Pro Comp ES9000 Shock Information and Specs

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Still though, its one thing to match the lengthof the shock you need but do they list the weight of vehicle recommended or anything??? A 12" shock on a 6k lb vehicle is different then a shock on a 3k lb vehicle.

Of the ES lines, the 9000 is matched best to an 80. The 1000 and 3000 are too soft. (This was also Pro Comp's stance.)

They also have some more expensive ones (MX-6), dunno how those would hold up to the weight of an 80.

The 9000's seem to work well for an 80, more than a few people running it. Have heard a couple mentions that it's too soft, could be a really heavy 80 or perhaps springs aren't stiff enough.

FWIW have talked to people who have run 9000's on Mini's, 4-Runners, and a 60 series owner. They've all said that the 9000's are far too stiff for those vehicles. I know of at least one who switched to 3000's and liked them much better.


Shocks have a lifetime warranty, so if you end up not liking them, likely you can resell and make most of your money back. Warranty does transfer to whoever owns them.
 
When I was shopping for shocks, I went with a twin tube instead of a mono tube because the twin tube can take more punishment.

Turns out that was a smart choice.

Was driving to a club meeting, and suddenly couldn't turn very sharp to the right. Left turns were fine, but right turns were limited. Could still turn enough that driving was okay, but obviously there was a problem.

Long story short, the shock bushing destroyed itself over the last few years. When I was originally installing them, the sleeve in the bushing popped out. I've seen bushings without a metal insert before (matter of fact the replacement bushings I got didn't have inserts)...well...turns out they can eventually self destruct. :o

DSC_0122.jpg


Eventually the vibrations caused the nut to back off the bolt, and the shock popped out of the mount. It wedged itself into the steering, which is why I could turn left but not right.

Well, turning the wheel did this:

DSC_0119.jpg


There's a lot of force involved when you turn the steering wheel.

I don't think Pro Comp will ever warranty this one, but it still functions perfectly fine.


Popped in a new bushing (with an insert!), new bolt (with locktite this time), and called it good.
 
Are the 9000's bolt-in? I see in your thread you had to do some welding and modifications to mount yours.

Depends on the ones you choose.

If you want to run the longer travel shocks, you'll need to modify the mounts, especially in the front as stud/stud shocks are rare in long lengths. But if you want to run long travel shocks, you'll either have to modify the mounts to make more room, or drop your bump stops down (wastes up travel). If you run the shocks Pro Comp recommends (in the first post), they'll bolt straight in.


I specified the mounting patterns for all the shocks, so you can see what's required to bolt them in (which mounts have to be modified).
 
I'm either going 7100's or custom set up f.o.a shocks, the 9000's suck in my opinion, great if its a street queen I blew 2 out on the con last year, two months later the other two went, a month after that one of the new ones blew...
 
Ebag333, I had the and issue with the upper mount on the front shock. No damage. But the truck felt different and coming to a stop it would wallow a bit. I ended up looking in the fender well and saw the shock had come loose. I ended up using nylock nuts on all of them. I like how OME used polyurethane bushings for theirs.

I actually had a shock come loose on my old Toyota mini on the freeway. The upper mount came loose on the rear shock and rotated down and hit the axle. Put a huge dent in it. I took it to work and hooked it up to a crane and a gas turbine engine stand with a fat guy on top and pulled the piston past the dent. Worked fine untill they were swapped out. Ghetto at its finest.
 
I'm either going 7100's or custom set up f.o.a shocks, the 9000's suck in my opinion, great if its a street queen I blew 2 out on the con last year, two months later the other two went, a month after that one of the new ones blew...

Well, my trucks a daily driver but not a street queen. I don't wheel as hard as you do, and your 3 link (among other things) definitely changes things.

Coil overs, that's what you need to go to. ;)

Ebag333, I had the and issue with the upper mount on the front shock. No damage. But the truck felt different and coming to a stop it would wallow a bit. I ended up looking in the fender well and saw the shock had come loose. I ended up using nylock nuts on all of them. I like how OME used polyurethane bushings for theirs.

