- Thread starter
- #61
I hear you! it's not too much of a problem, but I do remember the studying it took to learn my last electrical system...
Project 16
- Thread starter BionicCruiser
- Start date
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I hear you! it's not too much of a problem, but I do remember the studying it took to learn my last electrical system...
Marc, you will get queasy when you see Danise driving her Cruiser!
Sorry, you just make it too easy.
It doesn't take much.
Shawn, I think I missed it but is your plan now to put the 80-series drivetrain in the 60-series frame with a custom 45/flatbed body?
- Thread starter
- #65
yes. with the $ saved, I may get the 80 series crawler gears. no need for a double tcase now...
$799.00 on sale at Marlin.
You will also need to do output seals and bearings at the same time--easy insurance.
Robbie has done a bunch of these and the write up on Marlin Crawler site is good. The one here is good too.
You will also need to do output seals and bearings at the same time--easy insurance.
Robbie has done a bunch of these and the write up on Marlin Crawler site is good. The one here is good too.
There were minor injuries only, two occupants. The owner was in the dealership the morning after it rolled.
The 80 does a remarkable job of protecting who's inside.
This one gave it's all for one of my clients in Texas a couple weeks ago.
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- Thread starter
- #68
agreed, they do! I was surprised at the deformity of the A pillar on it though. but the area where the driver's head would be was still intact. cars now a days do very well. safety has come a long way. I see many car crashes, and the low level of injury always amazes me.
- Thread starter
- #69
a little more done. I pulled the old 2F out finally and put in the 1FZ suspended with some ratchet straps so I could check some clearances. I may go with an electric fan to make a little more room. it's tight from bib to firewall. also may have to cut out the floor over the tcase so I can get the body a little lower and still keep a fairly flat belly. pics-
alia176
SILVER Star
Seeing as how your family is ready for a wagon for future wheeling needs, doesn't it make more sense to do all this in the 60 series you grabbed from Marc? This way, you won't be needing a 80 series.
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- Thread starter
- #71
if you meant "doesn't it make more sense to put all this in the 60 series you grabbed from Marc?"
then, you aren't paying attention. this thread is for the 60 I got from Marc. and yes the hope is that I won't need another vehicle. Jill or the boys can drive this truck and I will drive my 40.
- Thread starter
- #72
here's another of the trans hump area. I'm starting to dig this thing!
Yeah, this "was" the 60 he got from me, until he used the body to practice with all his rescue equipment and dismantled it in a matter of hours.
alia176
SILVER Star
Ahh, got it. I'm with y'all now. I was hoping to see a 60 body on a 80 chassis, that'd be so uber cool.
- Thread starter
- #75
after talking w/ you at the meeting, I see what you were saying. we are still looking for an 80. a good deal will fall upon us. and I will have the 40 worked on again soon.
You're gonna need a really long trailer for this mutt your building + Bionic + Bionic's Trailer....
- Thread starter
- #77
I'm estimating a 30' goose neck.
- Thread starter
- #78
well, I gotta get some pics, but I cut the floor out to fit the tcase, figured out the basic placement of the engine and body and cut off several of the old body mounts. I need to hit the U-pull yard for an electric fan. next is to fab mounts for the front bib, radiator, then engine mounts. after that is complete the cab and make a roll cage and frame/body mounts for that. I'll try to get pics this week.
- Thread starter
- #79
so here is the cut out rear floor and the issue with the radiator. 2nd pic is the FJ40 radiator mount. fan fits perfect and the mount into the frame is an easy 2 tabs with holes. 3rd is the FJ60 radiator. not much bigger, and no bracket to mount. I'd have to make upright brackets and mounts, then modify the headlights to fit the rad between them.
