gear on the starter was pretty chewed up and it kind of damaged the flywheel but nothing I'm going to worry about. Ahhh nice and quick/quiet starting now. Put a 'yota remand unit in.
Procedure for replacing 100 series(98 and up) starter contacts (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter rph74
- Start date
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Followed these instructions step by step and it was a breeze. Truck started perfect first time out. It took about 4 hours with a couple of short breaks. Thank you! One thing I ran ito, the little catch that sticks out on the fuel injector to lock the clip broke off of half of my injectors. None of this stuff has obviously been apart before and some of the plastic was pretty brittle to boot. I used a couple of tiny tabs of high-temp 3M emblem tape inside each side of the clip and wedged them on. They still went on fairly smooth but seem to be going nowhere. I will likey look for some new injectors but they will certainly work in the meantime. The contacts and the plunger were severly worn, but at 210k it would say they held up well.
I think that I read every post but maybe I missed this, Does anyone have a FSM page(s) with the torque settings for the intake and etc that they can post?
I don't know if they're listed, but here's the link to the FSM: Download PDF Toyota Land Cruiser 1998 - 2007 Service Manual | PDFTown.com
Exactly my story from today's work.
The HUGE tip I can contribute to this is to remove the hood. Actually it was my neighbor that came by and chuckled at my 6' 4" self folded up in the engine. It was really easy to remmove the hood with help.
In this photo my fingers are on the "difficult" starter bolt. It was really easy to reach it with this access.
This is a great thread and I found so many helpful posts.
Thanks to all! I am very proud to have done this job successfully!!
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My buddy took some video of the big moment of truth...the removal of the manifold. This video gives you a real good sense of how buried the starter is and how much easier it was to remove with the hood off the rig.
[youtubelrg]GKMd1K5m8-s[/youtubelrg]
EDITED:
I copied the above from another forum where my friends posted this, but its not working here. I am posting from my phone (dead computer) so its not easy for me to post links.
For the good of the community, can someone fix the link? I think the video is really eye opening for folks considering this repair.
[youtubelrg]GKMd1K5m8-s[/youtubelrg]
EDITED:
I copied the above from another forum where my friends posted this, but its not working here. I am posting from my phone (dead computer) so its not easy for me to post links.
For the good of the community, can someone fix the link? I think the video is really eye opening for folks considering this repair.
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Nothing like having helping hands when you need them! 
Torque values
I just read through the entire thread. Nobody seems to reference the torque settings. Tried the link to the FSM but it looks like you need to set up an account.
I just read through the entire thread. Nobody seems to reference the torque settings. Tried the link to the FSM but it looks like you need to set up an account.
A small hint when working on the 100 Series: Jack the back up or drive the back onto ramps so that the front tilts down. Makes it a lot easier to lean over the engine. I've also redone the contacts on my starter and at the same time wired in a tick cable onto the +'ve that sticks out behind the engine so that I can use jumper cables to feed power directly to the starter if the contacts die. If you are in the field and contacts go, then you are stranded!
Great idea PJCB, do you have any pictures or diagrams of what you specifically connected your wiring to on the starter? Have you performed a remote start using this method to verify that it works? If the key is left in the ON position, I'm assuming that the ECU will detect the spinning motor and provide fuel and spark without the need for the key to be in the START position?
No pics or diagrams I'm afraid. Its connected with a lug onto the positive pillar of the starter motor itself. The same place as where the solenoid connects onto the starter. That means there are now two lugs connected to that pillar.
As the starter has been working perfect since I added the cable, I've never been able to test it, but it will work! To use it, I'd get SWAMBO to turn the key to "start" and then use the jumper leads to immediately bridge from the battery +'ve to the cable. Once the engine runs, disconnect and return key to on position.
If it was only me, id jam the key in the on position and run round and connect the jumpers.
As the starter has been working perfect since I added the cable, I've never been able to test it, but it will work! To use it, I'd get SWAMBO to turn the key to "start" and then use the jumper leads to immediately bridge from the battery +'ve to the cable. Once the engine runs, disconnect and return key to on position.
If it was only me, id jam the key in the on position and run round and connect the jumpers.
i'll let others who have done this chime in, but I would think if you pulled the fuel pump fuse you'd be fine bumping it with the manifold removed. obviously, want to keep debris out of the intake runners.
Bench test it.
I bought A Denso remanufactured starter on Amazon.com for $160 w/o a core deposit. I used Auto Parts Warehouse | Car Parts, Truck Parts & Auto Body Parts Online - Free Shipping on most Auto Accessories & Performance Parts – AutoPartsWarehouse for the oem gaskets. This put me just under $200 for parts. Due to recent surgery and for $340 I will bite the bullet and let the mechanic sweat over the motor for the install. At the cost of the labor and he is going to have it apart anyways the mechanic insisted on a new set of lower intake gaskets.
If I were to do it all over... I would still do the work myself, just buy a reman starter instead of trying to rebuild it.
yeah, i wouldnt bother just rebuilding it unless i was going to use it as a spare. I had to replace mine twice in my 98. The first one i bought a referb at Toyota and it lasted 25k miles. unfortunately i moved and couldnt give it back to them. The second one i bought at NAPA and it was a Bosch...worked flawless.
