I broke my back when I was younger so now everytime I move I hear a popif only we knew then what we know now
You heard the saying "Too soon old, too late smart"? Ask me how I know, BTDT.
Don
Builds Project - EffjJay Eighty - 2UZ powered (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter toojayzee
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
You heard the saying "Too soon old, too late smart"? Ask me how I know, BTDT.
Don
If you have a computer you share with the wife, make a screen saver with a bunch of photos of 80's
Club and friend pressure is more than enough it seems, she's OK'ing the idea when the budget's right.
In the meantime all this electrical chat finally instigated me to pull the side panels on the Runner and rerun some stereo stuff along with the amp and signal wire.
Then I got all obsessed and took care or rechecking the torque on the headers, etc. 6 hours later my back and shoulders are sore, but no more little things on my list skipped.
Last edited:
You are going to have to bring this beast to a Seattle Cruiserhead meet when your are done. Even if your not interested in being a regular... maybe I can bribe you with free beer.
- Thread starter
- #244
I got the beast fired up last night. Im still working on the wiring but tonight I had some dramma with the EFI relay and wiring.
I know guys swap out wires and such for the stock relay, but someone here needs to convince me to not just replace the whole damn thing wiring and all.
With larger gauge wire and a standard over the counter 30A bosch relay since I have a few dozen left over.
I know guys swap out wires and such for the stock relay, but someone here needs to convince me to not just replace the whole damn thing wiring and all.
With larger gauge wire and a standard over the counter 30A bosch relay since I have a few dozen left over.
As long as you remember to switch the two side leads since Toyota's are grounded differently either way you should be fine.
- Thread starter
- #246
Yea I wouldnt re-use any of the stock parts. I have bosch wire harnesses that I would run. On one hand I want to do this, and the other I want to retain the OEM factor. Though I think I would keep this in the cab...
- Thread starter
- #247
Alrighty then. Time for some updates.
I picked up a 7 OEM EFI relays at the pull a part yesterday for 5 bux.
Which let to me....against my better judgment, spending quite a few hours running new wires for the stock EFI relay. I used all the factory connectors, so that took me forever.
The EB1 connector. Like many others have said the wires were undersized from the factory for what they were asked to do. Mine were very brittle.
Removed the connectors and wire to upsize it a few gauges
Female spade
The trouble spot in the underhood fuse/relay block
The stock EFI power wire is the 14gaY/R. (I think its 14, maybe 16?)
The wire I upgraded to is 12ga B/R (courtesy of the tundra)
And the smaller wires looked like 18ga. And they went to 14ga in the tundra color scheme
Look how scrawny the oem wire was...
Mmmm beefy
Despite all that work I really wish I would have just ditched that POS and gone with the tundra EFI relay. So simple, but im not going to look back with buts and what ifs since they work well for the most part.
I picked up a 7 OEM EFI relays at the pull a part yesterday for 5 bux.
Which let to me....against my better judgment, spending quite a few hours running new wires for the stock EFI relay. I used all the factory connectors, so that took me forever.
The EB1 connector. Like many others have said the wires were undersized from the factory for what they were asked to do. Mine were very brittle.
Removed the connectors and wire to upsize it a few gauges
Female spade
The trouble spot in the underhood fuse/relay block
The stock EFI power wire is the 14gaY/R. (I think its 14, maybe 16?)
The wire I upgraded to is 12ga B/R (courtesy of the tundra)
And the smaller wires looked like 18ga. And they went to 14ga in the tundra color scheme
Look how scrawny the oem wire was...
Mmmm beefy
Despite all that work I really wish I would have just ditched that POS and gone with the tundra EFI relay. So simple, but im not going to look back with buts and what ifs since they work well for the most part.
- Thread starter
- #248
The fuel pump and c/opn relay from the tundra
Right out of the tundra fuse box
I want to keep everything as clean as possible so im debating. Do I use these relays mounted securely with female spades ? Do I search the pull a part for a box that is small and can house these ? or go with bosch's for these ?
I took out a sh1t load of wiring that the PO's did under the dash. Very scary. Im suprised some of it didnt burn the rig to the ground.
A small portion of what came out. Misc unused wiring from previous stereo installs. Wiring for the aftermarket lights etc...
Complete with residential lamp cord and wire nuts !
I have several of the OEM auxiliary light switches. Does anyone know where to get OEM connectors for these ? Some of these were soldered and some were just slipped on. Uhm...scary...
Right out of the tundra fuse box
I want to keep everything as clean as possible so im debating. Do I use these relays mounted securely with female spades ? Do I search the pull a part for a box that is small and can house these ? or go with bosch's for these ?
I took out a sh1t load of wiring that the PO's did under the dash. Very scary. Im suprised some of it didnt burn the rig to the ground.
A small portion of what came out. Misc unused wiring from previous stereo installs. Wiring for the aftermarket lights etc...
