Project Onboard Air: York Compressor (1 Viewer)

[96r50]

yeah I got them for the York. Thats the pic up top. The fittings on bottom are the same without the ferules. I wont claim to know the differences/similarities between AN and JIC. I just brought the stuff in and they grabbed at stuff in a drawer

I got the stuff from ORME Bros in Northridge and these guys KNOW hoses/tubes.

Fair enough. I'll just see what I can find to adapt to NPT. Thanks

Projects? The serious projects that I am actually working on and not just planning are:
• Power Steering upgrade (reservoir, cooler, hoses)
• Stereo upgrade (Kappa speakers, Scion headunit, new wiring, Second Skin, XM)
• York OBA (adding tank to sliders, running fits ports, other funkiness to go overboard)
• INTI-ize the new ConFer rack I am getting
• Starter cable upgrade

Everything else is still in the planning stages.

I find it very convenient (and slightly unnerving) that you keep doing most of the projects I have at the top of my list. Will we be lucky enough to see writeups on all of these?

 

[NLXTACY]

I find it very convenient (and slightly unnerving) that you keep doing most of the projects I have at the top of my list. Will we be lucky enough to see writeups on all of these?

Come on now, you guys KNOW I love to write up totally verbose FAQs with tons of pics only to have the mods never consider them FAQ worthy

But hell yeah I'll be doing a write up!! PS pump was already changed but wanted to get to SnT so I didn't get the other stuff on. I have all of the stereo upgrade, I just need to actually Do the work. I have ZERO stereo experience, nor am I an audiophile, so I have just been vaselating [sp?] on that. The York add on I have just been doing here and there and been mainly waiting for GLWJ to finish up the kits.....but I don't need to tell YOU that
The new rack is needed because the one I have is just too small, its good for small trips but not for longer stuff or snowboards. The starter cable upgrade will also include a engine bump so that I don't need someone else to turn over the truck.

 

[96r50]

Come on now, you guys KNOW I love to write up totally verbose FAQs with tons of pics only to have the mods never consider them FAQ worthy

I'll keep them in my very own FAQ folder of subscribed threads if it helps motivate you

 

[AppleTech]

Along the same lines, I went to my local Napa today and neither the very helpful lady at the counter nor I could find a complete rebuild kit. Ebay has some for $100 which seems about 5 times too much. Where have folks been finding these?
Thanks

Welcome to T/CCI Manufacturing, LLC - give them a call and ask. They might sell it direct. I wouldn't pay more than $50, but I've never done one to my own - I just dropped it in and used it.

-Phil

 

[96r50]

Oh and make sure you get the ferules and o-rings as well. And also make sure you have your hose routing planned out first. I got all the hoses and everything done only to realized I had the suction and discharged sizes switched.

Here you can see what the fittings look like on my brandy spanking new p/s reservoir

I am trying to find adapters that will screw on to the AN fittings on the York and adapt them to NPT fittings. I have found a hydraulics place in town that seems to have the AN to NPT adapters I want, but they don't have any of those ferrules which I believe are needed to seal properly. Are those ferrules available separately? If not I may just end up going with the Kilby flanges and getting a gasket kit at the same time.

 

[bpassmore]

The new rack is needed because the one I have is just too small

And, it's in pieces on the floor...

 

[NLXTACY]

And, it's in pieces on the floor...

blah blah blah blah

 

[CruisinGA]

Along the same lines, I went to my local Napa today and neither the very helpful lady at the counter nor I could find a complete rebuild kit. Ebay has some for $100 which seems about 5 times too much. Where have folks been finding these?
Thanks

Not sure why I would bother rebuilding a york. They are almost free, and almost never seem to fail. (Actually never heard of one failing when used in an OBA application)

Knowing next to nothing about fittings and such, is it possible that they are a JIC fitting and not the AN variety? Wikipedia says they can work together but it's not the best idea. JIC is apparently the industrial version of AN (military, from Airforce-Navy), so would it not be more likely to be JIC in this application? I guess my main question would really be does it matter? Have you tried your fittings on your York?

It is my understanding, after asking someone "in the know" that JIC and AN are the EXACT same thing, except JIC is steel and AN is aluminum.

 

[NLXTACY]

It is my understanding, after asking someone "in the know" that JIC and AN are the EXACT same thing, except JIC is steel and AN is aluminum.

AHA!!!!

 

[Trailbus]

It is my understanding, after asking someone "in the know" that JIC and AN are the EXACT same thing, except JIC is steel and AN is aluminum.

Acually, AN is the same as JIC but is the part number designated for aircraft. I've been using these fittings for 23 years (Air Force calibration technician) & thought my civilian friend was crazy when he called them JIC. You can get AN in Steel, Stainless, Aluminum and Brass. I've mixed & matched JIC and AN fittings numerous times without a problem. I typically use the Stainless ones up to ~10,000 PSI and aluminum around 500 PSI. Aluminum and Brass seal better if the flared tube has any defects, Otherwise stainless is the way to go. You should only have to tighten the fitting ~ 1/8 of a turn after the mating surface contact is made. Over tightening will distort the fitting.

Here it is straight from wikipedia:

The AN thread is a particular type of fitting used to connect flexible hoses and rigid metal tubing that carry fluid. It is a US military-derived specification stemming from a joint standard agreed upon by the Air Force and Navy, hence AN.
AN sizes range from -2 (dash two) to -32 in irregular steps, with each step equating to the OD (outside diameter) of the tubing in 1/16" increments. Therefore, a -8 AN size would be equal to 1/2" OD tube (8 x 1/16 = 1/2). However, this system does not specify the ID (inside diameter) of the tubing because the tube wall can vary in thickness. Each AN size also uses its own standard thread size.
AN fittings are a flare fitting, using 37° flared tubing to form a metal-metal seal. They are similar to other 37° flared fittings, such as JIC fittings, which is their industrial variant. The two are interchangeable in theory, though this is typically not recommended due to the exacting specifications and demands of the aerospace industry. The differences between them relate to thread class (how tight a fit the threads are) and the metals used.
Note that 37° AN and 45° SAE fittings and tooling are not interchangeable due to the different flaring angles. Mixing them can cause leakage at the flare.