I actually had a shock come loose on my old Toyota mini on the freeway. The upper mount came loose on the rear shock and rotated down and hit the axle. Put a huge dent in it. I took it to work and hooked it up to a crane and a gas turbine engine stand with a fat guy on top and pulled the piston past the dent. Worked fine untill they were swapped out. Ghetto at its finest.

I thought about nylocks, but I've had them come loose before.

Nice fix on your old mini shock. :lol:
 
Just a FYI I order 2 927514 rear shocks and the required bushings were included, no need to spend the extra $4 on ordering them separate.
 
Old thread revival ..

I'm looking for rear shocks .. for Tencha ( my 60 series ) and some how end with what looks like it's the only 12" stroke option that fits my shock required travel ..

Pro Comp 925509 .. and just wanna know which it's the experiences around here running ProComps .. or if there is any other comment / recommendation ..
 
Old thread revival ..

I'm looking for rear shocks .. for Tencha ( my 60 series ) and some how end with what looks like it's the only 12" stroke option that fits my shock required travel ..

Pro Comp 925509 .. and just wanna know which it's the experiences around here running ProComps .. or if there is any other comment / recommendation ..

DO NOT!! run the ProComps. I had them on the truck for ~1k miles and one wheeling trip and killed all four. By kill, I mean I could play the things like an accordion when I took them off to be replaced. I don't know what some guys are willing to accept ride-wise, but they were terrible. The truck wallowed like a 1970's Cadillac on the freeway, and offroad was one terrible slam after another with no body control. I would never recommend these to anyone.
 
I have had PC ES9000s for the past two years with no problems. They are a generic shock and I'm guessing that they are probably made by Monroe because they make a lot of private branded shocks. The come with a "Procomp" sticker in the box. If you bought them from Rancho, they would come with a Rancho sticker; if you bought them from Monroe, they would have the Monroe sticker. You can tell they are related because they look the same and the part number is the same.
 
there is any site where I can perform shock search of different brands based on shock specs, like travel, length ( compress and extended ) ?
 
I think that if you want a good shock that will last forever you need to invest in rebuildable tunable shocks it is really the only way to go
I have run all kinds of brand name shocks over the years and in the end they all suck compared to a really good shock
I have a set of long ass blisteins 7100's sitting on my bench waiting to be rebuilt
I will never have to by another shock again
 
what are you going to use now .?

I switched over to the TJM XGS series shocks. Still a "budget" minded shock, but built very well. The ride is firm and responsive on the road. The trail ride is great. They seem to take big hits like a champ and keep the body under control.

Kidglove is probably right on the rebuildable shock solution, but it wasn't in my budget.
 
If you troll the pirate classifieds on a regular basis decent shocks pop up all the time.

That is where I scored mine for a good price.

The only caveat is that I have to rebuild them but even then I will still be ahead of the game.

I have heard that the ironman shocks are fairly decent
 
I was ready to pull the trigger in Bilsteins .. actually that was my first choice, but I can't find the travel and length I want on 7100 series ..

the 925509 from pro comp have perfect numbers for me ..

Internal Design:Twin-tube
Adjustable:No
Gas Charged:Yes
Extended Length (in):25.740 in.
Collapsed Length (in):15.490 in.
Bushing Material:Rubber
Bushing Color:Black
Boot Included:No
Body Diameter (in):2.360 in.
Upper Mount:Eyelet
Lower Mount:Eyelet

That's why I was asking for place to search different brands ..
 
Tapage - Fox 2.0's from Downsouth Motor Sports are relatively budget friendly and bolt-in. Theres a thread on here...
 
Tapage - Fox 2.0's from Downsouth Motor Sports are relatively budget friendly and bolt-in. Theres a thread on here...

have a link to share ...?
 

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