square stock and made our own mounts using angles. We also used flat plate 3/16” thick to bolt to the block as a flat surface to start with. Off to burning some steel we go. Imagination, problem solving and critical thinking are what this FJ40 required. Remember, high school kids are doing this!

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Mounts up close. We cleaned up all the sharp edges, paint them up and they turned out beautiful. A new mount is born! Drilling the center hole for the factory Toyota rubber mount was a snap. We cleaned up and welded some reinforcement over the area at right too.

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Thankfully this was the last fit. The after-school crew set up the engine for the last time to see how the new mounts fit in place. We were all excited for it to fit, took our time and the fitment was correct. Happy smiles and congratulatory high-fives all around! The mounts are at long last all together and everyone is proud of our hard work. They’re looking good on the frame and engine, they’re holding steady and strong. As you can see, we have the factory rubber engine mount to prevent our 3B from moving in our engine bay.

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Great thread guys! But, please tell me that jenky roof rack is going bye, bye.................... Don't think the fiberglass was designed for loads;)
 
Our latest venture was to install electric power steering in the FJ40.

The setup is quite simple for 1973 to 1984 40-series. But what about 1972 and back? That's what we decided to find out. We can report that we were successful and while it is not pull, plug n play like the 1973+, it's also not that hard either.

The vintage and well-documented option for FJ40 power steering is the Saginaw conversion using various GM parts and other items. It certainly works well enough, although to do it right requires careful placement and welding, plus plumbing hoses, lines, a master cylinder, drive belt, and more.

But this is 2018. Technology has moved forward. Electricity is our friend. No longer are we stuck with leaky pumps, messy oil and grinding/welding. With advancements in technology, why not have an electric power steering (EPS) option? Now when considering adding power steering into Land Cruisers, it's time to consider the electric option!

This Tesla-era setup was designed by EZ Electric Power Steering in the Netherlands (www.ezpowersteering.nl). In North America, their EZ EPS is distributed by City Racer LLC at www.cityracerllc.com (who also has a slew of cool Land Cruiser items available from 40-series to 100-series).

Saginaw kits are usually around $1300 for a fully complete kit, plus a ton of associated labor. That makes the $1870 price from City Racer well in line with a Saginaw, especially considering you are not dealing with welding, master cylinder install, and a pump and lines that can leak and fail. The EZ EPS has components from Koyo and NSK, both Japanese companies with a proven reputation for quality.

The EZ EPS kit is designed for two sets of trucks: 1973-1980, and then 1981-1984 Land Cruisers. 12V and 24V, LHD/RHD options are all available. For these years, the supplied steering EPS column and integrated electric motor are literally a swap-and-drop item from your OEM column, plus the associated wiring. There is no welding. There is no plumbing. No bleeding. No searching filthy junkyard trucks for parts.

It's literally this simple: for the 1973-1984 trucks: remove your factory steering column. The EZ EPS system keeps everything from the OEM manual steering box forward! You take your OEM steering lock/ignition key unit and fit it to the new EPS column. Feed the new column into the cabin and engine bay. Secure the end of the EPS steering flange to the OEM coupling. Mount the ECU and associated electronics in a safe location, put the column turn signal levers back on, get the steering wheel and associated small items on, test everything twice, and go enjoy your EZ Electric Power Steering!

The City Racer website has an excellent instruction page for the EZ Electric Power Steering on the EPS page. Check it out. But what about the many of us who have 1972 and older Land Cruisers?

That's where we stepped in. We know the 1973-1984 EZ EPS system is a very easy install. So easy in fact, it's a clear winner, labor-wise, over any Saginaw install. (Labor-wise, to repeat). For early FJ40 owners putting the EPS system in your trucks in not that difficult either, although it is certainly a "custom" install with a few added parts needed.

What do we think? Having done it, we can understand why EZ EPS chose to build their units for 1973-1984. Their units for those model years are swap, plug, and play--it's that simple. Easy to market and hardly any hard labor needed. But if you were thinking of doing the welding and plumbing of a Saginaw PS setup in a pre-'73, we are here to tell you that the EZ EPS is still massively less work, although there is cutting involved and additional parts to be sourced.
 
Here is our EZ Electric Power Steering unit new and ready to go. Above it are the various tie and relay rods of the factory steering system onto which we are installing new tie rod ends, since we have the whole thing apart anyway. And at top is the bell crank and arm that we also rebuilt at the same time.

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The electric motor of our EZ EPS looks like this. They have options for LHD and RHD, plus 12V and 24V systems (they do recommend a 24V-to-12V converter for 24V trucks; the part is on the www.cityracerllc.com website. The stylish engraved plaque on the reverse is a nice touch.

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The steering column brace was the first item that we found needed to be modified. We needed to open up the opening to allow for the top of the EPS unit. Hint: in order to do this we needed to remove the pedal assembly.

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With the steering column brace removed, we trimmed it to fit snugly as not to weaken it. After multiple attempts we settled on this. Still holds strong the column and will allow for the EZ EPS to clear.

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For pre-1972 and earlier FJ40 installs, source a 4-hole firewall mount plate from a 1973-1980 FJ40 to use with the EZ EPS unit.

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With the modified steering column brace installed, we can install the EZ EPS column. This unit is a heavy-duty piece, and we are using larger than factory fasteners and Grade 8 hardware we got from our local Fastenall store.

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The firewall mount plate is normally on the inside of the firewall. We found placed ours on the outside for ease of assembly of the lower column. We used large fender washers to hold in place for fitment. Although this way avoids any welding, we will tack weld the plate in place to insure the strongest placement.

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The lower half of the column needs to be inserted through the firewall from the engine bay. It then splines onto the steering column motor.
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The lower half of the steering column has a nice machined telescoping tube that is adjustable to cover the lower shaft and give it a nice finished look. The installer is holding the telescoping steering shaft cover and installing it over the shaft. Note the electric motor tucked up out of the way, under the dash near the installer's head.

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And we are done with the EZ EPS steering column install through the firewall! This install was not as easy as the 1973-194, as we needed to modify some pieces, but it wasn't difficult.

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