Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (9 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Yes, I have bled the entire system a few times now. It’s a pretty good workout. This improved the pedal feel, but not the pulling.
 
You can buy straight brake lines with fittings attached in various lengths at Advance Auto, Napa, etc. and then form them as required. Just be sure they give you Jap metric fittings and not British. OBTW, the lines are inexpensive; buy an extra to practice on.
Tipco should be a good place too. They have saved us on several occasions with lines for all of our trucks.
 
You can also check out hydraulic hose supply stores. The one near me had a good supply of metric brake line fittings. I scarfed up a few for myself.
 
Being that it's drum brake, your pull is most likely a difference in adjustment between the two sides. Sounds like one is engaging faster than the other.
I agree. This is the funny part. I installed the right side cylinders on the left and the lefts on the right! So, adjustment is reverse of what it should be....meaning the adjuster tool moves toward the axle to tighten rather than away from the axle. I was so confused. The inverse of the reverse, upside down and backwards, was making my head spin!

Now, it appears that I also have air in the MC. So, I've got to figure out how to get that purged.
 
Not so fast. So, I was told that there are left and right (driver and drinker) cylinders and that they need to be installed as such. I didn't know this and just installed them with the adjuster on top at the front of the wheel and adjuster at the bottom at the back of the wheel. I was also told that the bleeder valve should be closest to the axle. However, my installation has the brake fittings closest to the axle. In my feeble mind, this orientation that I have now would make the brake adjustments backwards as stated above. However, it turns out that the adjustments are as they should be (using the adjuster tool, moving the tool away from the axle) to adjust the pads out. I'm so confused.

This is why the thing stopped pulling, because I had adjusted the shoes so far in that only the rear brakes were working. I'm going to go drink a beer and ponder my existence. I'll get them re-re-re-adjusted and report back later.
 
Bench bleeding on vehicle: Take or make two short lines, with a fitting at one end, each line long enough to attach to the front and rear outputs on the MC and bend them up and over into their respective reservoirs. Detach the lines going to the front and rear systems, attach the two short lines and pump the brakes to cycle the fluid, keeping an eye on air bubbles. Also watch for leaks and reservoir levels. Do this until you see no more air in fluid. Should be a video on process.
 
That worked like a charm. Thank you! Brakes are done! I even got to re-purpose one of the scrap tubes from my tube-bending carnage pile (that's why there is a fitting on both ends). Here is a picture of the setup with the first short line attached and bent into the reservoir.

IMG_1955.jpg
 
Trying and failing to get my rear brakes rebuilt after a lost caliper pin resulted in the RR dragging and getting too hot. Thought I would do both at the same time.

Figured out they are 79-85 el dorado calipers with parking brake… noticed today the supposedly correct rebuild kits from summit sold as 79-85 have the wrong piston seal and boot size (have 2” pistons). Of course no parts stores within 30 miles have the right boots.
Now to the pads… all of these are the same fitment….

All this is really to say that I get why shops don't like to mess with modified relics like this. Would be a lot of wasted time.

Still working on this; have now gone through a half dozen boot and seal kits and 5 Napa trips with no luck.

Finally thought to check the bleeder threads; they are M10x1.5. I do not think these are what I thought they were (eldorado 79-85) ... definitely GM D154 type calipers but metric "small bore."

They are a ~53.8MM//2.1" bore, and exact match for This Napa Seville Caliper assy, however napa carries no similar year boot/seal kits for seville that fit.

The D154 distinction at least explains the brake pads; they must have the lug to prevent the piston from rotating and allowing the e brake to slip.

Hope this helps someone as this rear disc conversion type at least appears to be common. Have done a few brake rebuilds, but always started with known OEM stuff and never had to play clue. I'm sort of tied to it, as the PO got rid of the OEM park brake drum, probably when the H55 conversion was done.
 
Wired up a blue sea to clean up the connections on the battery, and wiring to charge up a 2nd battery. Broverlanding ready!

PXL_20230226_210643348.MP.jpg


PXL_20230226_210648279.MP.jpg


PXL_20230226_210651845.MP.jpg


PXL_20230226_220317841.MP.jpg
 
Wired up a blue sea to clean up the connections on the battery, and wiring to charge up a 2nd battery. Broverlanding ready!







View attachment 3259143
Carefull using the handle on the box with the battery in it. Mine snapped off as I picked it up and it fell and destroyed the top. I pieced it back together but now use the bottom box side handles.
 
Carefull using the handle on the box with the battery in it. Mine snapped off as I picked it up and it fell and destroyed the top. I pieced it back together but now use the bottom box side handles.
Good to know! I saw the note card or whatever that came with it saying don't lift by that handle but was going to ignore it.
 
Good to know! I saw the note card or whatever that came with it saying don't lift by that handle but was going to ignore it.
Who reads instructions. I know I didn't lol
 
Still working on this; have now gone through a half dozen boot and seal kits and 5 Napa trips with no luck.

Finally thought to check the bleeder threads; they are M10x1.5. I do not think these are what I thought they were (eldorado 79-85) ... definitely GM D154 type calipers but metric "small bore."

They are a ~53.8MM//2.1" bore, and exact match for This Napa Seville Caliper assy, however napa carries no similar year boot/seal kits for seville that fit.

The D154 distinction at least explains the brake pads; they must have the lug to prevent the piston from rotating and allowing the e brake to slip.

Hope this helps someone as this rear disc conversion type at least appears to be common. Have done a few brake rebuilds, but always started with known OEM stuff and never had to play clue. I'm sort of tied to it, as the PO got rid of the OEM park brake drum, probably when the H55 conversion was done.
Correct. The GM bleeder thread isn’t as fine as Toyota, and is harder to keep air out while bleeding. That is why I bought speed bleeders for my RDB install and used them. Much easier to bleed now.
 
Had a running light out. Went to change the bulb and remembered I had a set of LED taillights that will fit but you have to rewire the pigtails to the plugs.one side has no plug and is straight-wired to the harness.

I was lazy and just changed the bulb.

BAFFB70F-CD85-4E15-A90F-56257432A066.jpeg


4B90B02A-2C99-4F03-B517-B8C594748A07.jpeg
 
Had a running light out. Went to change the bulb and remembered I had a set of LED taillights that will fit but you have to rewire the pigtails to the plugs.one side has no plug and is straight-wired to the harness.

I was lazy and just changed the bulb.

View attachment 3262318

View attachment 3262319
I will buy your old lights when you swap them out.
 
I will buy your old lights when you swap them out.
I have another set somewhere. When we moved they got “packed somewhere”. If I find them I will drop them off and we can work out something
 
Got some fencing done around the garden. We doubled it in size this year and I still have to plow the new part. Once that's done I can finish the fence. Total will be 60x24. Wife got some veggies planted today as well.

20230305_155932.jpg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom