Project Dumpy - '88 chassis cab dump truck (1 Viewer)

[justinhw]

Hey all,
Picked up a 1988 mini truck, mini dump truck that is. Goal is to make it reliable and use as intended. It was hard for me to find a short wheelbase model and this was the only one I've seen locally.

It is a dually, with the fronts being the same rims as the rear (I've seen a lot of 5 lug fronts with dually rears, which I think are conversions?).

Driver door window didn't really work, so I took out the mechanism and it was just wallowed out. I think I'm going to just get one of those reman ones off ebay?

22RE with an A43D auto trans. The radiator trans cooling line was bypassed and someone installed a trans cooler at some point which is probably a good thing.

Started to diagnose a misfire, started to pull a plug and it just came apart

No idea how well it was connecting prior to me stripping it, so I guess my first order of business is getting new wires, plugs too while I'm at it.


Interior is pretty rough. Looking now for the plastic pieces around the doors. I'm guessing they are pretty interchangeable from most toyotas of the 80's?

If anyone has some spares I can buy let me know.

There is a radio but no speakers...

and the "HVAC" leaves a lot to be desired

Has a bracket as if it had A/C at one point, but no compressor or lines. Haven't looked into the dash to see if there is an evaporator in there or not.

Chassis code - I figured out the RN55L means 112" wheelbase, but the SRTEA3W doesn't match the info I can find online.

I have 4.1 gears 8" axle full floating looks like which I think is awesome that it came stock like this.

This inside the cab is blank or faded over the years.. best I can tell from a PDF online of the specs of different models is that the GWVR is 5500lbs - what I've read is the frames are all the same even 1/2 to 1 ton just the suspension, brakes (I assume).

 

[pappy]

Screw Ebay. Go to Rockauto.com and get an AISIN window regulator.

Window cranks are still available from Toyota. Brown was available recently. Not sure about now.

The heater bezel is also still available from Toyota. Shop a discount dealer to take the sting out.

 

[justinhw]

Screw Ebay. Go to Rockauto.com and get an AISIN window regulator.

Window cranks are still available from Toyota. Brown was available recently. Not sure about now.

The heater bezel is also still available from Toyota. Shop a discount dealer to take the sting out.

Oh man I just ordered the eBay one I’ll try cancelling it. Thanks for the tip.

For the cranks I never thought dealer I’ll go ask if they have that and trim and see how much of the kids college fund they need

 

[aztoyman]

Cool truck. I bought an 86 Xtra Cab truck that was cut in half just for the cab. It happed to have the same A43D auto trans that you have. I still have the trans and EVERYTHING that was attached to it. Steering column and shifter, linkage to the trans and carburetor, converter, cooler lines, I mean everything. So if you need parts for it....

The aftermarket window cranks break really easy. The stuff like the handle escutcheons are pretty decent.

Good luck with your project.

 

[justinhw]

Cool truck. I bought an 86 Xtra Cab truck that was cut in half just for the cab. It happed to have the same A43D auto trans that you have. I still have the trans and EVERYTHING that was attached to it. Steering column and shifter, linkage to the trans and carburetor, converter, cooler lines, I mean everything. So if you need parts for it....

The aftermarket window cranks break really easy. The stuff like the handle escutcheons are pretty decent.

Good luck with your project.

Thanks I may take you up on that so I may rebuild one then swap it when the original takes a dump. Would just need the trans and torque converter I’m thinking. I’ll message you.

 

[justinhw]

Took the valve cover off - doesn't look too bad

Chain looked fair, guides were intact

I am learning there were different vacuum systems. The motor in my truck is not original and I don't know what year it's from. It has a throttle body missing a vacuum line here:

Well not missing per-ce, just was made that way.

Also doesn't have the Idle air control valve right under the throttle body, it's separate down here:

I don't know if that is a new or older style.

The air line that feeds air to it is cracked but just slightly. May be small source of vacuum leak.

The throttle body itself has coolant lines to it, but doesn't do anything. Maybe to prevent icing in cold weather?

