Anyone know of easy(ish) ways of preventing rust before the real snow hits. Someone suggested getting a gallon of wd40 and covering everything.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
Preventing rust
- Thread starter 4david
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Fluid Film...http://www.fluid-film.com/
Lots of information if you search!
WD40 is a bit thin and would wash off fast. Lots of products available designed specifically to protect vehicles from rust
Krown, Fluid Film, Rust check, Boeshield, Waxoyl, LPS 2 and probably tons of others...
I've tried most of them and have settled on Krown since it doesn't smell, penetrates well, and lasts OK.
Some last longer, but they are usually waxier and don't penetrate as well. I find the penetration to be important in an older truck that probably has rust starting in a number of places- the penetrating treatments just stop it completely until they dry up - and then you start again!
It's an ongoing battle.
I have my truck professionally sprayed once a year in the fall, and then use spray cans to add protection as needed throughout the year.
Most of these products will damage your door seals and rubber components - make them expand and soften, so protect them from excessive overspray.
Good luck!
WD40 is a bit thin and would wash off fast. Lots of products available designed specifically to protect vehicles from rust
Krown, Fluid Film, Rust check, Boeshield, Waxoyl, LPS 2 and probably tons of others...
I've tried most of them and have settled on Krown since it doesn't smell, penetrates well, and lasts OK.
Some last longer, but they are usually waxier and don't penetrate as well. I find the penetration to be important in an older truck that probably has rust starting in a number of places- the penetrating treatments just stop it completely until they dry up - and then you start again!
It's an ongoing battle.
I have my truck professionally sprayed once a year in the fall, and then use spray cans to add protection as needed throughout the year.
Most of these products will damage your door seals and rubber components - make them expand and soften, so protect them from excessive overspray.
Good luck!
I suggest not spraying the whole damn car with something that will stink forever. Yes, I'm talking to you Fluid Film.
If you want to permanently contaminate your truck, it's really easy. Just spray Fluid Film inside the doors and body panels. Maybe you'll develop an allergy from it too, making it 20x worse.
FluidFilm ruined my cruiser. I'll never be able to sleep inside it again. I can't drive it without airing it out with a big fan for 30 minutes beforehand. I can no longer drive it with the windows rolled up.
I sprayed FluidFilm inside the doors and a few body panels over 2 years ago. 2 years... and it still stinks like hell.
I've had other people sniff inside my car to get their opinion, and they say there is a slight machine shop smell but it doesn't bother them. And most people will say FluidFilm has a little smell but is ok. But if you're the type that can develop allergies, (like myself) Fluid Film is a disaster.
After 2 years, I can still slightly smell it, downwind from it, 15ft away. That's bad.
WD40 will eventually make steel rust faster.
If you want to permanently contaminate your truck, it's really easy. Just spray Fluid Film inside the doors and body panels. Maybe you'll develop an allergy from it too, making it 20x worse.
FluidFilm ruined my cruiser. I'll never be able to sleep inside it again. I can't drive it without airing it out with a big fan for 30 minutes beforehand. I can no longer drive it with the windows rolled up.
I sprayed FluidFilm inside the doors and a few body panels over 2 years ago. 2 years... and it still stinks like hell.
I've had other people sniff inside my car to get their opinion, and they say there is a slight machine shop smell but it doesn't bother them. And most people will say FluidFilm has a little smell but is ok. But if you're the type that can develop allergies, (like myself) Fluid Film is a disaster.
After 2 years, I can still slightly smell it, downwind from it, 15ft away. That's bad.
WD40 will eventually make steel rust faster.
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Better than fish oil! 
I used double boiled lin seed oil.
Yes ⇧
After the FluidFilm disaster, I used organic boiled linseed oil on and inside the frame. No problems. Much better.
If you use linseed oil, use the organic boiled type. The cheap stuff you find in your local hardware store will eventually grow mold in damper climates. I've experienced that too.
Vehicle Rust Proofing
After the FluidFilm disaster, I used organic boiled linseed oil on and inside the frame. No problems. Much better.
If you use linseed oil, use the organic boiled type. The cheap stuff you find in your local hardware store will eventually grow mold in damper climates. I've experienced that too.
Vehicle Rust Proofing
Interesting stuff, how do you apply it, spray or brush? Do you mix the paint with it and do you apply it to the body parts or just frame?
Move
Rust free climates exist.
Rust free climates exist.
That vehicle rustproofing version of organic boiled linseed oil they sell at that link above is mixed with bone black pigment to give it a brownish color. It goes on really thin. If you slap it on thick, it just drips off. It requires about 4-5 days between coats because it dries so slow and needs to be ventilated well. Not toxic fumes, but you can smell the linseed oil. I like the smell. It dissapates in a few weeks. Never bothered me like FF. But wear an organic vapor mask if your nose is in it under the car in an unventilated garage.
I brushed it on the outside of the frame & springs with a junk brush. Several coats.
Linseed oil can be applied over rusty metal that has been wire brushed clean of any big flakes. The oil penetrates the rust and seals it..suffocating out any oxygen. The rust stops growing.
On the last coat in some places. I mixed in a little black Rustoleum alkyd oil based paint to give it a darker color and less tacky feel.
For inside the frame I used the sprayer with a flexible wand I purchased at Kellsport Products (who sell it for that evil FluidFilm.
Here's a couple pictures of it applied to the frame:
I brushed it on the outside of the frame & springs with a junk brush. Several coats.
Linseed oil can be applied over rusty metal that has been wire brushed clean of any big flakes. The oil penetrates the rust and seals it..suffocating out any oxygen. The rust stops growing.
On the last coat in some places. I mixed in a little black Rustoleum alkyd oil based paint to give it a darker color and less tacky feel.
For inside the frame I used the sprayer with a flexible wand I purchased at Kellsport Products (who sell it for that evil FluidFilm.
Here's a couple pictures of it applied to the frame:
I've used Amsoil MPHD with great results underneath some of our vehicles. It goes on a bit waxy but dries quickly and leaves a very faint yellowish film. It stays on really well and protects a long time.
chelo
SILVER Star
I spray gibbs over the body. Absolutely no smell. For the undercarriage I use corrosion block. Has a slight smell but its gone within a day. I online order gibb's and get the corrion block from west marine. Although it looks like home depot is starting to carry it.
Call me crazy but I spray on cloth and wipe it on by hand.
Call me crazy but I spray on cloth and wipe it on by hand.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
I am under the idea that fluid film is derived from Lanolin sooo if your not into wool then you probably won't like fluid film. Correct me if I am wrong. I have a guy I am caring for at work and just tonight we were talking fluid film.. he has two old two door Broncos and a bunch of other "toys" and he loves the stuff.
I would just buy a disposable car or suv for the winter like a rav4 or something. 60s have terrible sheet metal that rusts easily. Drive one in the rust belt and all the fluid film will do is buy u a couple more years.
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Yes, Fluid film is lanolin based, so non toxic. But it definitely has a strong smell. I didn't think it was a bad smell until I had to smell it everyday in the truck. I now don't like it at all, kind of a weird sweetish smell.
The smell took about a year to fade- I did the inside of my door panels and now make sure that whatever I use in there has no smell at all. Earlier on I used a mix of chainsaw bar oil and gear oil... effective, but another smelly mistake.
The smell took about a year to fade- I did the inside of my door panels and now make sure that whatever I use in there has no smell at all. Earlier on I used a mix of chainsaw bar oil and gear oil... effective, but another smelly mistake.
- Thread starter
- #17
The linseed oil seems like a good product.
Is there anything I avoid besides the muffler.
It's too damn cold out there now. Wish I thought of this 2 months ago
Is there anything I avoid besides the muffler.
It's too damn cold out there now. Wish I thought of this 2 months ago
If it's too damn cold outside, linseed oil will take forever to set up. It will probably stay wet & oily for over a week. During that time, if you drive the truck, all kinds of crap will stick to it.
When I was painting linseed on the frame, the car was in a garage and the temp was about 68° all the time. I wasn't driving the car. I had to wait 4-5 days before it would set up enough to allow me to brush on another coat.
It's important before applying any coating to remove any existing salt or especially salt in rust before coating the metal. If there's salt under the coating, nothing can stop the rust from doing what it does best.
If I was in your situation, with currently freezing temps and had to drive the car, I would buy several cans of Amsoil MPHD as @SonnyAK mentioned. That stuff has gotten good reviews for rust prevention.
It comes in an aerosol can and is solvent based, so the solvent will evaporate quickly to allow the film to set up within a day or so. Leaves a waxy film behind.
Buy a can of it and try it out. Spray it outdoors with a good breeze. Wear an organic vapor half mask and eye protection and try your best to stay away from the solvent fumes. Toxic, but it evaporates quickly.
When I was painting linseed on the frame, the car was in a garage and the temp was about 68° all the time. I wasn't driving the car. I had to wait 4-5 days before it would set up enough to allow me to brush on another coat.
It's important before applying any coating to remove any existing salt or especially salt in rust before coating the metal. If there's salt under the coating, nothing can stop the rust from doing what it does best.
If I was in your situation, with currently freezing temps and had to drive the car, I would buy several cans of Amsoil MPHD as @SonnyAK mentioned. That stuff has gotten good reviews for rust prevention.
It comes in an aerosol can and is solvent based, so the solvent will evaporate quickly to allow the film to set up within a day or so. Leaves a waxy film behind.
Buy a can of it and try it out. Spray it outdoors with a good breeze. Wear an organic vapor half mask and eye protection and try your best to stay away from the solvent fumes. Toxic, but it evaporates quickly.
I like Fluid film. I was worried about the stink so I rolled my 60 on its side and let it sit for a few days. This allowed the gearbox to leak, filling the the cruiser with a tantalizing 90 weight aroma.
See, there's always a solution to every problem.
