Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (9 Viewers)

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I sold my '03 Audi RS6 V8 twin turbo with a 6 speed conversion (that I installed) for my cruiser...it was a blast to drive, 600 hp scary fast, and I miss it. That said, I think my 80 has a forever home in my single bay garage!





But back to cruiser content....I installed my HuricanFab tailgate storage door...I love it!





I know that it's best to keep things like recover gear at arm's length when on the trial, but nice to be able to keep it stowed on board at all times just in case!

I would've put the 80 outside and kept that rs6 in the garage!
 
I sold my '03 Audi RS6 V8 twin turbo with a 6 speed conversion (that I installed) for my cruiser...it was a blast to drive, 600 hp scary fast, and I miss it. That said, I think my 80 has a forever home in my single bay garage!





But back to cruiser content....I installed my HuricanFab tailgate storage door...I love it!





I know that it's best to keep things like recover gear at arm's length when on the trial, but nice to be able to keep it stowed on board at all times just in case!

Those cars are magic when they work. Haha
 
Perhaps of interest to 1st Gen Taco owners with tired front seat belts.

Replacements still available from Mr T. ~$150.
One and a half banana job. 45 minutes. 14mm socket, philips driver and a trim popper tool.

My left shoulder is grateful.

This is blue/gray interior.
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Taut and eager to retract. A nice change from having to shuffle the old one back every time.

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The driver's belt on the 100 is nearly as bad. But I'm not liking the price... ~$250.
 
Those cars are magic when they work. Haha
Now you've got it! If you thought 80's and 90's vintage cruiser stuff is hard to find, they only brought 900 or so of these cars to the US for one model year only. There are more in Europe, but stupid expensive for used parts that are NLA...fun stuff like a one of a kind radiator that goes...edit...last one known NOS went 3 years ago for $2k. That said, it was definitely built for the autobahn....could cruise at 160 easily...never topped out at the suspected 190's. Honestly, I'm much happier now going 0-60 in 3.8 minutes instead of 3.8 seconds. :steer:
 
Can you take the manifold to a machine shop and have then deck it? Also high temp rtv can fill in some holes along with a gasket.
 
Can you take the manifold to a machine shop and have then deck it? Also high temp rtv can fill in some holes along with a gasket.
Maybe. There is one chunk missing that’s worrisome. I guess I could try. The nuts were WAY loose when I took it off. So that moist air has just been hitting the manifold. Surprisingly, the studs seemed fine. I needed freeAll and pliers the work them back and forth and get them out. I think the threads are actually ok. I got all new hardware so hopefully no helicoils required. I have some high temperature RTV so I guess I could try that. Autozone has the dorman knockoff for 100 bucks. I might try filling the rough areas and seeing what happens.
 
Maybe. There is one chunk missing that’s worrisome. I guess I could try. The nuts were WAY loose when I took it off. So that moist air has just been hitting the manifold. Surprisingly, the studs seemed fine. I needed freeAll and pliers the work them back and forth and get them out. I think the threads are actually ok. I got all new hardware so hopefully no helicoils required. I have some high temperature RTV so I guess I could try that. Autozone has the dorman knockoff for 100 bucks. I might try filling the rough areas and seeing what happens.
Buy the Dorman and be done,
 
Whoever was the last guy that RTVd this oil pan on……. a******.

I’ve been on my back scraping this mess all morning. Good news is timing cover, oil pump, water pump going on after lunch. I probably won’t get the pan on today because I want the surface perfect. I work tomorrow, but maybe Saturday I can get the head on.
 
Tearing (literally) into my front drums/wheel cylinders and I broke both of these brake tubes that go from the juncture to the wheel cylinders. They are discontinued from Toyota, and I don't know how to make brake line. I also checked online, and it appears that none of the go-to vendors carry this specific part either. Do you guys have a source for stuff like this? Jan 1975 FJ40.

Screenshot 2023-02-09 213509.png
 
Rainman has retired from building brake line kits, unfortunately.

At this point your best best is to get a roll of NiCopp and the club flare kit and make your own. If you get a 25ft roll of NioCopp you'll have plenty of spare to practice. Plan to reuse the flare nuts if they're in decent shape. It's really not terrible to make the brake lines.
 
Tearing (literally) into my front drums/wheel cylinders and I broke both of these brake tubes that go from the juncture to the wheel cylinders. They are discontinued from Toyota, and I don't know how to make brake line. I also checked online, and it appears that none of the go-to vendors carry this specific part either. Do you guys have a source for stuff like this? Jan 1975 FJ40.

View attachment 3244496

I had never made a brake line until I replaced the blown master on my early 40. It's still a single circuit, so the run from master to LF corner was all I had to do. But lots of bends.

It wasn't that hard. At all.
At least not the forming part. Finding the correct fittings was a challenge.
This is what I needed:

I probably have a few extras.

This tool for the bends:
Amazon product ASIN B0859Q3VWK
Flaring kit:
Amazon product ASIN B082P2483D
NiCop tubing is available at any parts store. I used straight lengths, because I didn't trust myself to unroll the bulk stuff.

You will make mistakes. It's all about planning the layout and sequence of events. Practice the flaring on scrap. It has to be perfect.
 
Thanks again for the links. I have ordered everything up and will make a go of it. Cheers!
 
You can buy straight brake lines with fittings attached in various lengths at Advance Auto, Napa, etc. and then form them as required. Just be sure they give you Jap metric fittings and not British. OBTW, the lines are inexpensive; buy an extra to practice on.
 
You can buy straight brake lines with fittings attached in various lengths at Advance Auto, Napa, etc. and then form them as required. Just be sure they give you Jap metric fittings and not British. OBTW, the lines are inexpensive; buy an extra to practice on.

I couldn't find any local source for M9x1 for 3/16 line on my '67, only stuff in-stock was M10. Not even AMZN. Had to order a handful of loose fittings from a specialty shop.
 
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I couldn't find any local source for M9x1 for 3/16 line on my '67, only stuff in-stock was M10. Not even AMZN. Had to order a handful of loose fittings from a specialty shop.

Yeah I actually convinced Rainman to sell me 10 of his flare nuts before he retired. They're a perfect copy of the OEM.
 

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