Project MOVIESTAR (1 Viewer)

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Not glorious work, but useful preparation.

Cargo lights new wiring harness made an installed. Now can install insulation and headliner.


All four doors have hardware installed, doors latch (and open). Ready to put window felt and windows in.


Walkermans pivot allowed me to install drivers vent window.


Paint shop did a great job lining up the body lines.


These sure look better than the old rotted ones, but are a very loose fit. Would not stand up to a car wash, or pressure washer. Still eternally grateful to have them.
 
Roof insulation. I considered several options on this. Butyl/foil (like the eastwood stuff), self adhesive foam, self adhesive foil backed bubble wrap (yes, really), foil backed fiberglass, and foil backed cotton.

I went with the foil backed cotton. It is closest to the factory insulation, with the addition of foil for extra heat retention. Light enough that is will not fall.
Dynamat/Eastwood/Butyl stuff is very heavy, and if it falls in high heat, would bulge the headliner.
Self adhesive foam would probably work, but has less acoustic dampening than the cotton.
Foil backed bubble wrap....I just cant bring myself to use fancy bubble wrap....
Fiberglass and Cotton were about same price, I prefer environmentally safe, not itchy recycled cotton.

Should cost about $40 for the entire roof, plus a can of good spray adhesive.



 
scorcher1967 said:
Roof insulation. I considered several options on this. Butyl/foil (like the eastwood stuff), self adhesive foam, self adhesive foil backed bubble wrap (yes, really), foil backed fiberglass, and foil backed cotton.

I went with the foil backed cotton. It is closest to the factory insulation, with the addition of foil for extra heat retention. Light enough that is will not fall.
Dynamat/Eastwood/Butyl stuff is very heavy, and if it falls in high heat, would bulge the headliner.
Self adhesive foam would probably work, but has less acoustic dampening than the cotton.
Foil backed bubble wrap....I just cant bring myself to use fancy bubble wrap....
Fiberglass and Cotton were about same price, I prefer environmentally safe, not itchy recycled cotton.

Should cost about $40 for the entire roof, plus a can of good spray adhesive.



Click to expand...

Question: is the cotton insulation more likely to absorb moisture, and therefore be bad for a Pig body?
 
PabloCruise said:
Question: is the cotton insulation more likely to absorb moisture, and therefore be bad for a Pig body?
Click to expand...

Actually, the cotton "breathes" better than the adhesive foam or the foil backed bubble wrap. Slightly better than the fiberglass. Also, when I put the roof skin put extra work into preventing the same spots from rusting, so I hope it holds longer than the factory.

Best solution for heat and sound would be a permanent spray on such as Lizard Skin. But $$$
 
scorcher1967 said:
Not glorious work, but useful preparation.

Cargo lights new wiring harness made an installed. Now can install insulation and headliner.


All four doors have hardware installed, doors latch (and open). Ready to put window felt and windows in.


Walkermans pivot allowed me to install drivers vent window.


Paint shop did a great job lining up the body lines.


These sure look better than the old rotted ones, but are a very loose fit. Would not stand up to a car wash, or pressure washer. Still eternally grateful to have them.
Click to expand...
Glad I was able to help with window pivot the switch for the brake lights is en route. What's the easiest way to scrap that original insulation off the roof area.


Sent from my iPad
 
Walkerm916 said:
Glad I was able to help with window pivot the switch for the brake lights is en route. What's the easiest way to scrap that original insulation off the roof area.


Sent from my iPad
Click to expand...

Rip it off by hand, wire brush the remnants. I usually send it off to sandblasting at that point, but one could sand off the old glue, or use copious amounts of acetone to dissolve it.
 
Enough snow melted to take a trip down to Denver and visit BD Company. I was a kid in a candy store. Got samples of window track, got door seals. Got started on fitting door seals.

I may, if there is enough interest, compile the part numbers, lengths and installation instructions in a new thread.
 
Fitting pictures.

On the passenger front door, I started with the upper/rearmost corner. It is the sharpest bend, and does not seal the corner well without a little notch. This stuff is a bulb seal.

How the notch fits installed. With the door closed, the gap gets closed.


The door seals fit nicely in the factory channel, but have to be trimmed to clear the door latch.



With the rear door shut, the two pieces seal nicely together.
 
scorcher1967 said:
Enough snow melted to take a trip down to Denver and visit BD Company. I was a kid in a candy store. Got samples of window track, got door seals. Got started on fitting door seals.

I may, if there is enough interest, compile the part numbers, lengths and installation instructions in a new thread.
Click to expand...
YES PLEASE!!!!!!:clap::bounce::beer::beer:
 
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