Builds Project - EffjJay Eighty - 2UZ powered

[toojayzee]

The AC lines on this swap are a challenge.

The compressor is so tight to the steering box, the two fittings right off the pump are going to be custom fab.

These compressors are used in alot different auto applications so they have multiple mounting bosses.

I tried moving this mount stud and testing a few of the other leftover AC lines that I had laying around. No luck. Also in the name of clearance, I went to a bolt in lieu of the stud.

A little work on the headers

I crawled under the rig and back out what feels like a billion times during the test fit, tack weld, sharpie, cut grind and tack process. Probably more like 40 but still.

We have a weiner ! Pass side done

Driver side done

 

[toojayzee]

I chased the threads on the exhaust studs and nuts to make sure the corrosion wouldnt lead to crossthread-age

So this doesnt happen

A little wiring

Heavy duty lugs for grounding

The .01cent wire striper I use on wire thats 8ga or larger

You may be asking yourself why im using red wire for a ground. Its because I had 30' left. I wrap it in a layer of black e-tape so it doesnt get confused.

A little micro torch that I mentioned earlier

Then use a rough wire wheel to scuff up the copper and get the protective coating off

Try to seal it to prevent unwanted corrosion in the wire sheathing

 

[toojayzee]

Whoever invented these deserves a big sloppy kiss on the mouth

A little more wiring. 0ga ground

Im sure the majority of you guys know how large 0ga is, but for those of you that dont. Thats a bolt thats on your rig that takes a 17mm socket to remove

Mmmm yummy 0ga ground

One 4ga from the block to the battery (replaced the stock 8ga ground)
Then added a 0ga from that ground point on the block to the motor mount thats part of the frame. The ground area was cleaned and sanded to bare metal, and the lug was ground to copper and attatched.

A few zip ties to clean things up a bit

 

[toojayzee]

MAJOR SNAFFU ! The driver side rear COP is directly under the brake booster. I had to pull the drivers side motor mount and drop the motor. Hopefully this wont be an issue. Assuming I dont have to replace the plug, the coil doesnt fail and I dont suck in a few gallons of water I should be ok. If the latter of the three happens, I have alot more to worry about.

Dropped in some of these and didnt look back. I just cant see spending all that time to redo both front motor mounts and the crossmember...

Gettin closer

Spent about 1/2hr rebending the dip stick tube so it clears the header, the ac pump and the power steering box/rag joint and still allows the saftey cover over the rag joint

Cut up the stock mount tab and reused a part of it

Gettin tight in there

Finished with a coat of protective paint

 

[Muleysam]

Nice work.

How hard would it be to loosen and move the brake booster to get to that plug instead of lowering the motor.

 

[ilikesnow]

cant wait to see it all finished

 

[toojayzee]

Nice work.

How hard would it be to loosen and move the brake booster to get to that plug instead of lowering the motor.

I think it would be a motherfawker. I would have to remove a lot of parts under the dash. It's worth looking into though.

 

[cruiserdan]

Moving the booster around is a huge pain-in-the-ass. I would rather monkey with a motor mount.

 

[semlin]

for future reference, is there room to move the engine forward in the bay?

other thought is whether you could fab an adaptor bracket and a harness extension and install the cop upside down?

 

[Moby]

I chased the threads on the exhaust studs and nuts to make sure the corrosion wouldnt lead to crossthread-age

Just for the record - those nuts look like typical Toyota high temperature mechanical lock nuts. They are a single use item. If you tap them you remove this feature. At least on the exhaust manifold to downpipe flanges on my 3FE if I even re-use these nuts they always work their way loose. Something to watch for down the road (or maybe just replace them now if replacing them later will be difficult).

 

[rutbeer]

Looks like it might be easier just to swap a solid axle into a 100 series.....

but that wouldn't be as much fun!
Don't know how sensitive the engine would be, but what if you took a spark plug boot/wire and cut it off, then cut the end of the COP off? You could resolder or crimp the shortie spark plug wire into the end of the COP so you basically have a remote. You would need something to push the plug down onto the end of the sparkplug, but I think that would be an easy tool to fab/modify.

 

[Tapage]

Just for the record - those nuts look like typical Toyota high temperature mechanical lock nuts. They are a single use item. If you tap them you remove this feature. At least on the exhaust manifold to downpipe flanges on my 3FE if I even re-use these nuts they always work their way loose. Something to watch for down the road (or maybe just replace them now if replacing them later will be difficult).

thought they are available at local dealer .. any idea on the price .. ?

 

[smkymntn]

You are my new hero- cant wait to see this thing run.

 

[Moby]

thought they are available at local dealer .. any idea on the price .. ?

I get them from my local dealer who gives me the "enthusiast" price on everything. I don't remember the exact price for these though, but not outrageous.

 

[semlin]

i used new lock nuts when i did the hg on the 1fze. they were part of a big order but iirc not much from dan.

 

[tdkhelene]

I think it would be a motherfawker. I would have to remove a lot of parts under the dash. It's worth looking into though.

I don't know a lot about what's inside the brake booster, but would it be detrimental to "massage" the booster housing a bit to allow the plug and COP to slide in?

 

[rutbeer]

Don't remember why, but early broncos have the booster mounted at 45 deg to clear something.

 

[Gimmie Green]

WOW!!! Subscribed. Just read this whole thread in one sitting. Im a 40 guy who now wants an 80.

 

[toojayzee]

for future reference, is there room to move the engine forward in the bay?

other thought is whether you could fab an adaptor bracket and a harness extension and install the cop upside down?

You could certainly move the engine forward, but I was worried about the front drive shaft being too short and binding at full flex.
On the COP the coil and tube that connects to the plug is all one part. If the engine were moved forward 1/2" I wouldnt have had that problem. Something to watch for you future swappers.

Just for the record - those nuts look like typical Toyota high temperature mechanical lock nuts. They are a single use item. If you tap them you remove this feature. At least on the exhaust manifold to downpipe flanges on my 3FE if I even re-use these nuts they always work their way loose. Something to watch for down the road (or maybe just replace them now if replacing them later will be difficult).

Good catch. I forgot to mention that I did recrimp the tops a bit, but im sure they are cheap enough.

 

[NorCalBorn]

Just for the record - those nuts look like typical Toyota high temperature mechanical lock nuts. They are a single use item. If you tap them you remove this feature. At least on the exhaust manifold to downpipe flanges on my 3FE if I even re-use these nuts they always work their way loose. Something to watch for down the road (or maybe just replace them now if replacing them later will be difficult).

Just so I have seconded this, we tried recrimping the tops on my old 80 exhaust stud nuts also, they're not reusable and the threads are actually a little tight to start with when new, sort of a built-in locking/intentional crossthread feature.