Builds Project - EffjJay Eighty - 2UZ powered (1 Viewer)

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in the stock set up the maf is exposed to engine bay airflow which is road speed partly shielded by the rad plus deflected engine fan flow -- probably less than driving with a window open. in your set up inside the canister the maf is exposed to the full engine airflow demands of the engine. that airflow is generated by engine vacuum not the size of the snorkle opening. a v8 sucks a ton of air so i would think that is a lot more airflow than it would see in a stock location, not to mention air containing more dust, crap and water, than sitting pretty inside the engine bay shielded by the radiator.

if it were me i would figure out some kind of dust/waterproof cover for the maf. maybe just a plastic wrap. mafs are expensive :D

Still not sure exactly what you mean.

On the stock setup, the aluminum body of the MAF is exposed to engine bay air but no portion of the part that actually senses or meters the air. It is also post filter.

The way I have the sensor is still the same as the tundra. It is going to meter the air coming into the motor.
As you mentioned is vacuum. The fact that its a larger motor has nothing to do with how much vacuum it will see. It will still idle between 18-21inches of vacuum and see atmospheric pressure which is 14.7 PSI. Im not refering to boost, but the actual pressure of the atmosphere as measured at sea level. The motor cant see any more than that.

The fact that its inside a can vs in the engine bay doesnt have anything to do with it. Think of it as a shielded cold air intake like you would see on a civic. Still measuring metered air passing thru the filter.

Draw a picture if you feel im lost from what your saying. The
 
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How far away from the filter was the MAF on the stock set up? Depending on the MAF they are sometimes sensitive to having a run of pipe between the MAF and the filter to allow the air flow to straighten out. This results in a better estimation of air volume. Some aftermarket MAFs have reversion, noise cancelling and other functionality to make this a non issue. GM runs gen IV LS motors with both MAF and speed density, using each at different points in their air volume calcuations (I believe MAF at higher flow rates/rpms where there is less reversion and speed density at other times)...

Worst case scenario is that I run the motor with the lid of the airbox off. The maf on the tundra is mounted in the air box about 4" from the filter. Which is approx where it sits now. I measured the CAI on my wifes GS430.
 

semlin

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i am talking about the outside of the maf, including the connection, being exposed to the engine airflow instead of engine bay airflow. as a result, the outside of the maf will see more airflow than usual.

because it is upstream from the air filter it will also be exposed to more dust, moisture and other crap from the outside than it would in its usual location.

so i think you should dust seal/waterproof the outside of the maf.
 

semlin

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just did a rough calculation...

at 3000 rpm a 5 litre v8 consumes roughly 7,500 litres of air per minute, or 265 cfm. pushed through a roughly 3" diameter inlet tube that is about 27 m/s or 60 mph airflow. maybe not so different from inside the engine bay other than the snorkle intake being more likely to suck crap in than through the radiator.
 

Tapage

Club 4X4 Panamá
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My only thought with the MAF in the factory air box it's about the dust .. but probably will see the same or more dust ( with oits, mud etc ) in the engine room ..
 
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I follow what your saying now about the body of the sensor seeing more dirt, though the connector has dielectric grease on the oem weather tite connector so im not too worried about it. But since i've never owned a vech with a snorkle, I have no idea how much debris they collect thru the air box. Time will tell I suppose and I have an extra sensor that i'll be keeping in the glovebox jic along with extra FP, EFI, C/opn relays, bulbs etc...
 
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My only concern would be that the MAF getting the proper reading downstream.

Thenk again, I'm sure he'll hook up a meter to it the first time it is started up and also figure out how to hook a long enough set of wires to it to have a FLUKE hooked up on mapping to get the reads to see if it acts funny at all..

..not that I'm offering up tips or hints, it's not my build. :p




My build got driven this weekend, and I finished my :princess: marker light project. :steer:
 
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My only concern would be that the MAF getting the proper reading downstream.

Thenk again, I'm sure he'll hook up a meter to it the first time it is started up and also figure out how to hook a long enough set of wires to it to have a FLUKE hooked up on mapping to get the reads to see if it acts funny at all..

..not that I'm offering up tips or hints, it's not my build.

My build got driven this weekend, and I finished my marker light project.

Too late to hook up the MM the first time ;)

Isnt the MAF signal a square wave ?


It can test by...

INSPECTION​
1. REMOVE MAF METER
(a) Disconnect the MAF meter connector.
(b) Remove the 2 screws and MAF meter.
2. INSPECT MAF METER
(a) Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between terminals
THA and E2.
Resistance:
Temperature Resistance
–20°C (–4°F) 12.5 – 16.9 kW

20°C (68°F) 2.19 – 2.67 kW

60°C (140°F) 0.50 – 0.68 kW

If the resistance is not as specified, replace the MAF meter.
(b) Inspect for operation.
(1) Connect the MAF meter connector.
(2) Connect the negative (–) terminal cable to the battery.
(3) Turn the ignition switch ON.
(4) Using a voltmeter, connect the positive (+) tester
probe to terminal VG, and negative (–) tester probe
to terminal E2G.
(5) Blow air into the MAF meter, and check that the voltage
fluctuates.
If operation is not as specified, replace the MAF meter.
(6) Turn the ignition switch OFF.
(7) Disconnect the negative (–) terminal cable from the
battery.
(8) Disconnect the MAF meter connector.
3. REINSTALL MAF METER
(a) Install the MAF meter with the 2 screws.
(b) Connect the MAF meter connector.
 

Moby

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Worst case scenario is that I run the motor with the lid of the airbox off. The maf on the tundra is mounted in the air box about 4" from the filter. Which is approx where it sits now. I measured the CAI on my wifes GS430.

The issue is whether the MAF needs a certain amount of pipe to reduced the turbulence induced by the filter itself. If there is physically the same length of pipe between the filter and the MAF as stock then this concern is a non-issue.
 
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The issue is whether the MAF needs a certain amount of pipe to reduced the turbulence induced by the filter itself. If there is physically the same length of pipe between the filter and the MAF as stock then this concern is a non-issue.

I agree that the issue is turbulent/laminar flow, but distance from filter doesn't guaranty flow similar to stock. To get nit picky, whether the sensor is dead center or offset could affect things as well.

Whether this matter or not, I don't pretend to know. If I was designing this, I'd move it further from the filter. Since it's already made, I'd try it and see if you have any issues.

Interesting note: On K&N products for the this Tundra, they move the MAF further from the filter when it is a cone filter but not when they use a stock-ish filter.
 
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Peru
First of All, THX!!!!!

Then one cuestion, what are you doing with the Suspention, you will have to modifi something in the engine?
 
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You can see the MAF right by the box.
57-9027.jpg


Now the MAF is about ~6inches from filter. 2 posts above and left of K&N logo:
77-9027KP.jpg
 
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First of All, THX!!!!!

Then one cuestion, what are you doing with the Suspention, you will have to modifi something in the engine?

If your talking about my 80. It has a EMU 2+" lift. Thats it.
I didnt modify anything with the engine itself. Time will tell, but I may need to use a LS400 oilpan like Rob did.
 
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I´ve seen that problem in my FJ80, here are the 2 Oilpan types.

4379234483_130ebf66c5_b.jpg


4379990216_507fa192b9_b.jpg



I Think I will have to change that part.

If I use a lift Kit, I will not need it?:rolleyes:

This one can solve the problem?

4384551555_31068825e7_b.jpg


I will make the same Job, but my FJ80 is 5 gear H150 Gear Box :doh:
4379261063_7f6f9e9a20_o.jpg




Thx four Your time...
 
Last edited:
Joined
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I´ve seen that problem in my FJ80, here are the 2 Oilpan types.
I Think I will have to change that part.

If I use a lift Kit, I will not need it?:rolleyes:

This one can solve the problem?
I will make the same Job, but my FJ80 is 5 gear H150 Gear Box :doh:
4379261063_7f6f9e9a20_o.jpg




Thx four Your time...

Did you buy that swap above ? I almost bought that just to get the SC a few nights ago. My lift allows the sub pan to clear and the sump has a few inches. The pan listed below from beaufort is the same as the early LS400 iirc


thx for the link
 
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MAF read procedure..yep, that's the process, also note the diffuser screen there above the filter on the factory application that in some way likely cleans up the air flow going past the meter. My concern is the location in relation to your cone filter and the, how to say it, rough, venturic air flow it will see right there, possibly harming the quality of the read or possibly the meter itself.

Worst case you destroy the meter and have to move it though, right? :popcorn:

*As for the Toyota Marine app's, they're sweeetttt, alm ost as nice as a turbo'd Volvo Penta! :)
 
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Got a few parts tonight. Some more coming tomorrow night and a few more the following day.

Tonight I picked up a very small trans cooler to use as a PS cooler

DSC09172.jpg


Just for size reference. I havent thought about placement yet.

DSC09173.jpg



Some hard steel line to use for the trans cooler so I can have minimal soft lines

DSC09178.jpg



And to round it out, a cheap ass muffler that will hopefully be somewhat quiet

DSC09175.jpg





EDIT: I have nofuking idea why there are white frame boarders around the photos




:flamingo:
 
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just so you know, the thrush welded mufflers are the exact thing as a flowmaster muffler, sans quality. I worked at oreillys for a while and we had both cut in half, looked nearly identical. We did a sells day and put one on either side of some older ford truck, both sides sounded identical.
 

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