Folks, I had a devil of a time when I first started the attempt to program a new transponder key / keyless remote. I have a 1998 FJ100, which uses the 4C Transponder key type... I had one master key that came with the car (transponder key only -- no remote), and no other keys. I ordered a used key from eBay, had no issues getting the keyless remote to program, but could not get the ECU to go into programming mode or to take the key... I was using topoguide's steps listed earlier in the thread. I don't recall if I tried Locksmith Charlie's at that time -- but if I did, they didn't seem to work...
That was a year or two ago. In the interim, I decided to take it to my local dealership to have it looked at. They told me my existing key was a valet key, programmed a second transponder head key for me (so there were now TWO programmed keys), and thought that having the second key might enable me to add additional keys.
So, I ordered a new key from eBay which arrived today. I went back to topoguide's suggestions on programming the sequence E (type 4C) transponder key. NO LUCK! So, I went and got Locksmith Charlie's instructions again:
http://locksmithcharley.com/transponder/toyota.shtml
I used them, and guess what -- they worked! I then readily programmed the keyless remote portion using topoguide's instructions listed earlier in the thread.
Per Topoguide's info, I am not certain if having the second transponder key has ANYTHING to do with my ability to program a new master. My guess is, probably not... It is more likely that I didn't try Locksmith Charlie's technique the last time around, and only tried Topoguide's. His research is top notch, but I suppose it is possible that there are either ECU variants or that some models just may be more finicky. The major difference between Charlie's and Topoguide's techniques are the lack of the combined accelerator and brake press/depress and the replacement with the exterior door lock/unlock, master key into ignition + vehicle start, and then reinsertion of master key into ignition lock (no turn). The programming steps are otherwise identical.
Regarding timing, I went with an accelerator press/release and a brake press/release over about 1.5 to 2 seconds. One thing that distinguished this successful run was that the immobilizer light (car + key light) stayed off until after I inserted the master to be programmed and depressed/released the accelerator -- after a second or two, it started flashing again. This was different than in any of my prior runs, and within 60 seconds, the light turned off. I removed the new master, depressed/released the brake, and voila!
It took me a couple of years to get here -- but I made it. Hopefully you'll be able to as well -- and without having to use the Toyota ECU replacement program, etc...
Another interesting note -- I had two key shells cut by number by a local locksmith using the key codes from the Toyota dealer for my VIN. However, these weren't done on a continuous cutting machine and had a lot of "bumps". When cut by a Toyota dealer (or perhaps by a locksmith with different equipment), it does a smooth cut without these bumps, which makes the keys work smoothly in the locks. My local Toyota dealer was happy to recut my shells using the new smooth master they had made, and all work quite nicely...
Anyhow -- I hope this information proves to be of some assistance!
Thanks.
--Michael