Complete with residential lamp cord and wire nuts ! 
I have several of the OEM auxiliary light switches. Does anyone know where to get OEM connectors for these ? Some of these were soldered and some were just slipped on. Uhm...scary...
- Thread starter
- #249
I mounted the stock air box. I have a shy 3/8" of clearance between the valve cover and the box. Not sure what I should do here. Leave it or cut the air box and make a little relief.
Im working on a few other things as well, but ill wait till I can post the photos of before and afters prior to posting.
Im working on a few other things as well, but ill wait till I can post the photos of before and afters prior to posting.
excellent OCD build. subscribed.
Wiring, don't feel bad, I did the same when integrating those 90's Corolla marker/turns into my grille area. As for the ext-cord wiring, look at AAtlas's build, he found a joint, "peace pipe"-keychain, food scraps and whatnot, and you expect anything less? 
[EDIT] Eff-it, just notch the airbox. **You did call if the EffJJay, so Eff-it's apply. Left what I originally put just in case you want to try it.
Airbox, get full on primo and carefully break the mounting legs/tabs loose, cut/bend one or two of the legs a little bit to relocate it at least an inch, see if you can relocate it just right and still be able to use the factory hose and not have the hood hit it or the top of the cleaner..
..or just notch it and save 5 hours of b.s.'ing with it.
*You might even be able to get away with breaking loose just two of them and pivoting it just right??
I'm thinking around 15-20 degrees clockwise, again, so the factory air pipe will still be within use, bot not too sure how it will affect the intake pipe side.
.
[EDIT] Eff-it, just notch the airbox. **You did call if the EffJJay, so Eff-it's apply. Left what I originally put just in case you want to try it.
Airbox, get full on primo and carefully break the mounting legs/tabs loose, cut/bend one or two of the legs a little bit to relocate it at least an inch, see if you can relocate it just right and still be able to use the factory hose and not have the hood hit it or the top of the cleaner..
..or just notch it and save 5 hours of b.s.'ing with it.
*You might even be able to get away with breaking loose just two of them and pivoting it just right??
I'm thinking around 15-20 degrees clockwise, again, so the factory air pipe will still be within use, bot not too sure how it will affect the intake pipe side.
.
Last edited:
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
yes you have room to move the air filter box at least 1 or 2" to the fender .. that will give you more safety clearance ..
I'd say remove it and see if there's a TRD cold intake w/ cone filter that you can get for that motor. Or fab up your own cone filter set up. You'd free up quite a bit of room that way.
I mounted the stock air box. I have a shy 3/8" of clearance between the valve cover and the box. Not sure what I should do here. Leave it or cut the air box and make a little relief.
Im working on a few other things as well, but ill wait till I can post the photos of before and afters prior to posting.
I would stick with the FJZ80 intake. Especially since you already have the interfacing Safari Snorkel.
Exposed cone filters get dusty and wet way too easy. I actually think we have a great intake design. Easy access filter changes/cleans. Easily emptied dust/water trap. Large filter.
- Thread starter
- #255
I came up with what I think is a pretty cool idea that will able me to retain the snorkel. Stay tuned
The stock filter is a good design, but not really the correct design for this application. The whole unit will suffer from the heat of the engine. It may be a good short term solution, but in the long run you'd want some of the rubber & plastic bits in there further away.
A heat shield or lots of reflective tape may help though...
A heat shield or lots of reflective tape may help though...
Waggoner5
SILVER Star
Stay with the stock 80 series canister and adapt to it. Your snorkel will keep air temps down.
I used to race imports, and I've heard it before, but I've never seen any actual data to support it.
I'm not saying I'm an expert in cars, but I have designed some aircraft environmental control system. (Mechanical Engineer for military aerospace)
In my experience, thermal properties of the duct material has little bearing on performance in the temperature ranges we are talking about. (I'd say less than 130F which is pain threshold) Most important is durability in the given environment followed by weight (aerospace thing). Even though metal with 2 coats of paint is more thermally conductive than a comparable plastic, the delta T is relatively small and the flow is relatively high negating the importance. You may see higher intake temp at idle, when flow is low, but generally you only care about IAT when the throttle is down.
Taking a guess, I'd assume air source temp is 100x more important then the conductive/insulation properties of the intake.
semlin
curmudgeon
three identical lengths of flat bar with two 6mm holes drilled in each, three 1/2" riser washers, three longer 6mm bolts and three 6mm locknuts and bolts will relocate that canister pretty easily.
- Thread starter
- #260
Heres what I've decided on. It will be in a rubber boot so I can swivel it. Forward for rain water and cold air ram induction for massive gains upwards of .012hp that will match with the K&N decal. Or backwards with pantyhose over the hole for filtration use when submerged under water.
LMAO J/K
LMAO J/K
