Programming a Transponder Key for 99 TLC (1 Viewer)

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Well we've had the 2001 LC a week and I've managed to lose the key. I've read through every thread here and I'm thoroughly confused. I assume it was the master key since we only had two - one was black and the other one (the one I lost, or the one someone lost) had the push buttons. We didn't get a grey key.

First I read that it couldn't be replaced without the Master key and then I read it could.

Then on buying a new key - it was a toss up on buying the cheaper transponder key versus the expensive eBay 2001 Land Cruiser Key blank and having it cut. I don't remember my key having that "dot" on the fob but then I didn't have it or use it enough to notice it correctly. I'm scared to spend $70+ and buy the wrong key blank. I'm not sure what the advantage of buying the transponder key would be for since it doesn't look like it would unlock the door remotely and that is what I'm looking for. It would be nice to have an extra key though since we're down to one at this point. Unless - you have to have the transponder key to unlock the steering wheel?
 
My 1999 didn't come with a remote key, it came with two black non remote keys. One of them was programmed as a master and therefore I was able to order a new OEM remote key from Crusierdan @ American Toyota and programmed it myself with the steps in this thread. I think it was around $125ish for a OEM key. Since I had the dealer cut the key by the VIN, I used a cheap Toyota metal blank only to check the cut. It opened the doors and unlocked the steering wheel, but no transponder, no start. After that I felt safe to have it cut by the VIN.

I cant speak of the eBay and cheap knock offs as I have not tried them. The transponder doesn't unlock the steering wheel, it disables the immobilizer and allows the truck to start. The cut of the key is what unlocks the steering wheel. Even the non remote keys have a transponder in them to allow the truck to start.

This is the OEM key I ordered. Works perfect for the doors as well.



 
Programming the transponder and the buttons are two different dances:

1. Hold the key in your hand, drivers door is open all others closed and
drivers door is unlocked.

2. Complete these steps within 5 seconds.
A. Insert the key into the ignition(Do NOT Turn) Pull key out.
B. Insert the key into the ignition(Do NOT Turn) Pull key out.

3. Complete these steps within 40 seconds.
A. Close then open the drivers door.
B. Close then open the drivers door.
C. Insert the key into the ignition(Do NOT Turn) Pull key out.

4. Complete these steps within 40 seconds.
A. Close then open the drivers door.
B. Close then open the drivers door.
C. Insert the key into ignition and leave it in ignition.
D. Close the drivers door.
E. Turn the ignition to ON (Do NOT Start) then back to OFF.
F. Remove the key from the ignition.

5. In less then 4 seconds, the power door locks should lock then unlock automatically
indicating successful entry into programming mode.
Return to step 1 if the locks do not cycle at this point.

6. Complete these steps within 40 seconds.
A. Press the lock and unlock buttons on the remtoe simutaneously for 1.5 seconds.
B. Immediately after letting go of the lock and unlock buttons,
Press the lock button by itself and hold for 2 seconds. Within 3 seconds, the door
locks should lock and then unlock once indicating successful programming. If
the door locks cycle twice, repeat steps A and B in step 6 as the remote was
not accepted.
C. Repeat steps A and B in step 6 for each new remote.

7. Open drivers door.
 
Whoops. I don't quite have the hang of that Quote thing. I tried the "dance" for my 2001 LC new button key several times and this hasn't worked yet. The first post worked for both my new keys (button blank key and regular key) but it will not unlock the doors remotely. They will start the LC though. What am I missing? I tried to also use the door switch as an alternative just in case that worked but it didn't. Toyota wanted $54 to program it.
 
Whoops. I don't quite have the hang of that Quote thing. I tried the "dance" for my 2001 LC new button key several times and this hasn't worked yet. The first post worked for both my new keys (button blank key and regular key) but it will not unlock the doors remotely. They will start the LC though. What am I missing? I tried to also use the door switch as an alternative just in case that worked but it didn't. Toyota wanted $54 to program it.

I had issues with the keyless entry too. It ended up I was doing it too fast and was getting frustrated. I did once slow and cool and it worked. Took me about 25 tries in all, I was about to give up. The key was to remain calm and do it slower. GL
 
Lowpricekeys.com
In the north Bay Area
Santiago

Ordered my oem key from cdan last week and local dealer cut it the day I received it. But I found out my last key I had is valet and not master key so I can't program it. So I called Santiago today to set up time and off went to his place to get this thing done. He encrypted my valet key to my new key. Also program my door lock, unlock, all for way less $$$. I was thinking to contact a locksmith in phoenix to re-flash my ecu, good thing I did search 1st.
 
It's late for me, so I don't have time to read through all 16 pages to see if this info is already included, but in case it helps anyone else:

I just programmed a new keyless remote for a 1998 Lexus LX470. I used RobRed's instructions for Program Remote Key: FSM sequence E from http://tlcfaq.com/main/2013/07/remote-key-programming/ BUT I had to do all the locking and unlocking on the driver's door lock manually rather than using the electric door lock switch as the instructions state.

Get in, lock all doors electrically, unlock driver's door only manually, follow FSM sequence E, but do the locking and unlocking on the driver's door manually, and it worked for me.

Programming the immobilzer was just as this page said (for 1999-2002):
http://tlcfaq.com/main/2013/02/key-programming/


Also, the part number for the 1998 LX470 key, or at least mine, is 89070-60080 rather than 89070-60090 as mentioned in the thread I linked above. Which Lexus told Nalley Toyota Stonecrest that only a Lexus dealer could order, and I've seen a few places it was discontinued. I've got a $5 shell/key blank (147mm) on the way via amazon, and a local locksmith will cut it for me for $25 (already been through this once when the old key body shattered and I moved the guts over, but I wanted a backup master, hence the new key).
 
Anybody can cut your key blank. I had mine cut at two different hardware stores. One was an Ace True Value. With your own blank it'll set you back about $2 per key. Total 4 keys cut and all work great.
 
Anybody can cut your key blank. I had mine cut at two different hardware stores. One was an Ace True Value. With your own blank it'll set you back about $2 per key. Total 4 keys cut and all work great.
Agree you can get an LC key cut pretty much anywhere but LX keys, in snorky18's case, are different in that they have their key profile milled into their faces, not edge cut like an LC. Much harder to find someone willing (at a reasonable price) or able to cut.
 
In my research to figure out how to program keys to my LC I have compiled the following steps for all model year 100 series. I am posting this so that all steps for all models can be found in one list. Please note there are other variations that may work fine, but the below seem to work every time from posts I have read. Hope it helps.
The below information applies to the 4C and 4D transponder keys. The 4C is 1998-2002 also referred to as the “sequence E” programming steps; all steps below work for programming that key. The 4D chip is for 2003+ 100 series, also referred to as “sequence I” programming steps; many steps below will work for all 03+, however the ECU can not be programmed for 03-04 start capability without a computer per FSM (05+ should program with these steps from what I have read).

Also, please note that timing is critical, you must be spot on. If a sequence fails try again making sure the timing is exact. If you are still unable to program the new key into the ECU you may have too many keys programmed; there can be up to 5 master keys and 3 valet keys (per 03-04 FSM). If unsure you can clear all but one master key and program/reprogram any existing keys.

Tell what key you have:
To determine if the key(s) have been properly programmed into the ECM you may utilize the following procedure:

  1. Positively locate the “security” or “anti-theft” light. This light should blink when there is no key in the ignition or if an unrecognized key is placed into the ignition.
  2. Insert the key you have into the ignition – DO NOT TURN ON. There are 3 possible things that may occur:

  • Security light continues to blink = unrecognized key.
  • Security light goes off IMMEDIATELY = MASTER key
  • Security light remains illuminated for 1-3 seconds before going out = VALET key
***FOR ALL PROCEDURES BELOW make sure you start with the following steps unless otherwise stated:

  1. All windows are up
  2. All doors are shut and locked except for the drivers door which should be unlocked

Delete all but one master key:
To delete all but one key from the unit (ECM):

  1. Simultaneously depress and release brake and accelerator pedals 1 time.
  2. Insert an existing master key into the ignition cylinder. Do not turn the key from the OFF (LOCK) position.
  3. Within fifteen seconds of inserting the key, depress and release the accelerator pedal six times.
  4. Within twenty seconds of completing the above step, depress and release the brake pedal seven times.
  5. The security light will flash, indicating all keys other than the one being used have been deleted.
  6. Remove the key from the ignition cylinder within ten seconds.

***Alternative method possibly for sequence I vehicles (2003+)

  1. Insert Master Key and Cycle ignition 6 times (Lock to on then back to lock)
  2. Within 35 seconds open and close Drivers side door 7 (seven) times.
  3. Remove the key from the ignition cylinder within ten seconds.

Program new key (sequence E):

  1. Simultaneously depress and release brake and accelerator pedals 1 time.
  2. Insert existing master key into ignition.
  3. Within 15 seconds depress and release accelerator pedal 5 times.
  4. Within 20 seconds depress and release the brake pedal 6 times and remove key.
  5. Within 10 seconds insert new key into ignition.
  6. Within 10 seconds depress and release the accelerator pedal 1 time.
  7. After 80 seconds new key is registered and security light goes off.
  8. Remove new key and depress and release brake pedal 1 time.

Program new key (sequence I – 2003+):

  1. Simultaneously depress and release brake and accelerator pedals 1 time.
  2. Insert existing master key into ignition.
  3. Within 15 seconds depress and release accelerator pedal 5 times.
  4. Within 20 seconds open and close the “driver side” door 6 times and remove key.
  5. Within 10 seconds insert new key into ignition.
  6. Turn the ignition cylinder ON and leave on for two minutes.
  7. Turn ignition cylinder OFF and remove new key
  8. Open and close the “driver side” door 1 (one) time.
  9. After 60 seconds new key is registered and security light goes off.
  10. Remove new key and depress and release brake pedal 1 time.

Erase Remote Procedure (years this works on unknown):

  1. Make sure no keys are in the ignition lock and the drivers door is open and unlocked.
  2. Put the key in the ignition and remove it.
  3. Press the lock button for 1 second, press the unlock button for 1 second and repeat 5 times.
  4. Close the drivers door and open it.
  5. Press the lock button for 1 second, press the unlock button for 1 second and repeat 5 times.
  6. Put the key in the ignition.
  7. Turn ignition ON for 1 second and then off for 1 second then on for 1 second and remove key.
  8. The power door locks should cycle 2 times.
  9. Press the lock and unlock button for 2 seconds, then press the unlock for 1 second.
  10. If the remote is programmed the doors will cycle once. If failed the doors will cycle 2 times.
  11. Open drivers door to end procedure.

Program Remote: (sequence E)
1. Start with key out of ignition, drivers door is open all others closed and driver’s door is unlocked.
2. Insert key into the ignition (Do NOT Turn) and Pull key out.
3. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.

  • Using the power lock switch on the drivers door, perform 5 lock/unlock cycles starting with lock. Use an even pace and try to go about one cycle per second. (1Cycle = 1 lock and 1 unlock).
  • Close, then open drivers door.
4. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.

  • Using the power lock switch on the drivers door, perform 5 lock/unlock cycles starting with lock. Use an even pace and try to go about one cycle per second. (1Cycle = 1 lock and 1 unlock).
  • Insert the key in the ignition cylinder.
  • Turn the ignition to ON (Do NOT Start) then back to OFF.
  • Remove the key from the ignition.
5. Within 3 seconds the power door locks should cycle automatically indicating successful entry into programming mode. Return to step 1 if the locks do not cycle at this point.
6. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.

  • Press the lock and unlock buttons on the remote simultaneously for 1 second.
  • Immediately after letting go of the lock and unlock buttons, press the lock button by itself and hold for 2 seconds. Within 3 seconds, the door locks should cycle once indicating successful programming. If the door locks do not cycle, or cycle twice. Repeat steps A and B in step 6 as your remote has not been accepted.
  • Repeat steps A and B in step 6 for each new remote.
7. Close drivers door.
Program Remote: (sequence I – 2003+)
1. Start with the key out of the ignition, drivers door is open all others closed and
drivers door is unlocked.
2. Perform these steps within 5 seconds.

  • Insert the key into the ignition(Do NOT Turn) Pull key out.
  • Insert the key into the ignition(Do NOT Turn) Pull key out.
3. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.

  • Close then open the drivers door.
  • Close then open the drivers door.
  • Insert the key into the ignition(Do NOT Turn) Pull key out.
4. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.

