Builds Project Pikachu: 1977 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

[cbmontgo]

Picked up the rebuilt steering box earlier this week and installed it last night. What a huge difference.

Also of note, I got the rear license plate lights connected and working, so I'm completely legal at night.

Sad day for the mutt though. She got popped by a Copperhead out in the yard. She is heavily medicated and will be fine, but was kinda scary.

 

[cbmontgo]

And of course, went for a long drive after it was put back together.

 

[wngrog]

Damn snakes. Pig recovered in 3 days no meds

 

[wngrog]

Anyone making those stripes?

 

[cbmontgo]

I've had a little bit of an issue with the throttle sticking after getting up to speed lately. I originally suspected a weak spring on either the carburetor linkage or on the accelerator pedal mechanism, but noticed that the torque rod grommet was out of place and badly worn. Found that Cruiser Corps sells these for cheap and installed it. Also added some oil to the linkage between the carb and accelerator and the problem seems to be solved.

 

[wngrog]

Get that.....

 

[Honger]

Also added some oil to the linkage between the carb and accelerator and the problem seems to be solved.

Somewhere here on MUD I read that the throttle linkage is better lubed with a dry material than straight oil... as the oil will buildup dirt and gunk. I use a dry-type bicycle chain lube from one of the bike shops here. Works like a champ and keeps the linkages nice and clean. I also use it on the hood clasps.

I love your rig and the overall look/feel of it.

 

[cbmontgo]

I decided to pull the trigger on lower dash pads. This guy at fj40dash.com really makes a nice set. I installed them and it really brings this dash back to life.

These are threaded in the back, but come with lock washers, nuts, and screws for the bottom of the pad for the OEM holes underneath. I'd definitely recommend this product.

 

[cbmontgo]

Despite my best efforts, the steering wheel won't quite center with the wheels straight. The 40 tracks nice down the highway now, but the steering wheel is off by about 45 degrees. One spline on the pitman arm it's slightly too far left, the next spline it's too far right. So, I removed the steering wheel to fine tune it.

Naturally, one thing leads to another and I find that the wiring and contacts for the horn are literally corroded in half. Funny how the body and frame are so rust-free, yet the Mississippi humidity still found a way to leave its mark after 40 years.

I can't reinstall it like this, and a functioning horn has been on my list anyway. Gotta fix it.

 

[cbmontgo]

My buddy @Drewk and I have what I'll call a "shared" parts bin with a random assortment of spares and misfits. I looked in there today and found a steering wheel from one of his former parts rigs. The wheel was in rough shape, but the horn contacts and wiring were near perfect. So, I swapped them out into mine.

I had to use a grinder to remove the old corroded terminals in my steering wheel. Then I used some stainless machine screws to put the contactors back together through the back side of the wheel. Not exactly OEM, but works great and I have to remind myself that this is a trail/camping rig and not a show truck.

Back in business. Good, working horn and a straight wheel.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Great indoor project for today. I can't think of anything to bring inside worth making a mad dash outside to the garage.

 

[cbmontgo]

Great indoor project for today. I can't think of anything to bring inside worth making a mad dash outside to the garage.

It was a good day for it. Not getting too much rain from ole Harvey just yet. Hope y'all are hanging in there.

 

[ntsaint]

Carson, awesome work.

Hey next time you are close to Pikachu will you snap a pic or two of exactly where your footman loops are located? Have to drill and mount on mine this week. Obv want to get it right and since you and I ordered same soft top figure yours is the best reference.

No rush at all. Thx man.

 

[cbmontgo]

So the throttle sticking issue has come back and is happening 100% of the time when driving in 2nd, 3rd, or 4th gear. I ordered some dry lube, disconnected the linkage arms, and still had the issue.

The next suspect was the accelerator spring, which was sprayed with this old sh*tty bedliner from way back when. I pulled it, dipped it in carb cleaner, and reassembled. No dice.

I'm starting to suspect the diaphragm on the side of the carb.

I thought this was gonna be a very simple fix, but no luck just yet...we will see what the experts say. Always a fun learning experience with these sorts of things.

