Just ordered one of these babies for the 200. What's the MPG hit 1.5-2?
Prinsu 200 Series Rack INSTALLED
- Thread starter jdlc1406
- Start date
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I didn't notice any hit to the already abysmal MPG of the 200.
Delete. Edit. I'm a moron. Misplaced some hardware
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Yes, you’re missing 2 spacers. My kit came with 3 short bolts, so clearly the parts monkey isn’t the greatest over there.
2015 LX570 Prinsu Rack Install - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/2015-lx570-prinsu-rack-install.1169712/
lostonaroad
SILVER Star
Took about 3 hours to install, took my time, lost no pieces inside the roof and made sure the thing was water tight PermaTex #2.
Here is a play by play that worked for me.
-In regards to taking the factory bolts out - take your time, I did a half turn on each bolt until I could get them but hand. After I got them by hand I used two hands and feel to get to the end of the bolts. Once at the end of the bolts I waited to feel the thread click on each and tested pulling to get them each out at the same time never pressing down.
-Clean around the yellow pieces extensively and get all the gunk in there GONE. Do this carefully and get it all, this took some time but I felt it to be worth while making sure the Permatex had a good clean surface to stick to.
-The Permatex is a mess but glob it on good, like really good! Once it’s on lay down the spacers. Keep in mind the spacers are now all the same size, I confirmed this is correct with Prinsu As everything I read said they are different sizes.
-I cut an old business card the size of the gutter gap and used to smooth out the Permatex and make sure it was even in all gaps down the gutter and between the spacers.
- I installed each rail individually one side at a time and started in the middle with one bolt then another working my way back then to the front. Keep these bolts semi lose as you’ll have to even out the rack (side to side) once you have center bars installed. Do this on both sides.
- This may go without saying but only install the center bars that don’t have mounting bolts under them first And also don't tighten them all the way.
- Once you have these center bars done stand in front of the truck and see if it is centered side to side. If not, you can adjust side to side as you didn’t tighten those roof bolts down yet. You’ll see if it looks off and keep in mind out front on the wind faring they’ll purtrude out slightly until the fairings in tightened down.
-tighten roof bolts
- Add center bars after that cover the roof bolts
-Snug everything up and add the fairing.
- Once done added more permatex on top where you see gaps.
Hope it helps some other like me.
Here is a play by play that worked for me.
-In regards to taking the factory bolts out - take your time, I did a half turn on each bolt until I could get them but hand. After I got them by hand I used two hands and feel to get to the end of the bolts. Once at the end of the bolts I waited to feel the thread click on each and tested pulling to get them each out at the same time never pressing down.
-Clean around the yellow pieces extensively and get all the gunk in there GONE. Do this carefully and get it all, this took some time but I felt it to be worth while making sure the Permatex had a good clean surface to stick to.
-The Permatex is a mess but glob it on good, like really good! Once it’s on lay down the spacers. Keep in mind the spacers are now all the same size, I confirmed this is correct with Prinsu As everything I read said they are different sizes.
-I cut an old business card the size of the gutter gap and used to smooth out the Permatex and make sure it was even in all gaps down the gutter and between the spacers.
- I installed each rail individually one side at a time and started in the middle with one bolt then another working my way back then to the front. Keep these bolts semi lose as you’ll have to even out the rack (side to side) once you have center bars installed. Do this on both sides.
- This may go without saying but only install the center bars that don’t have mounting bolts under them first And also don't tighten them all the way.
- Once you have these center bars done stand in front of the truck and see if it is centered side to side. If not, you can adjust side to side as you didn’t tighten those roof bolts down yet. You’ll see if it looks off and keep in mind out front on the wind faring they’ll purtrude out slightly until the fairings in tightened down.
-tighten roof bolts
- Add center bars after that cover the roof bolts
-Snug everything up and add the fairing.
- Once done added more permatex on top where you see gaps.
Hope it helps some other like me.
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Just a heads up, I replaced my stock ones with black oxide alloy security screws fro m McMaster & they are already rusting 2 weeks later. So bummed.1
18-8 Stainless Steel Button Head Hex Drive Screws
Black-Oxide, 1/4"-20 Thread Size, 1/2" Long
97763A263
1
Pack of 50
$8.66
Pack
$8.66
2
18-8 Stainless Steel Button Head Hex Drive Screws
Black-Oxide, 1/4"-20 Thread Size, 1" Long
97763A267
2
Packs of 25
6.72
Pack
13.44
3
Black-Oxide 18-8 Stainless Steel Mil. Spec. Washer
Passivated, 1/4" Screw Size, MS/NASM-15795-809B
90618A129
1
Pack of 100
13.25
Pack
13.25
slowpok3
SILVER Star
i've got a few that are rusted as well. Perhaps McMaster prices are too good to be true...
The security screws seem like a good idea to me. No point locking stuff to the rack if a simple phillips or star bit can remove the bars in about a minute. I ordered some galvanized ones from them as well and will likely spray paint them. Also got the aluminum washers from Jegs.
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Anyone had problems with the permatex drying out? I've observed dry cracking and brittleness mostly around globs I placed on top of the bolts/washers - from direct UV exposure. I've had my rack installed since July and never had a problem with water ingress - until this week, 1 of the 8 mounting locations is leaking water inside.
Other than adding a new round of permatex everywhere, has anyone tried a secondary coverage method like flex seal tape or similar over the bolts?
Other than adding a new round of permatex everywhere, has anyone tried a secondary coverage method like flex seal tape or similar over the bolts?
The non-hardening form a gasket or RTV?
Non-hardening #2. UV rays are harsh.
The top layer of my final goop is cracking, but if I press it hard, it’s still malleable.
Red lines are where I put form-a-gasket. Each of the following locations are potential entry points:
Between roof and spacer
Between spacer and rack
Between rack and washer
Between washer and bolt head.
I tried to keep things nice and neat, but ultimately added it in all the places, then gooped up on top.
Red lines are where I put form-a-gasket. Each of the following locations are potential entry points:
Between roof and spacer
Between spacer and rack
Between rack and washer
Between washer and bolt head.
I tried to keep things nice and neat, but ultimately added it in all the places, then gooped up on top.
Love the whiteboard diagram, ha!
Application is consistent with what I did except for the full coverage dome on top of hex head and washer.
I'll do some permatex touch up this weekend, see how long it lasts.
I wish Prinsu would come up with a better solution. A simple rubber membrane and / or gasket would fix this.
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Yes. The Sherpa Equipment rack advertises such a mounting block. Doesn't seem to have the brand recognition as others. Curious if any mud guys are running one.
PSA - Most folks already do this and it’s been said a lot, but when installing this rack, use an anti-seize and a non-permanent thread locker. The hardware is not good at all.
A couple weeks ago I needed to move some crossbars around to mount some things to the rack. Trying to move around 3 crossbars I had 5 of the 12 bolt head shear off and had to use 1 on each side in some cases. These are bars I’ve moved and loosened many times.
The good news is after contacting Prinsu, waiting a week and starting to lose hope, they got back to me and sent me out 3 new crossbars with hardware, no questions asked. Wanted to share in case anyone else had this issue.
A couple weeks ago I needed to move some crossbars around to mount some things to the rack. Trying to move around 3 crossbars I had 5 of the 12 bolt head shear off and had to use 1 on each side in some cases. These are bars I’ve moved and loosened many times.
The good news is after contacting Prinsu, waiting a week and starting to lose hope, they got back to me and sent me out 3 new crossbars with hardware, no questions asked. Wanted to share in case anyone else had this issue.
I just finished removing the stock rack and installing the Prinsu on my 2020 HE (solo, without assistance). This thread and others on removing the factory rack were absolutely invaluable. Here are my additional observations:
- When removing the factory rack, a paint can lid pry tool is clutch. There is a Gamiviti YouTube video that shows exactly how to pry off the plastic bits.
- Given the sketchy exposure to the elements for the 16 anchor points on the roof, I used a ton of Permatex #2. It can make quite a mess, but it smells vaguely of whiskey, which is nice. A little rubbing alcohol will help with clean up.
- As others have noted, I would recommend mounting the side plates first, and then adding crossbars.
- Don’t forget to use a washer on every crossbar bolt. The threads in the crossbars are not very deep, and it is easy to snap off a bolt head if you forget a washer. (You can guess why I know that.)
- While getting things aligned and centered, I mounted the silver cross bar to the forward-most position. Once everything was locked down, I removed that bar to attach the fairing. It helps to loosely screw all of the cam nuts (or whatever they are called) to the fairing, and then slide on the silver crossbar while the fairing is lying face-down. On my truck, mounting the fairing crossbar to the lowest position (the lowest hole and the slot above it) puts the weatherstrip in contact with the roof of the truck.
- I did mount the back crossbar to the rear-most hole, but it would have cleared the shark fin even if I hadn’t.
Never had corrosion or fade on my Prinsu rack. Might be another story based on where you live. I have never stood on my roof rack, but can see it possibly showcasing some flex. Now that I’m getting another 200, I’m probably putting on another Prinsu but open to suggestions of something more durable that doesn’t weigh a ton. The only things that go on my roof rack are Sup boards, luggage, Christmas tree and the occasional Home Depot run for big items that won’t fit inside.
It's fine for that, but I had a considerable amount of flex on mine with Pelican 1650's loaded down. It's certainly one of the more aesthetically pleasing racks out there but their fit and finish leaves a lot to be desired IMHO.
