Project ... "killer Piggy" (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

As RUSH has stated ... Onward !!!

So this suspension and steering setup is incredibly tight with mm tolerances BUT looks like we are going to pull it off. Things are moving now and will post pics of all the details guys

Everything bracket-wise is from TMR Customs

67718457008__8EED27A0-2B5B-4D34-B1DF-F63C41C49361 by Steve Heck, on Flickr


67719887879__91E73E37-5B19-4908-8DB6-5BD6E443D51F 2 by Steve Heck, on Flickr


67719882340__22AA0C5E-CBE0-41C7-9082-7F1B4804DD3A by Steve Heck, on Flickr
 
Thanks guys
RUSH, here you go ...

So placed the body on and ALL clearances are good
The suspension as you see it is fully extended/droop. She will end up 5-6" lower with rear axel set about 2" back

So far so good, just need to check for bump steer

IMG_5424 by Steve Heck, on Flickr


IMG_5415 by Steve Heck, on Flickr


IMG_5418 by Steve Heck, on Flickr
 
Last edited:
Hot D@mn!
 
Did you cap this first? Or just the factory diff cover?

That housing is 100% chance warped now with all that welding and that hydro arm will likely rip apart the diff cover. You can SEE Toyota housings move when you weld on them unless they are in a jig, and then only weld at short intervals.

I know housings are expensive, but the stock Toyota ones are paper thin and you’ll have issues with all the welding that’s been done and the HP you have coming to it. If it’s 99.5% for show, ok maybe, but if you intend to wheel this at all, I see major issues. That diff and axle seals will likely leak forever if you can get them to go in.

Just trying to help before you have to redo a ton of work. This $5,000 budget is a killer I know.

7081FD6D-0CFB-4EEE-BFEE-2EBED5859CB1.jpeg
 
Did you cap this first? Or just the factory diff cover?

That housing is 100% chance warped now with all that welding and that hydro arm will likely rip apart the diff cover. You can SEE Toyota housings move when you weld on them unless they are in a jig, and then only weld at short intervals.

I know housings are expensive, but the stock Toyota ones are paper thin and you’ll have issues with all the welding that’s been done and the HP you have coming to it. If it’s 99.5% for show, ok maybe, but if you intend to wheel this at all, I see major issues. That diff and axle seals will likely leak forever if you can get them to go in.

Just trying to help before you have to redo a ton of work. This $5,000 budget is a killer I know.
All this coming from a guy that was considering welding a bunch of the Trail Seamstress crap on his version of a “Killer Piggy” and got me permanently blocked by said cuntwaffleseamstress for life because I asked questions he didn’t want to answer?

Do you still have all those IG photos of the seamstress work?
 
@J Mack

You love the trailtailor guy! Y’all are best buddies! He never said anything to me, just cancelled my order and wouldn’t return my emails…. Thanks to you! My chassis swap was so much fun anyway.

@Sheck44 I just want you to have the best info possible and learn from our mistakes dealing with Yota housings 👍
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom