Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (7 Viewers)

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OBTW, Rainey (Rainman) was the one who designed the classic early GSMTR shirts.
 
What about the mastercool hydraulic flare kit? Isn’t that a club tool? Also Eastwood Brake Line Tubing Forming Tool Pliers work well for me.
 
Yep, my '75 is 10mm. Thanks all. I got everything cleaned up, new wheel cylinders in place. Now just waiting on the flare nuts and tool. I took the old, leaky cylinder apart and it was pretty rusty inside. Both boots had holes in them, likely from me trying to adjust the wrong end of the cylinder with an old, sharp screwdriver. Doh!
 
I'm still practicing on the brake line. Good thing I bought a LOT because it sure isn't easy. One question I have is about fittings, which fitting goes to the top of the axle and which goes into the brake cylinder. Each fitting has a different end (see pic of my old fittings).
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Getting all the FIPG off the oil pan is really a pain. The pan has those grooves in the middle. The block surface is pretty clean, but this pan is sitting in the corner of the garage mocking me. I’ve almost got it I think though. Hopefully I’ll be all done with this soon.
 
Let’s all take a minute…. Bow are heads, and pray this oil pan seals properly. I’m 85-15 it holds.

A lift or just pulling the motor is the way to do this. Extra couple hours to pull it but sooooo much more access. I just don’t have a hoist and stand. Soon to be remedied.
 
I'm still practicing on the brake line. Good thing I bought a LOT because it sure isn't easy. One question I have is about fittings, which fitting goes to the top of the axle and which goes into the brake cylinder. Each fitting has a different end (see pic of my old fittings).View attachment 3249197
I thought Toyota only used the stepped flare nuts like the right.
 
I thought Toyota only used the stepped flare nuts like the right.
Aaaaah, good. Then, I must have mixed things up on the garage floor. I will use the stepped fittings. Thank you!
 
Trying and failing to get my rear brakes rebuilt after a lost caliper pin resulted in the RR dragging and getting too hot. Thought I would do both at the same time.

Figured out they are 79-85 el dorado calipers with parking brake… noticed today the supposedly correct rebuild kits from summit sold as 79-85 have the wrong piston seal and boot size (have 2” pistons). Of course no parts stores within 30 miles have the right boots.
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Now to the pads… all of these are the same fitment….

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All this is really to say that I get why shops don't like to mess with modified relics like this. Would be a lot of wasted time.
 
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She's a beaut!
 
I’ll drive it for a week or so to make sure everything stays good then probably list it somewhere. Definitely satisfying to spend all that time and energy replacing all the gaskets and hoses at the same time as the timing chain and have it run really good.
 
I got the brake lines bent up, installed, and brakes bled. No leaks! Thank you for the parts suggestions and advice to get plenty of extra brake line for practicing. I only did the one side that was leaking...and now it pulls slightly to the serviced side when braking. Since the other, untouched side is not leaking, I'm guessing it is a case of new parts vs worn parts. Is this something normal that will possibly work itself out, or should I just do the other side and be done with it?
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I got the brake lines bent up, installed, and brakes bled. No leaks! Thank you for the parts suggestions and advice to get plenty of extra brake line for practicing. I only did the one side that was leaking...and now it pulls slightly to the serviced side when braking. Since the other, untouched side is not leaking, I'm guessing it is a case of new parts vs worn parts. Is this something normal that will possibly work itself out, or should I just do the other side and be done with it? View attachment 3254370
I would say, do the other side and maybe change out the rubber lines while you're at it just to be on the safe side.
 
Did you bleed all the lines?
 

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