Procedure for replacing 100 series(98 and up) starter contacts (3 Viewers)

[whereditgo]

Not sure if this has been posted or done, but here is a tip if the starter won't kick over and you need to get the truck moving... Only tool needed is a horseshoe stake or similar pipe/lug wrench...

I was on vacation when our starter went on our 1998 LX470 (160K miles). I knew exactly what it was as I previously changed out the starter in our 1999 LC. I did not have the time, tools or ambition to the 4 hr job. From prior experience with bad starters a tap with a hammer could do the trick, but kind of difficult to get the hammer past the intake. My solution was to remove the plastic cover (2 bolts and 2 nuts) to expose the intake. Sure enough you can see the starter between the intake risers on the passenger side. Using the tools at hand at the lake cottage, an iron horseshoe stake easily fit through the two risers, a lite tap and the wife fired it up. Kept it running until home.

 

[hkeller]

Question: Does anyone know if the starter contacts kits and plunger for a 2002 year will fit a starter out of a 2000? Can anyone tell me the part numbers for each year? I am not sure, but I think I have the 2002 kits and I have a 2000 LX470. Thanks in advance.

 

[hkeller]

Bump. Anyone?

 

[spressomon]

Looks like they're the same to me...

 

[hkeller]

Spressomon, I missed this post. Thanks for replying. But it looks like there are two kits depending on year. Will the later year kit fit the earlier year starter?

Anyone?

 

[barrypt5]

Just finished changing the contact.....wow what a job...of course 40 degree weather(working outside) does not help...mostly tedious but getting the manifold out is a chore...would not attempt by myself...

The one piece of advice i would give is....the piece of wood across the fenders is a GOD SEND....would not try the job without it....getting to the backside starter bolts while laying on the wood is MUCH easier (tried it about 10 times before using the wood)

so FYI....use a piece of wood for sure! thanks for all the advice above everyone...really helpful!

barrypt5

 

[scottm]

Agreed, whoever thought of the plank certainly saved my back and sanity. Also the hood, although I just unhooked the air springs and pulled it up until the corners started pressing against the plastic trim around the wipers.

 

[scottm]

I tried pulling up just the back of the manifold, hoping to pull the starter out that way, it's worked on other similar jobs. Couldn't raise it enough without pulling fuel lines, and that turned out to be an easy job. Luckily I'd pulled the fuel pump fuse and cranked the engine before pulling the battery terminal, so minimal fuel spillage.

The drive-by-wire years are easier, no cable. And I left the throttle-body behind to avoid pulling the coolant lines and making a bigger mess. Just two fuel lines, some vacuum lines, and a few electrical plugs.

I did take the electrical box loose behind the manifold, it interfered with the manifold just enough to make it frustrating.

 

[scottm]

A rubber cover on one contact almost came apart when I pried it off, and I broke off a snorkel vent, so now I have a hole in the top of my starter motor. Guess I'll stay out of deep water on my way to the mall.

I used a couple C-clamps to push the contacts flat with a large socket. I'm not sure why a block of wood is specified here.

 

[scottm]

My contacts and plunger didn't look significantly worn at 100k, hopefully this was the reason for failing to start, the battery is fairly new.

 

[APKhaos]

Cranking when the battery is low is the thing most likely to cause contact welding. Low volts = high current, and that sets up the conditions for contact damage. Mine looked terrible, to the point where the actuator piston contact was beyond resurfacing.

 

[scottm]

Cranking when the battery is low is the thing most likely to cause contact welding. Low volts = high current, and that sets up the conditions for contact damage. Mine looked terrible, to the point where the actuator piston contact was beyond resurfacing.

Yeah, as I found out trying to bump the crank bolt loose on my 80, welded those suckers good. I've always had to replace contacts that were pitted badly, never worn like someone posted earlier. I've sanded them and put them back in with good success, but at this price I'll just replace them.

Thanks to CruiserDan and Beno, it's always nice to know I'll have the right parts when I get to that step.

 

[saillaw]

We had flooding here last week and My wife was driving the 2003 LC and apparently drove through some quite deep water judging by the debris on the doors (half way up the outside of the doors). I'm surprised that water did not come into the cab (good door seals?).

However, after driving it this weekend, I noticed that when I turn the key to start, there is often a slight delay between turning to start and the engine turning over (1 or 2 sec). This was not present before. Our LC has ~85K miles on it.

The battery is fairly new, and once the engine starts turning it turns with gusto, so I don't think its a battery problem. Do you think that deep water driving may have damaged the contacts on the starter, or have any other ideas on what might be going on?

Thanks!
Tim

 

[Kev UZJ100]

Tackled this job on Sunday. What a bitch, but its done now and I am proud I was able to accomplish it. Thanks to everyone who posted in this thread it was a huge help. If anyone decides to do this work hit me up with questions for it will be clear in my mind for a few months. I did replace the gaskets, also did the fuel pump, pcv valve and cleaned the throttle body. Truck starts up smooth and runs like a champ.

 

[kuhyuan]

does a re built starter comes with all the new contacts and plunger as a whole assembly?

Not quite sure if its a whole assembly or if the starter is separate piece from the contacts and plunger.

 

[APKhaos]

does a re built starter comes with all the new contacts and plunger as a whole assembly?

Not quite sure if its a whole assembly or if the starter is separate piece from the contacts and plunger.

Its s single assembly - starter and solenoid, which comprises the contacts and plunger.
Its obvious from the pics posted on this and other starter-related threads.

 

[kuhyuan]

I figured it was the entire starter with the contacts and plunger

I only asked because of this Picture

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v645/jahmaka/P1280004.jpg

I apologize for asking, "Its obvious from the pics posted on this and other starter-related threads."

 

[APKhaos]

Wasn't burning you about the pics. Its best to be sure, and that's what this place is for. I replaced the starter rather than doing contacts only on my high-miles starter. Its a longish job to access and work on the starter so the new part made sense for me.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

I found this guy's blog looking for a picture of the throttle body for another thread. Excellent write up with detailed pictures of starter replacement. It's a Tundra, but the principles are the same.

http://www.someguyinnevada.com/toyota-tundra-starter-repair-a-journey-of-discovery

 

[SUMMIT CRUISERS]

Thanks to the OP and everyone that posted on this thread. It sure helped a lot today when I did our 99 LX470 with 81K miles.
A few things that I found helpful were:

I backed up the truck on to ramps and then I removed the front tires/wheels. I then lowered the front lower control arms onto 6"x6" wood blocks. This made it much easier to reach most of the "operation".

I removed the hood struts (and later replaced with new) and tied the hood up into a more vertical position to allow more clearance.

I only removed the bolt that holds the transmission wiring harness which enabled me to move it around and use a long 14mm socket to reach both starter bolts.

I didn't remove the rear coolant crossover line but did remove the two rear wiring harness bolts.

I noticed that the fuel injector isolators/grommets (part # 23291-41010) were severely cracked so I went to the Toyota house and purchased a set for about 3 bucks each. Very simple to replace and provides piece of mind that they won't need to be replaced in the near future.

I disconnected the fuel line at the filter (which I replaced) but removed it from the FPR and intake to reinstall. If I did it again, I would remove the line from the FPR before removing intake to keep from bending the fuel line. A crescent wrench will work here if you don't have a metric wrench big enough (hint...it's bigger than a 19mm).

Here's what I replaced and all is good now.