Project - Not so Nice (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter S4Cruiser
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Yup, agreed. Looked a little steep.
Looks like a good angle to try, I have mine just bolted down for the time being so I can try different angles to see what I like best before ultimately running some welds on the mounts for a more permanent setting. Im curious how your rig would do on a rti ramp. I imagine it will do very well. You may consider flexing it out fully anyway just to check for any clearance issues such as brake hoses/wires etc.
S4Cruiser
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- Thread starter
- #745
I've got just 1 bolt per in the pic above (glad I'm not the only one has the mounts bolted as a temporary solution!). I plan to flex it out in my ditch to make sure there aren't any glaring issues and then just burn them in. I can't think there are many other variations...other then adding a leaf (or linking the rear).
Luckily I 'think' I've identified where my issues are - brake lines for the front axle (axle to caliper) need to be longer to allow more steering...which I have longer ones to swap in. The other issue is a real stinker but one I'm not really that concerned about. On extensive compression the driver spring contacts the pitman arm (scout box) and the drag link contacts the frame on the passenger side. I could undo the shackle reversal (would require re cut-n-turn to correct any castor changes) or just extend my bumps tops another .25". I'll choose the easy route (bumps top) and chalk it up to a learning experience.
Right now I've been using a shorter shackle at nearly 90 degrees for a while. Soon I'll put on some longer ones at a angle similar to yours n see how it feels. Lowering the front bumpstops sounds like a great solution. 1/4" isnt much.
Nice. Where did that come from?
S4Cruiser
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- Thread starter
- #749
From here - For Sale - Water Temperature Gauge Sending Unit Sensor Boot ( New )
Maybe I got the last of this version from Matt, not sure as he's got some listed on eBay too - Wire Connector Toyota Water Coolant Temperature Sender Sensor Gauge Boot FJ40 | eBay
S4Cruiser
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- Thread starter
- #751
Pretty much finished rebuilding my spare sm465. As part of swapping it in I am toying with the idea of building a transmission mount.
We all know the stock setup F/2F - trans - tcase had no mounts as it relied on the engine and bell housing mounts for support. One could assume additional mounts aren't needed when using a different trans / tcase; however, should we take differences of weight into account?
Toyota H42 trans vs sm465 weight is ~72 lbs
Toyota Aluminum tcase vs Orion is ~90 lbs
...so the combo I'm running has an extra ~160lbs hanging off the bell housing. That seems significant to me
What I do not want to do is run the typical batwing style mount off the rear of the tcase in fear of it potentially causing the sm465 to Orion plate adapter bolts to 'walk' loose. @mtweller hypothesized this could've been a contributing factor with his initial plate adapter/mount setup. I've also read others comment on this being a potential cause of plates coming loose.
Based on the above, I'd like to conjure up a solution leveraging the sm465 side cover plates and my IPOR skid. It would require some modification of the front skid section to hang a bit lower then it is now, but still shouldn't hang lower then the current lowest point of the skid.
Thoughts on this design before I get to cuttin??
We all know the stock setup F/2F - trans - tcase had no mounts as it relied on the engine and bell housing mounts for support. One could assume additional mounts aren't needed when using a different trans / tcase; however, should we take differences of weight into account?
Toyota H42 trans vs sm465 weight is ~72 lbs
Toyota Aluminum tcase vs Orion is ~90 lbs
...so the combo I'm running has an extra ~160lbs hanging off the bell housing. That seems significant to me
What I do not want to do is run the typical batwing style mount off the rear of the tcase in fear of it potentially causing the sm465 to Orion plate adapter bolts to 'walk' loose. @mtweller hypothesized this could've been a contributing factor with his initial plate adapter/mount setup. I've also read others comment on this being a potential cause of plates coming loose.
Based on the above, I'd like to conjure up a solution leveraging the sm465 side cover plates and my IPOR skid. It would require some modification of the front skid section to hang a bit lower then it is now, but still shouldn't hang lower then the current lowest point of the skid.
Thoughts on this design before I get to cuttin??
I think it will get caught up their a bit. But I think it will work. When I come off a big ledge that area always knicks rocks but slides off as is. I have a plate adapter too. I think next time its apart I will drill and tap the trans housing to a bigger size and for a fine thread. Then drill the plate adapter holes and countersink bigger. Shouldnt be too much work. That will help keep bolts from breaking and help aid them stay tight. For greater ground clearance u could make a crossmember that goes over the top of the frame and make a heavy duty rear tcase PTO block off plate that it bolts to.
S4Cruiser
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- Thread starter
- #753
That was my first thought too, changing the skid in a way that would potentially turn it into a catch point. Hmmm...
I could put the poly mount to the side of the trans and use just one of the 465 pto mounts as the attachment point. Would this still function fine as a support mount?
This is my first attempt at building a mount so it's all new...don't want to **** it up.
I've never heard or seen anyone go off of one side for a mount. U got room for that? I dont on mine. I only see two places for a mount on mine. The rear tcase PTO cover, or welding a mount to the bottom of the plate adapter.
S4Cruiser
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- Thread starter
- #756
Few pics of my progress.
Trans got new output shaft, new input shaft, new bushings, synchros, bearings , seals and gaskets. Polished the shift rails. New hardware too. Hope to have the current trans/tcase out and separated tomorrow...cleanup the Orion and back together!
Trans got new output shaft, new input shaft, new bushings, synchros, bearings , seals and gaskets. Polished the shift rails. New hardware too. Hope to have the current trans/tcase out and separated tomorrow...cleanup the Orion and back together!
I had 465 professionally rebuilt. It leaked not long after from the front input seal. I pulled the Trans and found the seal had been torn . They must have torn it when they slid the input housing on. It's really tough to not tear it. Adding lube to the seal and shaft helped. Their are some threads in the Chevy forums on some simple mods u can do to tighten up the shifter before u slide it into the tower to reduce slop. Also their is a female weather pack type reverse light switch available if u want to use a weatherpack connector on it. Now my 465 is seeping from the output for some reason. The countersunk holes were cleaned really well last time and then I used loctite and tightened them like crazy. So when I pull the tcase I'll see if they held without a crossmember.
. The countersunk holes were cleaned really well last time and then I used loctite and tightened them like crazy. So when I pull the tcase I'll see if they held without a crossmember.
The mount (where it bolts to the transmission/tcase) needs to be in line with the centerline of the drive train. If not, then it'll tear the driveline apart.
Definitely need to add a mount with that much additional weight. Batwing mount off of the transfer case input shaft cover is the ideal solution. Make sure it's isolated from the frame with nice cushy rubber mounts to match the oem ones and you'll be good.
Iirc, @mtweller 's issue was that they threaded the bolts that held everything together straight into tapped aluminum, vs using studs. He revised the design to use captured bolts as studs and had no issues.
Definitely need to add a mount with that much additional weight. Batwing mount off of the transfer case input shaft cover is the ideal solution. Make sure it's isolated from the frame with nice cushy rubber mounts to match the oem ones and you'll be good.
Iirc, @mtweller 's issue was that they threaded the bolts that held everything together straight into tapped aluminum, vs using studs. He revised the design to use captured bolts as studs and had no issues.
Yup. That combined with a broken motor mount caused too much twist in the DL and something had to give.