I have half a mind to just get rid of the coolant lines to the throttle body/IACV and delete the IACV. It rarely gets below 60F here. I figure to reduce sources of future vacuum leaks.

 

[justinhw]

The sensor on the right sends temp data to the ECU. "water temp switch."

It is a resistance sensor - and that splice probably doesn't help with those values

If resistance is high the ECU will think the motor is cold all the time. I'll try soldering the connection.

 

[justinhw]

Tested the TPS while I have the throttle body out - I think it checks out. It is an aftermarket junky one, but at least I think it is a working junky one.

There was only 1 screw holding it in, so I'll try putting some allen bolts on it (M4-0.7 x 16mm socket head bolts), so I can adjust it in the future without needing to remove the throttle body.

 

[justinhw]

Just for my own learning I traced some of the lines. This large one closer to the timing chain than the PCV, is connected to the intake, but routed to before the throttle - this takes clean/metered, atmospheric pressure air and brings it to the crankcase to replace the air pulled into the intake through vacuum when the PCV valve is open. I guess it's important that the air is metered because the extra air coming into the engine from the PCV has to be accounted for somehow. That would mean if the oil fill cap or oil dipstick was open potentially there would be some sort of mismatch, maybe not significant.

That circled on the left on the back of the throttle body goes to this:

on the left side (right side goes to idle screw)

which ultimately goes here:

Sorry if this is boring everyone, I do this basically to document to myself in the future. I have another truck that I didn't work on for 7 years and looking back at my old posts helped me remember what i was doing

 

[aztoyman]

It's been a while since I had a 22RE so I'd have to look up stuff at this point. I do remember that the socket head screws in the TPS makes it a LOT easier to adjust VS the OEM screws.

Pirate has a pretty good Toyota "Bible" for reference. Lots of guys here that still have them and have a lot of knowledge so hopefully answer any questions.

 

[justinhw]

Dump works well and is freakin' awesome.

The plastic on the control broke and I have to jump it with the wire - but I found the part number Monarch 03240

 

[justinhw]

Intake gummed from EGR and oil vapor - I'm thinking of making a catch can

This makes the rear axle easy to work on

 

[justinhw]

Heater core was bypassed previously - I don't really need it anyways. I'll probably just blow some compressed air in the heater core to make sure it's drained out and I think I can just cap off the motor side hoses rather than bypass?

 

[aztoyman]

I've seen where engines ran hot after looping the engine side heater hoses on a couple. Stopped when blocked off. I'm guessing it's because some of the water just recirculates in the block vs going through the rad?

Looks like you're moving right along on this project.

 

[jgranthevagrant]

Pretty sure the water temp intake sensor and TPS are still available from Toyota. I know I got the sensor pretty recently. Might be easier than soldering. I suck at soldering.

 

[WoodsTruck]

That's going to be a handy little truck when you get it up and running.

 

[justinhw]

Pretty sure the water temp intake sensor and TPS are still available from Toyota. I know I got the sensor pretty recently. Might be easier than soldering. I suck at soldering.

I’m not sure if the sensor works or not, but I think I would need to replace the pigtail- or replace the pin inside that connector. I may have to do that if I mess it up with is very likely.

I was debating just replacing the TPS while I’m there but I’m not sure what to buy because I see them on LCE for different model years that overlap.

 

[justinhw]

Well I called 22re performance and they set me straight- part 89452-20050. They said those are about the same 84-mid 88, evidently after 89 can be tricky

 

[justinhw]

At first I thought there may have been another bad splice on these wires from the distributor but after peeling it back it is just insulation around the wires. Never seen that before, maybe to reduce electrical noise?

IACV coolant lines are pretty plugged

Took it out for now

The bypass ends up here - I will have to plug it

There is a coolant line next to the thermostat that I will have to plug, as well as this

Door pull was all bent up - had to straighten it

Someone cored out the thermostat - new one on the way. I bet it had overheating issues.. not a good sign.

Spark plugs

Cyl 1 and 2 (left, right)

3 and 4

Big size difference but I love how the toyo is 1 ton and the ford is 3/4 ton

 

[PAToyota]

I contemplated doing a dump truck...