Builds Project - EffjJay Eighty - 2UZ powered

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toojayzee said:
Plus - motor mounts, allot of wiring, new ac lines, power steering lines. drivelines shortened front and lengthened rear, air box etc.

For being one of the most straightforward swaps ive done out of about 30, its the most time consuming by a longshot. Perhaps because im trying to make it look 95% oem :confused:
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Same boat. Funny, I have about similar under the belt, and this was by far the most time consuming, and it still wasn't as nice as I would have liked it. But the hours would just keep stacking up.
 
^ Hey Rob, you two can't complain, it's a labor of love, erm, addiction and you both know it! :lol:


:hillbilly: I got's me one of them boxes just like that there thang, but ya needs ta have some random Toyota switches in there too for good measure. *How I actually make money doing those little ECT and Rear Window Switch Relocation kits is using the OE wires. :D

toojayzee said:
DSC09370.JPG
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Now, as for the AC fittings still leaking, go ahead and throw them in the oven at around 150 degrees for like 10 minutes (*watch them as I am not 100% certain of how long I've had to heat them in the past, if the solder melts, you've screwed up. :lol: ) to warm them up and then resolder the joints. The solder will flow and adhere better, but will take a slightly longer time to cool off. Do not go spritzing them down with water to try and rush it all, it'll ruin the bond and the solder.




p.s. You're both still having a better day than me! :bang: ;)



.
 
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Tapage said:
nice .. start at first attempt ! .. why are not responding to the throttle ?
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This wasnt the first start, but it did turn over on the first try a few weeks ago.

It wasnt responding to part throttle because I hadnt hooked up the +BM wire that gives power to the DBW servo opens the butterfly as part of the TRAC system.

I have a leak at the power steering resevoir, no doubt where I welded up a spot weld hole. Once that is fixed. I should be able to drive after I finish the exhaust.
 
Tapage said:
that means if you haven't the DBW pedal conected, it do nothing by pulling the throtle cable ?
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Tapage, I thought I read somewhere that you have a 2uz in yours ?

Mine isnt full dbw. Some have the TPS and pedal assy integrated together as one unit.

Mine still uses a throttle cable to control the TPS which is on the throttle body.
The signal is sent from the TPS to the ECU. There is a wire labled +BM that carries +12v to the servo. Since I didnt have power hooked up, the butterfly wasnt opening in the video.
My understanding is that toyota setup the last 10% of the butterfly to be opened manually as a "limp mode"

I have the wire hooked up now, and I hope to drive it this weekend.
 
What year 2UZ motor is this? I am 95% sure mine is drive by wire and requires an electronic pedal. It was one of the more expensive parts of my swap.. lol.

Ryan.

toojayzee said:
Tapage, I thought I read somewhere that you have a 2uz in yours ?

Mine isnt full dbw. Some have the TPS and pedal assy integrated together as one unit.

Mine still uses a throttle cable to control the TPS which is on the throttle body.
The signal is sent from the TPS to the ECU. There is a wire labled +BM that carries +12v to the servo. Since I didnt have power hooked up, the butterfly wasnt opening in the video.
My understanding is that toyota setup the last 10% of the butterfly to be opened manually as a "limp mode"

I have the wire hooked up now, and I hope to drive it this weekend.
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Yes it is DBW, I was just curious what year they made the change. I would make it a little easier for future swaps. ;-)

Ryan.

toojayzee said:
Ryan, mines a 00'.

Yours is a strictly DBW looking thru the photos in the album in your sig.
1971 FJ55 Hooptie Project

BTW I lust after your whole whole swap and from 55 to trd charger !
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toojayzee said:
Tapage, I thought I read somewhere that you have a 2uz in yours ?
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I bring a 2004 2UZ to be installed in a buddy 80 .. ( long story project .. unfinished yet ) but that was complete DBW .. I bought at this time the DBW pedal and starter cilinder to make my life easyer with the wiring ..
 
scottryana said:
Yes it is DBW, I was just curious what year they made the change. I would make it a little easier for future swaps. ;-)

Ryan.
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I cant say for sure but Toyota lists one part number for 00'-02' so one could ass-u-me that 03' is when the cross over took place.


Tapage said:
I bring a 2004 2UZ to be installed in a buddy 80 .. ( long story project .. unfinished yet ) but that was complete DBW .. I bought at this time the DBW pedal and starter cilinder to make my life easyer with the wiring ..
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Really, that photo of the rig getting motor dropped in still is unfinished ?
 
I have a few minutes so I thought I would post a few more pix.

Last weekend I added a few pins in the incab and engine bay fuse blocks.

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Heres is what the pins look like that hold the regular size ATS fuses.


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The one shown here has two pins with one 12ga lead. I ran a 12ga from the 8ga terminal in the fuse box for constant power. Now I have two locations for fuses.

In the photo above you can see I added a fuse for the starter relay that I put in the auxiliary camary fuse/relay box. And I have one more spot thats ready for a fuse now.

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Doing a little wiring waiting for the nav to update

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A photo of the crossover from the dual 2" to the single 2.5"
This goes from the driver side over the t-case and connects to the pass side. If I have an opportunity to put it on a lift, i'll take a few photos.

But for now Im not going to post alot of exhaust build photos since its not that exiting, but I am going to say that its very mellow and I like it. Alot.

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Heres what the 95% PNP octopus adapter harness looks like so far. Still a bit more to do.

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I still have all of the connector EC1 to hookup. That has the VSS that will allow the speedo to work. The CDL etc.

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I definatly need to have this rig apraised so I can insure it appropriatly. I would literally cry if something happened after this many hours of labor.


So on to the tach. I havent hear back from Rob as to whether or not he got his tach to work.

The Tundra ECU puts out a square wave signal. The tach is nothing more than a brushless motor. It takes a (sin/cos) + (sin/cos) signal to opperate it. With that said, I have absolutly no idea how to make this work easily.

(Everything i've read indicates that a tach adapter from MSD or Autometer should work. But of the two people ive talked to, they couldnt get them to work due to only seeing 1/8th of the signal needed. The autometer install guide shows that the dodge hemi's need all 8 coils tapped in order to get all 8 parts to the signal. I think im going to try one)


The newer V8 cruisers ie:LX470 had a very similar tach size and shape so worst case scenario, I may be able to find a used cluster from a cash for clunker car that could be a donor.


Heres a pic of the tundra tach


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And heres a photo of the back of the tach




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And a photo of the back of the tundra cluster

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And here, for reference is the FJ

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http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xtHq9hF0QIA/S6anrGsBifI/AAAAAAAAGfo/cBjgivKFbqo/s640/DSC09397.jpg







:popcorn:
 
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I used an aftermarket tach and connected it to the output of the ECU. I sold it before I completely hooked it up, so I am not 100% sure how accurate it was.
 
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