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Builds Project - EffjJay Eighty - 2UZ powered (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter toojayzee
- Start date
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ferocious
Heh, are you going to be able to close the hood?
I wouldn't. Better yet i would get a clear hood !
I smell a turbo in your future...or two
- Thread starter
- #185
semlin
curmudgeon
subscribed
this is a great thread. you do good work jayzee. can't wait to see if the hybrid transmission fix works. that starts to make it plug and play
this is a great thread. you do good work jayzee. can't wait to see if the hybrid transmission fix works. that starts to make it plug and play
- Thread starter
- #188
Glad you guys are liking it as much as I enjoy building it !
After reading this thread I feel pretty silly about my build.
Great work
Great work
- Thread starter
- #190
After reading this thread I feel pretty silly about my build.
Great work
Thank you. Never feel bad about your own build. Just the fact that we all work on our own cars is great. Funny thing is I dont feel my skills are that great either, but I really enjoy it anyway.
Think about all the people that dont work on cars, and can barely find the gas cap to fuel up.
Quick question (and I may have missed it while reading through the thread), does the 2uz mate right up to the tranny out of a '97 80-series?
- Thread starter
- #192
With the 2uz bellhousing it will bolt to the 97' A343. Thats what I have in there. Post #81 on page three shows photos
semlin
curmudgeon
this is the coolest part of this build to me. if the mix and match of the valve body works to allow the tundra ecu to control the cruiser transmission then this gets rid of a significant ecu control issue. in think that only leaves getting the dash instruments to work as wiring issues.
- Thread starter
- #194
I'll be working on the instruments soon. I may try to hybrid the tundra tach. Not sure yet. Rob is working on this issue now too as far as im aware.
He also came up with a fix for the DBW/Cruise control issue.
The speedo should be a non issue. The water temp and volt meter as well.
I'm about to start a supra swap in my '94 pickup, and in researching all the options available I found something somewhere that the tach could be made to work by soldering a small resistor to the back of the tach. That may be something to look at on your swap, the operating voltage (or wattage, i don't know electronics) differences between the LC and the Tundra.
BTW, thanks for the answer. I tend to get picture happy after a few pages, and skim the in depth info. Must've missed it completely.
BTW, thanks for the answer. I tend to get picture happy after a few pages, and skim the in depth info. Must've missed it completely.
A buddy of mine just finished putting a 3RZ-FE from a Taco in his '84 mini-truck and he had to solder in a resistor for his tach to work properly.
- Thread starter
- #197
I presume you have read the 2jz swap page on PBB from bigtoy302 ? http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=759603
Im not sure of the differences but some of the COP motors work on some tachs and not others. Hopefully Rob will chime in.
The 3rz is already 4cyl too so that may have helped.
I read a ton of stuff about COP vs dizzy's and why the COP changes the PPM signals into squarewave but other than that I cant eleaborate until I have some personal experience.
I have a 302 in my 94' p/u and didnt have to do anything other than turn the factory potentiometer to get the rpm correct.
EDIT: Added a link to the 2JZ-GTE powered yota above
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- Thread starter
- #198
Got a lil bit done tonight. Some wiring, some misc test fitting and what not. Random mish-mash of photos
The throttle body cleaned up.
In retrospect, I should have left the cast finish on the throttle body and painted the intake manifold black. Still looks good imo
A little copper spray on this gasket too
I dont know what the stock size ground wire is on the FJ but this one was a pair. One 12ga and one 16ga wire. Im going 4ga grounds in multiple areas and one 0ga ground wire from the frame to the block.
The tundra alternator power wire looks like 8-10ga by guessing. Mine was chopped off when I got it. So since im looking at doing the seqioua 150a alternator I figured this is the right time to go with a 4ga while I have such easy access. Left to right. 0ga, 4ga, and what I think is 8-10ga factory tundra alt wire. Just for reference
The alternator connector. I would have just used a regular 4ga lug for a stereo but I liked how this one had tabs to keep it from rotating, so I took the crimps apart and soldered the new one to it. When I do normal lugs, I put the lug in a vise and heat it with a micro torch while filling it with soldier and set the wire in while still feeding solider into it. Then throw some heat shrink over it. I've never had a failure that way. I dont have a professional crimper and 1 in 10 of my large gauge crimps used to fail till I was taught this soldering method.
Its not pretty but its solid. I may end up going back to a thicker lug eventually. We'll see
With plastic saftey cover (I call it the anti welding protective thingy)
The alternator has the built in voltage regulator which like most has, three wires. Those three and the harness got taped to the 4ga just like they were from the factory.
Then covered in wire loom. The ends are electrical taped and a few places in the middle.
In my earlier automotive tinkering days, my wiring was remotely clean but I always think the cleaner the better.
Zip ties are an excellent way to clean things up.
I would do a full engine bay wire tuck on this project, like my other cars where all the wires, exterior sensors and soleniods are relocated and hidden, but I started thinking what the hell would I do in the middle of the woods if I couldnt get to an ignition coil wire to get get a spark plug out.
Things a little more bolted together
The throttle body cleaned up.
In retrospect, I should have left the cast finish on the throttle body and painted the intake manifold black. Still looks good imo
A little copper spray on this gasket too
I dont know what the stock size ground wire is on the FJ but this one was a pair. One 12ga and one 16ga wire. Im going 4ga grounds in multiple areas and one 0ga ground wire from the frame to the block.
The tundra alternator power wire looks like 8-10ga by guessing. Mine was chopped off when I got it. So since im looking at doing the seqioua 150a alternator I figured this is the right time to go with a 4ga while I have such easy access. Left to right. 0ga, 4ga, and what I think is 8-10ga factory tundra alt wire. Just for reference
The alternator connector. I would have just used a regular 4ga lug for a stereo but I liked how this one had tabs to keep it from rotating, so I took the crimps apart and soldered the new one to it. When I do normal lugs, I put the lug in a vise and heat it with a micro torch while filling it with soldier and set the wire in while still feeding solider into it. Then throw some heat shrink over it. I've never had a failure that way. I dont have a professional crimper and 1 in 10 of my large gauge crimps used to fail till I was taught this soldering method.
Its not pretty but its solid. I may end up going back to a thicker lug eventually. We'll see
With plastic saftey cover (I call it the anti welding protective thingy)
The alternator has the built in voltage regulator which like most has, three wires. Those three and the harness got taped to the 4ga just like they were from the factory.
Then covered in wire loom. The ends are electrical taped and a few places in the middle.
In my earlier automotive tinkering days, my wiring was remotely clean but I always think the cleaner the better.
Zip ties are an excellent way to clean things up.
I would do a full engine bay wire tuck on this project, like my other cars where all the wires, exterior sensors and soleniods are relocated and hidden, but I started thinking what the hell would I do in the middle of the woods if I couldnt get to an ignition coil wire to get get a spark plug out.
Things a little more bolted together
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- Thread starter
- #199
I started seeing what I could do with a mockup of the intake piping (factory tundra pipe) Not intending to use this piece permanantly, just checking clearances
What it should look like mated to the factory air cleaner
Heres your WTF of the night. The small canister on the bottom of the factory FJ air box must be to trap silt ?
Mine trapped bees
Thats about all I have to share right now. I hope to work on it again tomorrow evening.
What it should look like mated to the factory air cleaner
Heres your WTF of the night. The small canister on the bottom of the factory FJ air box must be to trap silt ?
Mine trapped bees
Thats about all I have to share right now. I hope to work on it again tomorrow evening.
I think this is my favorite thread right now.....just awesome work, the engine is beautiful. 