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- #21
Reduced parasitc loss, resulting in slightly better MPG and HP. Also since I am planning on going aftermarket ECU, the fan can be programed as a function of coolant temp, and can better keep the coolant at an optimal temp.
Builds Project "Devil Frog" - Isaac's '69 FJ40
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Reduced parasitc loss, resulting in slightly better MPG and HP. Also since I am planning on going aftermarket ECU, the fan can be programed as a function of coolant temp, and can better keep the coolant at an optimal temp.
Maybe not. That electric fan will pull lots of battery power which is replaced by the alternator. You have a choice ... pull energy through the alternator to turn the fan, or directly turn a fan clutch. I'm not convinced electric fans are more fuel wise.
Coolant temp will be determined by the thermostat, not the fan.
Coolant temp will be determined by the thermostat, not the fan.
I would think that an engine would lose less power turning an alternator to generate electricity than the amount of power lost turning a fan through air.
DanS HJ-45
SILVER Star
The faux-lux (which has an electric fan) has been fine for it. That said, if at all possible, I'd get an electric fan with two fans, controlled completely separately from one another. One from the ECU, and the other from a variable fan controller. I have had my fan fail, and have had my fan control fail in the 5 years since conversion. If I could fit a dual fan setup in there, I would, if only to get redundant power sources and control for them.
The biggest upside for me of the electric fan is that it doesn't run all that often, and doesn't spin at all when I first start the truck and it's wicked cold in the winter. Helps it warm up a good bit faster to have no air moving around the engine bay. It's also noticeably smoother with the fan off, but I don't notice a huge efficiency difference from driving around with the fan on vs. off.
If you do a lot of highway driving, the electric fan will almost never turn itself on, which is good for efficiency. On the trail though, it turns on and off so much that I often just switch it on to avoid wearing out the fan relay with constant cycling. Similar story driving through town. I have a pretty weak alternator (the Toyota alternators with vacuum pumps on them are just not strong) so I wish I could get a mechanical fan in there for that reason alone. A 50A alternator doesn't leave a whole lot when the fan draws 25A.
Marc: I suspect that a mechanical clutch is a more efficient way to turn a fan than via alternator, but that the fact that an electric fan can be off so much more of the time is what bumps them up in efficiency...
Either way, post more pics! That is a sexy motor!
Dan
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- #25
Not entirely true, else a vehicle would not have a fan that could be turned on or off (by whatever means). While the thermostat valve is the primary coolant temp control actuator, it can become saturated. Think, on a 120 deg summer day, 90% humidity, you are crawling your rig up a massive hill, and your engine is working hard, coolant temp is rising. Once that thermostat is open fully, thats it! can't do anything else, your water pump and mechanical fan (clutch is fully engaged cause its damn hot!) are limited by RPMs, and you are not cruising down the freeway @2700 RPM or (2000 RPM for you H55 guys!) providing steady fan speed. This is where an e-fan can be blowing constant cool air across your radiator regardless of engine speed.
Dan nails all the other points below
to that a thermal clutched fan is light years better than an old school fixed fan
Also an electric fan is engineered for a specific rpm which makes it more efficient.
I'm confused. Does the 3F block still have a hole for a mechanical fuel pump? Or is this a 2F bottom end?
I saw that in the picture and I expected that the block was a 2F block. But then there wasn't p/s mounts on the passenger side (at least not where they are on a 2F), so I was confused 
I am kinda surprised that Toyota kept the hole on U.S. market 3FEs, seeing as they all came fuel injected. But then again, I'm kinda not, since Toyota likes to keep stuff interchangeable. So is there an OEM blockoff plate I presume for that hole?
I am kinda surprised that Toyota kept the hole on U.S. market 3FEs, seeing as they all came fuel injected. But then again, I'm kinda not, since Toyota likes to keep stuff interchangeable. So is there an OEM blockoff plate I presume for that hole?
Yep, there is a plate.
Also, on the 22RE there is a fuel block off plate.
Also, on the 22RE there is a fuel block off plate.
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- #31
All sealed up now.
-and no difference in a 3FE and 3F bottom end, just that the 3F was never sold in the states.
-and no difference in a 3FE and 3F bottom end, just that the 3F was never sold in the states.
The most interesting thing in that last photo is your goofy barefoot running shoe.
Hmmm...Wonder if that block off plate will also work for the EGR block off on a 2F?
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- #34
Source3 said:
I am thinking of the expansion plug solution. Another rip off from Jon
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- #36
Working on the 62 ps convesion.
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- #37
I could not find a good answer on what to do for a drag link to make this work. Any help?
What is at the pass. side to hook to?
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- #39
pappy said:
Stock drag link is still attached. Can it be used ? If so what rod end is needed?
I seem to recall the taper is different than mini-truck and FJ60+. If the taper is the same as FJ60/80, then you can get a drag-link from Marlin, with FZJ80 rod ends. He will cut the rod custom. I have some FZJ80 rod ends you can try in the taper if you want.
