Programming a Transponder Key for 99 TLC (2 Viewers)

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I bought two "naked" (w/o remote opener) transponder keys from local lock smith a few years ago, and had them cut.
The programming instructions I got from the lock smith match exactly what "mainecruiser" has in his post (04-09-04, 07:47 PM). It worked perfectly when I did mine!

I also have the "delete" instructions if anyone wants to delete all keys (apart from master). Could be good if buying a used truck where keys are missing or straying. Deleting the keys at least prevents them from (easily) driving away with your new rig.
 
programming

jonah tapert said:
what a pain ...i have the instructions from the key and toyota ...not the same and neather one work ... toyota will re program it for 1 to 1&1\2 hrs what a deal.:mad:
Click to expand...
1 1/2 hrs seems extreme. Did you try the instructions on this thread as well?
 
Last edited:
OK, I have read this entire thread and I am confused: Master, Transponder, Remote, etc.

Which keys are which and how do we identify them? It sounds as if not all remote entry keys are masters. I have two remote entry keys - do I have a master?
 
Do the programming instructions work for a 2003 also? I see most of these replies apply to 98-2001's. I just bought two master blanks from CDAN for a Camry and hope they will work.

NSP
 
Remote, Master, and Transponder keys...

EdsCruisin said:
OK, I have read this entire thread and I am confused: Master, Transponder, Remote, etc.

Which keys are which and how do we identify them? It sounds as if not all remote entry keys are masters. I have two remote entry keys - do I have a master?
Click to expand...

OK, not been "on" for a while, but will try to explain this.

First: All keys (that work) in the LC are "transponder" keys. They have a little coil built into the key "head". There's an antenna around the ignition key hole, and you can only start the car with a key that responds back with a correct signal (i.e. a "transponder key" that has been correctly programmed).
Essentially, the ECU sends out a "ping" and expects a correct "ping" back from the key. If no correct answer, no start!

Master key can be "any" key. A functioning key you use to program OR delete all other keys from the ECU (nifty if you are buying a used LC and want to ensure that there are no other keys out there that will work), then the key you use to "delete" with becomes the master key.
I think the ECU will "remember" up to four keys.

Remote key: A key with the remote (opening function) built into the key "head". Since these can be expensive, many older LC instead have a "transponder BUT not remote" key (looks like any ordinary key), since previous owners have lost or broken the "remote" key and (like me) been to cheap to buy a factory key from Toyota.

Summary:
Transponder: All LC keys
Remote: Only with "buttons"
Master: Key used to program (or delete) other keys.

Maybe made this overly complicated, but was in a writing mood...:)
 
Wellcraft19 said:
OK, not been "on" for a while, but will try to explain this.

First: All keys (that work) in the LC are "transponder" keys. They have a little coil built into the key "head". There's an antenna around the ignition key hole, and you can only start the car with a key that responds back with a correct signal (i.e. a "transponder key" that has been correctly programmed).
Essentially, the ECU sends out a "ping" and expects a correct "ping" back from the key. If no correct answer, no start!

Master key can be "any" key. A functioning key you use to program OR delete all other keys from the ECU (nifty if you are buying a used LC and want to ensure that there are no other keys out there that will work), then the key you use to "delete" with becomes the master key.
I think the ECU will "remember" up to four keys.

Remote key: A key with the remote (opening function) built into the key "head". Since these can be expensive, many older LC instead have a "transponder BUT not remote" key (looks like any ordinary key), since previous owners have lost or broken the "remote" key and (like me) been to cheap to buy a factory key from Toyota.

Summary:
Transponder: All LC keys
Remote: Only with "buttons"
Master: Key used to program (or delete) other keys.

Maybe made this overly complicated, but was in a writing mood...:)
Click to expand...

Thank you - it was not overly complicated at all. But one question lingers:

How do I know if a key is a master or not? Is there some kind of test procedure short of deleting keys?
 
EdsCruisin said:
Thank you - it was not overly complicated at all. But one question lingers:

How do I know if a key is a master or not? Is there some kind of test procedure short of deleting keys?
Click to expand...

If you only have ONE working key, then that is the master. If you have several keys, the last one you leave programmed in the ECU, is the master. Hence in theory you can have several "masters".
 
Wellcraft19 said:
If you only have ONE working key, then that is the master. If you have several keys, the last one you leave programmed in the ECU, is the master. Hence in theory you can have several "masters".
Click to expand...

Got it - Thanks
 
I just picked up 2 keys off ebay for my 99 LC.

Keys arrived, I had them cut and then used the provided directions to program the first key. Just to be sure that it was a "master" I then used that key to program the next key.

Directions were simple to follow, worked the first time and I now have 3 master keys!!

Here is a link to the sellers ebay page...
http://myworld.ebay.com/mykeyless

Hope this helps,
Rob
 
The dealer couldn't get my transponder programmed, or any of my remote functions. They cut the key fine though. They proceeded to tell me I needed to replace my lock actuator in my door before they could get it to program. I told them to eff-off and I came home and used the instructions posted on this board for both programming and setting up the transponder. Both worked the first time I did it and I then realized they were doing it wrong. They kept leaving the key in the ignition. I hate dealer service. It was nearly a $400 repair just for the actuator that works perfectly fine. I do however, love the incredible amount of info available on these boards though. Thanks to everyone.:cheers:
 
that proceedure is good to know....

Does anyone know what is the limit to the # of Masters you can have (i have 2 old keys that work but are physically broken (the key broke off the casing (which is cracked) )
so potentially i could have 4 masters (buying an OEM one on ebay, 1 is one of the repro ones they sell on ebay)
 
If I remember correctly, the ECU can hold 4 (four) keys. The last key you leave programmed in there, becomes the master.

To make it a bit more clear, you can delete all programmed keys except the one you use while deleting.

If you have ONE working key, it IS the master. You can then "clear out" all other keys and start programming/entering you buy, up to a maximum of three new ones.
 
rlynch356 said:
that proceedure is good to know....

Does anyone know what is the limit to the # of Masters you can have (i have 2 old keys that work but are physically broken (the key broke off the casing (which is cracked) )
so potentially i could have 4 masters (buying an OEM one on ebay, 1 is one of the repro ones they sell on ebay)
Click to expand...

There are "shells" on EBAY right and left as well, you can just swap the guts over to a new shell. :)
 
UPDATE to Original..

Well.... Been reading the posts and never saw anything regarding not being able to "REMOVE ALL MASTER KEYS" from the ECU..

Took the LC with just the VALET key to the Dealer today. Got a NEW Spare VALET key cut and when we plugged in to the ECU, the dealer couldn't REMOVE the CURRENT MASTER (VALET) or DUPLICATE it. with the recently cut SPARE

He kept getting an ERROR message that said to INSERT the MASTER KEY. I thought that whichever key, whether MASTER or VALET at the time, is the MASTER..

Any suggestions to REMOVE the KEYS from the ECU so we can ADD the MASTER (Current VALET) and the DUPLICATE?:confused:
 
OK, due to home remodeling I have not been on line in a while and have not read all new entries, but this is the "deleting instructions" I got from my locksmith when I bought and programmed new keys (for a 1999 LC 100)

QUOTE:
To delete all but one key from the unit (ECM):
1. Simultaneously depress and release brake and accelerator pedals 1 time.
2. Insert an existing master key into the ignition cylinder. Do not turn the key from the OFF (LOCK) position.
3. Within fifteen seconds of inserting the key, depress and release the accelerator pedal six times.
4. Within twenty seconds of completing the above step, depress and release the brake pedal seven times.
5. The security light will flash, indicating all keys other than the one being used have been deleted.
6. Remove the key from the ignition cylinder within ten seconds.
UNQUOTE:

This should clear the ECM of all keys OTHER than the one you just used.
Have not checked if this matches what others have posted, but it did work for me - as did the programming instructions for new keys on the same page. Hopefully this will work even on an 03...

Good Luck!
(now back to home remodling...)

/// Per-Ola
 
Old thread but still extremely helpful. Three keys came with my 99 but one of them wouldn't start the car. It turned over but would not fire up. I went through the steps listed in this thread (took a few times) and the key now works!

For what it's worth, I just went through the steps at a good clip and didn't pay too much attention to the timing. The first two times I tried it I think I went to slowly.
 
Mud does it again! Saved 1 hour of labor ($80) from Toyota programming the key myself. Took less than 5 miunutes and got it on the first time. Followed the instructions in post 1.
 
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