Heck you could just epoxy a working chip beside the ignition behind the trim and use any regular key that would fit the physical lock, tuck yoru master away somewhere and not wory about the whole transponder mess, but then you loose the security feature.
Programming a Transponder Key for 99 TLC (1 Viewer)
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New to the forum, found it while researching key programming for my 2002 Land Cruiser.
My process:
Bought a 2002 only to find out it only came with one key and it was the valet key. Went to my local locksmith who was able to cut me new master key from VIN number. He then plugged in his programmer under the steering wheel, near accelerator, and set my new key as a master, as well as changing over my valet to a master. No need to flash the ECM on a 2002. Cost for new key and programming was $65.
Next went online and bought a blank key fob remote for $120, had it cut for $1. Then followed instructions on previous page to both program transponder and remote. No problems.
Thanks for the great info on this site, saved me a couple hundred bucks over going to a dealer.
My process:
Bought a 2002 only to find out it only came with one key and it was the valet key. Went to my local locksmith who was able to cut me new master key from VIN number. He then plugged in his programmer under the steering wheel, near accelerator, and set my new key as a master, as well as changing over my valet to a master. No need to flash the ECM on a 2002. Cost for new key and programming was $65.
Next went online and bought a blank key fob remote for $120, had it cut for $1. Then followed instructions on previous page to both program transponder and remote. No problems.
Thanks for the great info on this site, saved me a couple hundred bucks over going to a dealer.
I have a question that I hope someone here can answer:
Topoguide's awesome write-up includes this section:
"Program new key (sequence I – 2003+):
1. Simultaneously depress and release brake and accelerator pedals 1 time.
2. Insert existing master key into ignition.
3. Within 15 seconds depress and release accelerator pedal 5 times.
4. Within 20 seconds open and close the “driver side” door 6 times and remove key.
5. Within 10 seconds insert new key into ignition.
6. Turn the ignition cylinder ON and leave on for two minutes.
7. Turn ignition cylinder OFF and remove new key
8. Open and close the “driver side” door 1 (one) time.
9. After 60 seconds new key is registered and security light goes off.
10. Remove new key and depress and release brake pedal 1 time."
Notice that the new key is removed in step 7 and then removed again in step 10 but was never reinserted? Anyone got any input?
I hope to program a new key this weekend.
Topoguide's awesome write-up includes this section:
"Program new key (sequence I – 2003+):
1. Simultaneously depress and release brake and accelerator pedals 1 time.
2. Insert existing master key into ignition.
3. Within 15 seconds depress and release accelerator pedal 5 times.
4. Within 20 seconds open and close the “driver side” door 6 times and remove key.
5. Within 10 seconds insert new key into ignition.
6. Turn the ignition cylinder ON and leave on for two minutes.
7. Turn ignition cylinder OFF and remove new key
8. Open and close the “driver side” door 1 (one) time.
9. After 60 seconds new key is registered and security light goes off.
10. Remove new key and depress and release brake pedal 1 time."
Notice that the new key is removed in step 7 and then removed again in step 10 but was never reinserted? Anyone got any input?
I hope to program a new key this weekend.
FWIW, I followed the guide EXACTLY (I thought!), probably 50 times before I got it to work. I almost gave up. It seems you have to do it just right, but it does work.
Thanks for the props on the write up. As for that last step... I saw that but left it as I could not test to verify one way or the other. From everything I read depressing the brake pedal is what ends the programming process. So my guess would be that you do not have to reinsert the key, just mash the brake pedal following completion of step 9 and hopefully you'll be done.
If that does not work after a few tries and you are positive your timing is correct I would suggest leaving the key in at step 7 so you can remove it in step 10 and see if that works.
Whatever happens post up your results. I can edit my write up to include the correct key removal wording... and you can verify that starting in 05 you can manually program the key again.
Good luck.
So I am one of the fools that bought a rig without a master key.:whoops:
I failed to do "all" my research when it came to this purchase. I have "some sort" of master key, with a fob built in. It unlocks all the doors, and the glove box, but will not start the engine. I also had a grey valet key that is the only one to start the engine, but doesn't open the glove box.
So, after reading all the stuff on here, and sweating bullets, I went to Toyota to ask them about it. Yup, new computer, $1800. I basically laughed out loud and said, okay...so what's the option for normal people when they have this problem. He said, "go to Ace hardware around the corner and they can copy your valet key as many times as you want"
I went to ACE and bought two new valet keys, so I can have three keys to start the vehicle. $69.95 for each key, and it was done in about 5 minutes. Of course AFTER leaving I realized that I should have asked him to "code" the chip to the valet, but cut the key to the non-working master I had...that way my valet-coded keys would still work on the glove box. Darn.
This isn't a perfect solution, but it gets me three keys (or more if I want) to start this vehicle should one decide to get lost on a trail. Maybe down the road I will drop another $130 and have valet keys made to work in the glove box, but for now I don't care.
Can anyone see a reason that having only a bunch of valet keys is a bad thing? This is the first (and last) vehicle I will every buy with this stupid chipped key crap, so to me...a key that unlocks the rig and starts it is just like every key that I have ever had before
.
In my mind, this issue is done...but please let me know if I am wrong.
I failed to do "all" my research when it came to this purchase. I have "some sort" of master key, with a fob built in. It unlocks all the doors, and the glove box, but will not start the engine. I also had a grey valet key that is the only one to start the engine, but doesn't open the glove box.
So, after reading all the stuff on here, and sweating bullets, I went to Toyota to ask them about it. Yup, new computer, $1800. I basically laughed out loud and said, okay...so what's the option for normal people when they have this problem. He said, "go to Ace hardware around the corner and they can copy your valet key as many times as you want"
I went to ACE and bought two new valet keys, so I can have three keys to start the vehicle. $69.95 for each key, and it was done in about 5 minutes. Of course AFTER leaving I realized that I should have asked him to "code" the chip to the valet, but cut the key to the non-working master I had...that way my valet-coded keys would still work on the glove box. Darn.
This isn't a perfect solution, but it gets me three keys (or more if I want) to start this vehicle should one decide to get lost on a trail. Maybe down the road I will drop another $130 and have valet keys made to work in the glove box, but for now I don't care.
Can anyone see a reason that having only a bunch of valet keys is a bad thing? This is the first (and last) vehicle I will every buy with this stupid chipped key crap, so to me...a key that unlocks the rig and starts it is just like every key that I have ever had before
.In my mind, this issue is done...but please let me know if I am wrong.
Just curious 5Cruiser. Were all of your keys on the same key ring when the Ace cut keys were used to start the engine?
The reason I ask is that all the keys, including the Valet, are chipped. This means that the computer has to have the chip for each key programmed into it in order for the engine to run using each key. At least that is how it is supposed to work, otherwise it would be a pretty pointless theft deterrent system.
If you tested the new keys with the working Valet key close enough to the ignition switch the computer could have recognized that key and allowed the engine to run. If that is the case, and your truck works like it is supposed to, if you lose the working Valet key the other keys will not work. The obvious test for this is to use one of the Ace keys leaving the working Valet key outside of your truck.
As for another option, it depends on the year of your truck and the money you are willing to part with. The earlier model years (pre 2003) can be reflashed by a professional and new/existing keys programmed in; the Valet key can be made a master during this process as well. The other/cheaper method has been discussed by others in detail, and I know a couple Mud members use it (at least according to their posts).
The reason I ask is that all the keys, including the Valet, are chipped. This means that the computer has to have the chip for each key programmed into it in order for the engine to run using each key. At least that is how it is supposed to work, otherwise it would be a pretty pointless theft deterrent system.
If you tested the new keys with the working Valet key close enough to the ignition switch the computer could have recognized that key and allowed the engine to run. If that is the case, and your truck works like it is supposed to, if you lose the working Valet key the other keys will not work. The obvious test for this is to use one of the Ace keys leaving the working Valet key outside of your truck.
As for another option, it depends on the year of your truck and the money you are willing to part with. The earlier model years (pre 2003) can be reflashed by a professional and new/existing keys programmed in; the Valet key can be made a master during this process as well. The other/cheaper method has been discussed by others in detail, and I know a couple Mud members use it (at least according to their posts).
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Alright joining the party here... after realizing my new Home Depot keys will do nothing more than open the doors, I picked up two transponder keys from ebay tonight.. will be attempting to program them next week some time when they arrive. I've also got just one remote key, so I may pick up one of those at some point too, based on my success here...
I'm really looking for something I can hide outside the vehicle, in case I lock the keys in or lose them while hiking or something.. I guess the Depot key would address one of those..
I'm really looking for something I can hide outside the vehicle, in case I lock the keys in or lose them while hiking or something.. I guess the Depot key would address one of those..
Nope, all were separated and all worked. I have one of the ACE hardware keys all by itself on my keychain now and it works fine.
I tried using my one "master" key (that doesn't work and only opens the doors) in the ignition while holding the valet key in all kinds of ways near the ignition. Nothing. I don't think that idea works. I get the idea the chip has to be literally in just the right spot...where it actually has to be in the key being used.
I would recommend everyone with this problem to look up their nearest ACE and see if they make "chip keys" From what I understand they "clone" the key. The computer in the car doesn't know that I have more than one valet key, so when any of them are used it just thinks the one is being used.
So far it's working fine, but the "original" valet key will be my hidden key, just in case something goes freaky in the computer while out in the wild.
Again I ask...what the heck does it really matter to have a "master" key as long as I have enough keys and they all open the doors and start the engine?
What is so special about this stupid "master" key? and why would I care?
As a current owner of four Toyotas, and a big fan of them, this is the FIRST thing that has come up that really puts a ding against Toyota in my mind. This key thing is the stupidest thing in the world.
I see, it's a clone (including chip) of the working Valet key. That's kind of scary. Prior to cloning the chips one would have to have the truck and a master key in their possession to create a key that would be able to be used to drive the truck away. Now all that is needed is the key... well I guess I knew this day would come. 
What year is your truck? Maybe my chip is not being cloned yet. I know some people view this as a ding against Toyota, but I appreciate the effort put into making my truck more secure. Without the proper key someone would have to flatbed my truck away or replace the ECU for the key (no small process)... at least prior to cloning.
To your question: It is, as I mentioned above, a theft deterrent. The master is used to program the ECU, without the ability to clone keys you can not duplicate a key if you don't have a master. The valet is designed to give to people so that they can park/drive your car without you risking having a key made to steal your car later. Also using the master key you can remove keys, say if you thought one was lost or stolen you could make it so that key no longer worked (once back in your possession you could add it again). As to what the big deal is: With the ability to clone your key it would appear to not be that big of a deal.
Bottom line is if you don't care about the anti-theft abilities of the chipped key then
. It seems you found a cheap solution.
As for the other key not working. Others have hid the chip portion of a working key behind the dash close to the ignition. I have heard this is close enough for the chip to be read and allow the incorrectly chipped key to work... but I have not tried it personally.
What year is your truck? Maybe my chip is not being cloned yet. I know some people view this as a ding against Toyota, but I appreciate the effort put into making my truck more secure. Without the proper key someone would have to flatbed my truck away or replace the ECU for the key (no small process)... at least prior to cloning.
To your question: It is, as I mentioned above, a theft deterrent. The master is used to program the ECU, without the ability to clone keys you can not duplicate a key if you don't have a master. The valet is designed to give to people so that they can park/drive your car without you risking having a key made to steal your car later. Also using the master key you can remove keys, say if you thought one was lost or stolen you could make it so that key no longer worked (once back in your possession you could add it again). As to what the big deal is: With the ability to clone your key it would appear to not be that big of a deal.
