"PROJECT ROOBY" 80 all rounder build (2 Viewers)

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neat stuff

however
37's (36" actual in my case with swampers) on 4" of lift will rub hard in the front (against the radiator support) with stuffage and mild turning even if you extend the bumps 2". if you move the front axle forward it gets worse. This is indapendant of any rubbing at the fender. In my experience. how much bump stop extension is there? and if there is enough stop extension to prevent rubbage and there are 37" on only 4" lift with flares, where is all the uptravel coming from?
 
if you move the front axle forward it gets worse.

He's technically not moving the axle forward of the factory position but compensating for how he addressed caster.

When you press in CC bushings the standard way of 1 up and 1 down it doesn't rotate the axle but more accurately tilts it. So the axle's center moves closer to the frame bracket shortening the distance between the two. He then compounded this by elongating the front hole of the axle bracket and further tilted the axle back shortening that distance even more.

So by using the plate with the alignment dowel and drilling a new hole forward of the original he has basically compensated for that axle shift rearward.

Assuming he's done his homework the tire will now be more closely centered to the wheel well and should avoid other issues like the springs hitting the bump stop tower.
 
Assuming he's done his homework yada yada yada..............

Now, as for staying out of it, I hope you do, because the last thing I want in this thread, is your type of pissing and moaning attitude so far, so please do stay out of it, if you cant control yourself.

PM me if you have a problem with that, but dont continue it here.

I never got a PM from you, ....... so, follow the rules, simple, change your attitude, or dont post in this thread.


Ok, back to normal programming again,



Alot has to do with rim offset also, as well as adjusting the panhard to centre a little better when compressed, for scrubbing, and we made sure we could get what we wanted with the rims as well to help.

Thats what this project is about, measuring, thinking, making, and applying, and weighing the up, and down sides once applied.

Also, the front drive shaft needs no modification, that i can see at this stage, even at full droop.
 
I believe my attitude is just fine and didn't feel comfortable stating for sure the axle was in the correct position since I can only assume you did it correctly.

feel free to take your assessment of that post to the mods.
 
if it were your buildup thread that was thrown into the muck, wouldn't it be disappointing? I just want to see pics and descriptions on the topic, what Darren is building up.
 
Take a chill pill. There was absolutely no attitude in landtank's post. Quite a bit in yours though. I must have missed the rule where non-moderators can tell people not to post.



Now this is a pissy attitude. It's also a personal attack - which I know the moderators frown on (a little personal experience :) ).

Landtank made an observation - the extreme low pressure on those tires makes the flex look more extreme. It's an observation, it's also true. It's also easy for me to tell from my own observation if that was trail pressure around here, those pretty rims wouldn't last an hour, and you'd likely loose a bead within two.

Landtank made another observation - because of the way the axle is rotated with the caster correction, moving the axle forward a slight amount doesn't put it forward of stock it only returns it to stock. Also a true statement. Only he left out that since the radius arms are at more of an angle when they hit the bumpstop than stock, that brings the axle back a bit too, but I'll forgive him that one. ;)

I don't see a problem with tank's attitude on either of those posts, but I do think your reaction to them is overboard.
Looks like walking bird shoudl have sent a PM instead of posting :doh:

ats - only thing I'd change so far is ditching the color :D

Good to see you continuing to push the envelope past known limits again. This is the type of creativity that without, folks would still be driving around on the original standard OMEs.

Please keep the pics and posts coming.
 
Looks like walking bird shoudl have sent a PM instead of posting :doh:

ats - only thing I'd change so far is ditching the color :D

Good to see you continuing to push the envelope past known limits again. This is the type of creativity that without, folks would still be driving around on the original standard OMEs.

Please keep the pics and posts coming.

I agree. This is a very interesting thread from a tech perspective.
 
This is particularly pertinant to me with the aqusition of my wife's project truck.
 
Just about. She has the truck and we are mapping out repairs and suspension now.

She wanted a truck to "wheel like she stole it" and mine was not a viable candidate....:lol:


So, she and I are colaborating on a trail rig for her use.

I am keenly interested in Darren's new direction.
 
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Just about. She has the truck and we are mapping out repairs and suspension now.