 

[96r50]

Here's a link to the Coalescing filter I picked up for $65 (Grainger #4ZL23). You can order it from any Grainger store. It is actually a nice unit with a service indicator as well. I got the metal bowl unit - they sell a polycarbonate bowl but it is only good to like 125PSI and much lower temps.

I'll post install pics once it is inline.

-Phil

Pneumatics & Hydraulics > System Components > Oil Removal Filters > Filter,Oil Removal : Grainger Industrial Supply

Hey Phil, did you manage to get this installed? How (and where) did you mount it?

On another OBA note, I am still trying to decide between using 1/4ID and 3/8ID tubing. I wanted to use 3/8 to provide better flow (keeping with the general theme of "overbuilt" present in these trucks), but for simplicity's sake I think I'm going to go with 1/4 instead, since finding a lot of 3/8 parts is either difficult or expensive. Any thoughts?

Joey, how are all your projects going?

 

[NLXTACY]

Joey, how are all your projects going?

Dead in the water until I start getting parts in the mail and my clients start paying their invoices.

The York bracket is annoying slow but there is at least light at the end of the tunnel.

 

[AppleTech]

Hey Phil, did you manage to get this installed? How (and where) did you mount it?

On another OBA note, I am still trying to decide between using 1/4ID and 3/8ID tubing. I wanted to use 3/8 to provide better flow (keeping with the general theme of "overbuilt" present in these trucks), but for simplicity's sake I think I'm going to go with 1/4 instead, since finding a lot of 3/8 parts is either difficult or expensive. Any thoughts?

Joey, how are all your projects going?

I haven't got it installed yet - I'm still in Volvo engine swap hell (too much crankcase pressure - puking oil out the rear seal )

Go with 1/4" ID - no need for 3/8" - airflow is not a concern at all - the compressor cannot pump enough to make that size difference mean anything. Much cheaper and easier to find common 1/4" parts.

-Phil

 

[TrickyT]

...On another OBA note, I am still trying to decide between using 1/4ID and 3/8ID tubing. I wanted to use 3/8 to provide better flow (keeping with the general theme of "overbuilt" present in these trucks), but for simplicity's sake I think I'm going to go with 1/4 instead, since finding a lot of 3/8 parts is either difficult or expensive. Any thoughts?...

I've heard (no personal experience) that the DOT 3/8" tubing is a little harder to work with and the bend radius needs to be ~50% greater (1.5-2"). On the plus side, you get almost 50% more air volume - important for running air tools. I read in a Jeep OBA forum where a guy upgraded his 1/4" system to 3/8" for just this reason.

...Go with 1/4" ID - no need for 3/8" - airflow is not a concern at all - the compressor cannot pump enough to make that size difference mean anything...

Phil, Don't forget the storage tank can supply air at the same time the compressor is running. If you're just filling tires, 1/4" is probably fine since the valve stem is the limiting factor. If you're running air tools it's another story.

 

[NLXTACY]

Tricky's right. I will be running 3/8" only because I plan on using air tools.

 

[96r50]

Is the effect of 3/8 not negated by using a tank and/or quick disconnects with 1/4 openings? I thought that even one smaller diameter fitting restricts flow as if the whole system was that size? Sorry for all the questions; I just want to do this once the right way!

 

[alia176]

FWIW, I use 3/8" to the two quick disconnect couplers for air inflation and tool duties. The rest of my system uses 1/4".

 

[TrickyT]

I think there may be some ID vs. OD confusion going on here, although I see that Adam did say he was talking inside diameters in his #171 post. He also said "tubing" in that post, and by this I thought he meant the D.O.T. compliant air brake tubing that many of us are using. But this tubing and its associated push-on fittings are typically sized by outside diameter, in contrast to rubber hose and pipe which is virtually always measured by ID.

1/4" DOT tubing has an ID of ~0.17", 3/8" DOT tubing has an ID of ~0.251", and 1/2" DOT tubing has an ID of ~0.376". I know Ali is using DOT air brake tubing in his OBA setup, and when he said 3/8" I think he meant OD. (Ali, please confirm.) If instead he meant ID, then this would be 1/2" DOT tubing, with a minimum bend radius of 2-2.5", and this is much more difficult to work with.

And just to give more food for thought, I just checked the fittings I bought for some Goodyear "Insta-Grip" high temperature reinforced hose I plan to run between my compressor and coalescing filter. The hose is 3/8" ID, but the 3/8" NPT fitting is only 1/4" ID where the hose fits over it. But I don't think the 1" long x 1/4" restriction for each of these kind of fittings will mean the net air volume is the same as if everything was plumbed with 1/4" ID pipe -- because air is a compressible medium. What's more important in this situation is that there are less frictional losses in 3/8" vs 1/4" hose and hence pressure can better be maintained for a given volume of air.

 

[wierdbeard]

haha! yes i am bringing this back to life.

So its been a few years since this project was developed. How many of you guys that bought the bracket set up etc, installed them? I was digging around in a few boxes and found mine, i completely forgot that i bought it.
How was the install?

Is it still in?

Any long term issues?

how's the york compressor doing? rebuilt? replaced?

If you had to do it again would you and if not why?

I'm askin since my vacation time is always limited, is it worth the effort.

 

[napir]

If you decide to part with it, dibs.