Bottom line is if you don't care about the anti-theft abilities of the chipped key then
. It seems you found a cheap solution.As for the other key not working. Others have hid the chip portion of a working key behind the dash close to the ignition. I have heard this is close enough for the chip to be read and allow the incorrectly chipped key to work... but I have not tried it personally.
Hello,
I fell into this same trap, thought I had researched all the important items before buying the Cruiser, but I ended up with only one key for my new-to-me '99 (luckily it's the master).
Will this key on ebay work to program as an additional master after it's cut to match my existing key? Seems too good to be true for $99, especially as compared to dealer prices.
Thanks,
Chris
I fell into this same trap, thought I had researched all the important items before buying the Cruiser, but I ended up with only one key for my new-to-me '99 (luckily it's the master).
Will this key on ebay work to program as an additional master after it's cut to match my existing key? Seems too good to be true for $99, especially as compared to dealer prices.
Thanks,
Chris
Chris, not sure. You have a '99 so you have a better chance than those with '03+.
I would suggest looking at user ratings to see if others have had issues. You can also do a search on here I believe there are others who have posted about keys that don't work. The better sellers will have a money back guarantee. Good luck.
I would suggest looking at user ratings to see if others have had issues. You can also do a search on here I believe there are others who have posted about keys that don't work. The better sellers will have a money back guarantee. Good luck.
I used one like that on ebay. I am not sure if it will become the master key which would let you use it to program the other keys or not. IIRC someone mentioned that the last key programed becomes the master. I think I found mine on ebay for $69 or so.
Can anyone tell me if the JDM 100 series have the security stuff in the wiring or do they run a different system?
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Ok I just wasted a bunch of time following those steps on this page above.. what was killing me was the 2 minute wait, there's no way the instructions would really say that right? So then I tried the instructions from post 1 of this thread and it worked. I will paste here for clarification:
Quite a few differences, instead of open and close the door it's depress the brake, etc. I hope this helps someone else in the future...
BTW my ebay keys arrived and I had them cut at the Depot.. 1 down, 1 more to program...
edit: now 2 for 2 on the above method.
Quite a few differences, instead of open and close the door it's depress the brake, etc. I hope this helps someone else in the future...
BTW my ebay keys arrived and I had them cut at the Depot.. 1 down, 1 more to program...
edit: now 2 for 2 on the above method.
Last edited:
I need to get around to doing this. My problem isn't will missing keys, it's with an extremely worn or damaged switch. Both keys work, but they don't always go in straight and have to be re-inserted. So I'm going to order a new switch and key blanks. Then move the fobs over.
So my question: can any locksmith that the new cylinder and key it to match? My concern is my keys are also worn (rounded) and I'm afraid this may hamper his ability.
So my question: can any locksmith that the new cylinder and key it to match? My concern is my keys are also worn (rounded) and I'm afraid this may hamper his ability.
I would get a new blank cut to the VIN specs at the dealer and have the copies/cylinder made from that. You don't need a $300 key just a physical blank match or a Valet key cut as a master.
Maybe having a good cut on the key will solve the cylinder problem.
Maybe, but the cylinder looks and feels very worn.
But good idea on getting a new blank cut at the dealer.
To cut a key to VIN specs you need the key code. The dealer can supply the key code, but they require positive ID of ownership before they will give it out.
I asked and the dealer wanted nearly $30 to cut a key from the key code while a local locksmith said he would do the key code cutting for $10.
I finally successfully filled all 4 key memories and 2 remote memory spots in my '01 Land Cruiser. It was a long time coming and I'm pretty happy about it.
I asked and the dealer wanted nearly $30 to cut a key from the key code while a local locksmith said he would do the key code cutting for $10.
I finally successfully filled all 4 key memories and 2 remote memory spots in my '01 Land Cruiser. It was a long time coming and I'm pretty happy about it.