1977 FJ40 sticking throttle

 

[cbmontgo]

So it's kinda been on my mind to call Pikachu second owner, Mark Scarbrough, named on the tattered and wrinkled Mississippi title when I bought the 40. Seemed like a great guy, and he was happy to talk Cruisers for a bit.

If I heard him right, the story is that he bought it in 1983 or 1984 from a gravel business in Mississippi, the original owner. It was in pristine condition, and he used it for weekend cruising until somewhere around the mid to late 1990s.

Mark then gave/loaned it to a friend who was on dialysis and needed a project to keep his mind off of health issues. During or after this time, other folks drove it, got it stuck in the mud a few times on booze cruises, and eventually it ended up parked and sitting. As time passed, his friend later sold it to the hot rod shop towards Election Day 2016.

Mark said that it had an overdrive installed as well back in the day. He also seemed to think that the aluminum radiator and water pump were replaced in the last 5 years. Also commented on how well the engine always ran.

He still has a strong attachment to this 40. I definitely get it. Like a first love, I think that a former trusty old Land Cruiser is always "yours", no matter how long ago you separated from it. I'm reminded of how mad a P.O. in Denver got at me for trading off my [his former] FJ40 for my HJ47 (the green FJ40 that inspired this entire build). I've always felt bad about breaking that bond, but I suppose we all have to move on sometimes and be inspired by new things.

Mark said he'd have bought it back if he had known it was back up for sale last year. When I offered to send pictures, he changed the subject, then just said that he's glad it went to a good home.

 

[cbmontgo]

Made some progress with the sticky throttle. By this past weekend, I suspected that it might be caused by vacuum, because I could remove the hose connected to the electrical VCV on the DS fender and it would idle up to EXACTLY where it would stick when driving. Finally disconnected the emissions computer to isolate it being electrically controlled. Problem completely went away.

This little unit had been exposed to a good bit of moisture for a long period of time.

 

[1911]

Made some progress with the sticky throttle. By this past weekend, I suspected that it might be caused by vacuum, because I could remove the hose connected to the electrical VCV on the DS fender and it would idle up to EXACTLY where it would stick when driving. Finally disconnected the emissions computer to isolate it being electrically controlled. Problem completely went away.

This little unit had been exposed to a good bit of moisture for a long period of time.
View attachment 1536851 View attachment 1536852 View attachment 1536853

Carson, the emissions "computer" controls the function of the fuel cut (idle) solenoid on the carb. Without the computer, you will want to power the fuel cut solenoid with 12v that is switched with ignition, otherwise it may stall at idle and be hard to start. On my 1980, the computer (looked just like yours) simply completed the ground circuit for the solenoid to turn it on, so all I had to do was to permanently ground that wire that came into the computer. Not certain if yours will be the same, but a quick inspection of the factory wiring diagram for your year would tell you pretty quick.

The little computers were cold soldered at the factory, and the solder joints at the terminals are notorious for cracking and causing intermittent open problems.

Glad that you figured out your problem.

Lee

 

[cbmontgo]

Carson, the emissions "computer" controls the function of the fuel cut (idle) solenoid on the carb. Without the computer, you will want to power the fuel cut solenoid with 12v that is switched with ignition, otherwise it may stall at idle and be hard to start. On my 1980, the computer (looked just like yours) simply completed the ground circuit for the solenoid to turn it on, so all I had to do was to permanently ground that wire that came into the computer. Not certain if yours will be the same, but a quick inspection of the factory wiring diagram for your year would tell you pretty quick.

The little computers were cold soldered at the factory, and the solder joints at the terminals are notorious for cracking and causing intermittent open problems.

Glad that you figured out your problem.

Lee

Thanks, Lee. Interestingly, it idles just fine with the computer gone. Maybe 1977 is wired differently; I'll check.

 

[cbmontgo]

Rig is really running nice these days. Come for a drive.

 

[fyton2v]

Seems so quiet. Where do you keep all your wind, road, and engine noise?

Rig is really running nice these days. Come for a drive.