1MOA
SILVER Star
I would have little to no problem saying no on that.
Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on?
- Thread starter Stumpalama
- Start date
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it’s great to have friends and neighbors that let you use their tools. Put the housing in a lath so dual seals will fit.
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They have a very clean, low mileage, 1994 80 series with twin lockers for sale: 1994 Toyota Land Cruiser | New Old Cars - https://newoldcars.com/1994-toyota-land-cruiser/
They have a very clean, low mileage, 1994 80 series with twin lockers for sale: 1994 Toyota Land Cruiser | New Old Cars - https://newoldcars.com/1994-toyota-land-cruiser/
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iptman
SILVER Star
Dude....like I need another time wasting site to scan on the regular!
Nothing to see here... nothing at all!
I used drop brackets from IPOR. I can say they bolt right up and included hardware. I did have to work all the bolts loose with the torch. Had one front bump stop bolt break but a quick fix with a drill and tap.
I used a "used" "j" spring kit with "l" shocks. 850j's up front and swapped in some 860's in the rear for a more level stance. I need to get some weight on the front end. Right now the engine is in the back of the truck!
Pulled the engine and trans/transfer today and got them both on engine stands.
The stand holding the engine is a Sunex that rotates with a hand crank on a gear box so it’ll be easy to access all parts of the motor.
Standby for assessment of ghetto hack jobs that are going to be repaired.
The stand holding the engine is a Sunex that rotates with a hand crank on a gear box so it’ll be easy to access all parts of the motor.
Standby for assessment of ghetto hack jobs that are going to be repaired.
Does the Sunex have a lock on it to hold the engine at the angle you wat it, and have you tried to flip it yet? I am not sure the stand is wide enough to carry the weight but it seems like a good set up.
EDIT: I just found it at Northern. Is this the 1000 lb version? It answered my question of staying put. Thanks
Yup, 1000lb rotating version from Northern. I rotated it and it’s secure. I bought a cheapie 1000lb engine stand last night from HF for $62 to hold the trans/transfer. Seems fine but def not as sturdy as the Sunex.
OK, after pulling the motor, initial assessment of the hack jobs lurking under the hood of my 40 include:
- busted tooth on the flywheel
- broken bell housing that was welded back together and is missing a bolt on the motor mount
- bent and modified power steering pump bracket
- intake/exhaust manifold held together with incorrect hardware store bolts
- throttle linkage plate made out of welded washers
Awesome. Good thing I bought an entire spare 2F engine/trans off Craigslist last year for $600. I should be able to piece together one good drive train.
Funny thing is, everything worked fine before I pulled the motor.
- busted tooth on the flywheel
- broken bell housing that was welded back together and is missing a bolt on the motor mount
- bent and modified power steering pump bracket
- intake/exhaust manifold held together with incorrect hardware store bolts
- throttle linkage plate made out of welded washers
Awesome. Good thing I bought an entire spare 2F engine/trans off Craigslist last year for $600. I should be able to piece together one good drive train.
Funny thing is, everything worked fine before I pulled the motor.
You've opened the belly of the beast. Pay heed.
First time I've ever seen air rail fittings welded shut!!!!! Were/are you running a cable for carb linkage?
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Thats what happens when you take a cruiser to a shop that doesn't understand cruisers. Most mechanic shops do not realize that you can still buy parts for a 40 from the dealer or a cruiser specialty parts place. They call up napa and when it doesn't show up on the computer they go into to hack/ make it work mode. At least they used metric bolts.
Nope, the stock carb linkage still works.
Pretty sure the air rail fittings are brazed shut but we’ll find out when I attempt to install the Mark C allen head threaded plugs.
Two words.....South America
lol enough said.
I'm going to be removing the intake/exhaust manifold from the motor tonight. I have the engine out of the truck and on an engine stand. Do you guys have any recommendations for removing the manifold without cracking it? My reading tells me it's easy to crack these things.
My plan is to loosen each bolt 1/8 turn at a time. Does it matter if I go inside to out? or outside to inside? Doesn't matter?
I'll attempt to remove the remains of my exhaust pipe first which I cut off down near the bellhousing which might prove interesting. I can rotate the motor upside down on the engine stand which should make it easier.
My plan is to loosen each bolt 1/8 turn at a time. Does it matter if I go inside to out? or outside to inside? Doesn't matter?
I'll attempt to remove the remains of my exhaust pipe first which I cut off down near the bellhousing which might prove interesting. I can rotate the motor upside down on the engine stand which should make it easier.
Well, that was easy. Had no problems removing my old exhaust pipe and the intake/exhaust manifold. Stripped the motor down to the bare block just to get a good look at everything.
Looks like I mighta had an exhaust leak between two ports based on the white residue that can be seen in the pic. Otherwise everything looks good and came apart easy.
I’m going to take it into a machine shop just for a general check up and to see if they can remove my old welded/brazed air injectors.
Looks like I mighta had an exhaust leak between two ports based on the white residue that can be seen in the pic. Otherwise everything looks good and came apart easy.
I’m going to take it into a machine shop just for a general check up and to see if they can remove my old welded/brazed air injectors.