She wanted a truck to "wheel like she stole it" and mine was not a viable candidate....:lol:


So, she and I are colaborating on a trail rig for her use.

I am keenly interested in Darren's new direction.

:idea: Sounds like the way I wheel! :lol:
 
back to tech

For the most part with FOR suspensions and here with Darren's the use of CC bushings seems to be accepted.

I would think that their use would be one of the first things to be avoided. They are less flexible, prone to faster wear and on par with cost of other methods that retain the use of the stock bushing. And here where Darren went the extra mile to compensate for axle shift the work involved would also seem greater.

So what's the deal? I thought the idea was to have the same or better flex of traditional springs but in a different range and wouldn't it also be desirable to continue the use of stock bushings?
 
ats4x4.com said:
In the rear, we are using a 12.5" stroke shock, that is also close to fully compressed when car is on bump stops, so I get maximum droop from the shock length Im using, when the bump spacers are installed, to help fit the tyres

I might have missed, but you are getting the full use out the 12.5" shock WITH the swaybar on? What level did you drop your swaybar? and is there some formula that you use to determine other than trying different lengths trial/error?

<<<EDIT>>>>

definitely interested to see how you will get the front to use the 12" travel as well.
 
Darren I like what your doing to your truck

Lets keep it tech here guys. Remind me to keep both Darren and Rick out of the Glass house, two bulls butting heads would cause a lot of damage :D

I would personally appreciate it if niether of you would engage the other.
 
Looks like walking bird shoudl have sent a PM instead of posting :doh:

ats - only thing I'd change so far is ditching the color :D

Good to see you continuing to push the envelope past known limits again. This is the type of creativity that without, folks would still be driving around on the original standard OMEs.

Please keep the pics and posts coming.

I agree on the color, wasnt my first pick, but, when its cheap, I can live with it. black top section, dark silver bottom may come, when it gets cut into a ute some time in the future though :grinpimp:


As for the CC bushes, we use a specific brand, great on duro, and thats why we only use 2 deg, and not 3 deg, because what your talking about Landtank, is correct with 3 deg or cheaper stiffer bushes, and can limit travel, and even cause housing cracks. To get maximum travel from the bushes, I have drilled holes in them before, giving them more movement, and duro doesnt seem to be effected much wioth std rubber ones, but the CC poly ones, even the good quality ones we use, dont like extra holes in them.

Axle relocation actually has nothing to do with the CC bushes.

The pic of my patrol, on the ramp at the 4wd show here, which uses same bushes as cruiser, and siliar arms and spring/shock design, has CC bushes fitted in that pic and that vehicle had 10" stroke shocks, using all 10" of stroke in its articulation.

I do have a plan B, which I have done before, to make the arms flex more, if the full twist of the shock stroke cant be used, but Im starting with the basics, so we can document it, and move to the next step.
cruiserdanShe wanted a truck to "wheel like she stole it" and mine was not a viable candidate....:lol:

Dont leave the keys laying around Dan, or she might just do both, steal it, and wheel it :hillbilly:

Short bus bar is on, and I went black gloss for now, may color code it to car, when rear Slee bar and wheel carrier arrive later, sliders will also be black.

Some elec work, VIV inspection, and ready for reg at the moment, so will have some more pics shortly, then once reg is done, we get out the plasma and welder again, heading down the beach for a BBQ breakfast for the wifes birthday in it Saturday, the down side of this is the rings I had to get made for her birthday, and wedding ann 3 days later, after the vehicles I have spent money on so far this year :crybaby: :cheers:
 
Those "pretty" rims, were pretty tough actually, and even beadlocked, [I thought your keen eagle eye may of spotted that] Robby Gordon rims werent the best, but the beadlocks survived, unlike Walker evans or Allied beadlocks we tried, so losing a bead, pretty difficult, the car was on display, at a 4wd show, i dont think anyone said the tyres werent helping........though the vehicle will go over the 1000 RTI on road pressures, 25 deg ramp, sway bars connected.
 
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Darren if you need some "remote testing" for some of those bits I know just the person....;)

Petrol and red so the test bed should be fairly even...:lol:
 
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