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Tipco should be a good place too. They have saved us on several occasions with lines for all of our trucks.You can buy straight brake lines with fittings attached in various lengths at Advance Auto, Napa, etc. and then form them as required. Just be sure they give you Jap metric fittings and not British. OBTW, the lines are inexpensive; buy an extra to practice on.
I agree. This is the funny part. I installed the right side cylinders on the left and the lefts on the right! So, adjustment is reverse of what it should be....meaning the adjuster tool moves toward the axle to tighten rather than away from the axle. I was so confused. The inverse of the reverse, upside down and backwards, was making my head spin!Being that it's drum brake, your pull is most likely a difference in adjustment between the two sides. Sounds like one is engaging faster than the other.
Trying and failing to get my rear brakes rebuilt after a lost caliper pin resulted in the RR dragging and getting too hot. Thought I would do both at the same time.
Figured out they are 79-85 el dorado calipers with parking brake… noticed today the supposedly correct rebuild kits from summit sold as 79-85 have the wrong piston seal and boot size (have 2” pistons). Of course no parts stores within 30 miles have the right boots.
Now to the pads… all of these are the same fitment….
All this is really to say that I get why shops don't like to mess with modified relics like this. Would be a lot of wasted time.
Carefull using the handle on the box with the battery in it. Mine snapped off as I picked it up and it fell and destroyed the top. I pieced it back together but now use the bottom box side handles.Wired up a blue sea to clean up the connections on the battery, and wiring to charge up a 2nd battery. Broverlanding ready!
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Good to know! I saw the note card or whatever that came with it saying don't lift by that handle but was going to ignore it.Carefull using the handle on the box with the battery in it. Mine snapped off as I picked it up and it fell and destroyed the top. I pieced it back together but now use the bottom box side handles.
Who reads instructions. I know I didn't lolGood to know! I saw the note card or whatever that came with it saying don't lift by that handle but was going to ignore it.
Correct. The GM bleeder thread isn’t as fine as Toyota, and is harder to keep air out while bleeding. That is why I bought speed bleeders for my RDB install and used them. Much easier to bleed now.Still working on this; have now gone through a half dozen boot and seal kits and 5 Napa trips with no luck.
Finally thought to check the bleeder threads; they are M10x1.5. I do not think these are what I thought they were (eldorado 79-85) ... definitely GM D154 type calipers but metric "small bore."
They are a ~53.8MM//2.1" bore, and exact match for This Napa Seville Caliper assy, however napa carries no similar year boot/seal kits for seville that fit.
The D154 distinction at least explains the brake pads; they must have the lug to prevent the piston from rotating and allowing the e brake to slip.
Hope this helps someone as this rear disc conversion type at least appears to be common. Have done a few brake rebuilds, but always started with known OEM stuff and never had to play clue. I'm sort of tied to it, as the PO got rid of the OEM park brake drum, probably when the H55 conversion was done.
I will buy your old lights when you swap them out.Had a running light out. Went to change the bulb and remembered I had a set of LED taillights that will fit but you have to rewire the pigtails to the plugs.one side has no plug and is straight-wired to the harness.
I was lazy and just changed the bulb.
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I have another set somewhere. When we moved they got “packed somewhere”. If I find them I will drop them off and we can work out somethingI will buy your old lights when you swap them out.