  • Close then open the drivers door.
  • Close then open the drivers door.
  • Insert the key into ignition and leave it in ignition.
  • Close the drivers door.
  • Turn the ignition to ON (Do NOT Start) then back to OFF.
  • Remove the key from the ignition.
5. Within 3 seconds, the power door locks should lock then unlock automatically
indicating successful entry into programming mode.
Return to step 1 if the locks do not cycle at this point.
6. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.

  • Press the lock and unlock buttons on the remote simultaneously for 1.5 seconds.
  • Immediately after letting go of the lock and unlock buttons, Press the lock button by itself and hold for 2 seconds. Within 3 seconds, the door locks should lock and then unlock once indicating successful programming. If the door locks cycle twice, repeat steps A and B in step 6 as the remote was not accepted.
  • Repeat steps A and B in step 6 for each new remote.
7. Open drivers door.

When doing the remote programing using sequence E; If your drivers side lock motor is weak (ie the lock does not cycle fully closed/open) the sequence will not work, however if you "help" the lock cycle and this method will work. I used one hand to work the switch and the other to manually lock/unlock the door.
 
Good info rusty_tlc
 
hi guys. Got 98 canadian LX470, bought spare key on ebay and programmed remote locks but can't program key to immo.
When i'm insterting new key + depressing 1 time accelerator pedal the immo light doesn't go on. Any idea?
 
hi guys. Got 98 canadian LX470, bought spare key on ebay and programmed remote locks but can't program key to immo.
When i'm insterting new key + depressing 1 time accelerator pedal the immo light doesn't go on. Any idea?
I would say repeat procedure (slowly) and ensure you follow instruction to the letter.
 
Just curious, are these procedures for programming the master key only (keyless remote key)? I had a key cut at Lowes recently and I didn't have to program anything, it worked right away.
 
Just curious, are these procedures for programming the master key only (keyless remote key)? I had a key cut at Lowes recently and I didn't have to program anything, it worked right away.
No, these are the instructions to program "any" key that you want to work with the immobilizer system (=to get the car to start in the first place).

A "transponder key" contains a small chip that when sent a tiny RF signal by the car, responds with a unique code and that code is picked up by the car, allowing it to start (now I cannot remember on the LC if it "allows" the actual ignition or if it "allows" the fuel pump to operate - result's the same though).

Non-remote after market keys have that tiny chip molded into the plastic "head" of the key. Remote keys have that chip in the actual "remote" that you can easily move over to a new key "shell" should you crack one (I just did that, putting existing chip into a new shell from eBay and having a local locksmith cut that key for $4).

And "master key" has nothing to do with if the key has a remote or not, but from a programming standpoint, it is the last key left/programmed in the ECU. If you lose that key, new ECU is needed. As long as you have one functioning key, you can use that key to delete all other keys (think ECU can hold up to four keys) and it then by default becomes the "master" key.

As to why your car starts (and runs?) w/o having to program a new key likely only points to a faulty immobilizer system. Anyone else with other ideas?
 
Great info! I have no idea why the Lowes key worked instantly. They have a little computer that read my grey key then simply wrote the exact same thing out to the new key. Took like 2 minutes. Was $70 tho.

Funny you mention the immobilizer not working as I thought that right away too. But that same day I also had a non-chipped key cut for $2 and it actually allows the truck to turn over but it never starts. Figured that was proof enough the immobilizer was working.

Reason I picked up 2 new keys (one chipped, one not) is that I wanted to hide the non chipped key under the truck somewhere and then hide this extra chipped key in the truck somewhere. Should keep me safe in the event I loose a key out on the trail or something.
 
Got one more question. During this operations car doors should be closed and locked or just closed?
To be honest, been so long since I did this (although I still have one key I "should" enter, just been lazy...) so I cannot remember. Gut feeling is that the doors were just closed, not locked (as it does not call out for it).
 
Not quite a key topic but I have a 2004 2UZ that I'm replacing. I have a pair of keys matched to a transponder computer but have had to replace the PCM. This whole project is still in pieces but does anyone know if that will work without programming? Are the key codes stored in the PCM or transponder computer? Does the transponder computer have to be coded to the pcm?
 
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