Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (15 Viewers)

[CrabCake]

after you're done building that 4x4 labs bumper if you wanted to help adjust mine that'd be awesome the accessory mounting tabs on mine are in the wrong spot and hit the bumper when I open the swing outs.

@chudly no problem to do that anytime...let me get my welder supplies organized and do a little practice and we can get you fixed up! I have some plate and coupons to play with in various thicknesses, so should be easy to dial in. Maybe sometime during or after Thanksgiving weekend...

 

[mgrs]

Planned for this weekend if I don't end up having to work:

-Rebuild/restore/new foam front heater box assembly
-install new box, ducts, blower assembly and pull switches
-Relocate saginaw power steering pump from top of block to (empty) smog pump location

....starting pulling together the parts to put a factory air cleaner assembly back in and realized I don't have the metal/rubber washer pieces used to isolate the housing from the motor. Seen here in a vendor photo- anyone know what they are called or what part #?

 

[Von Hayek]

Planned for this weekend if I don't end up having to work:

-Rebuild/restore/new foam front heater box assembly
-install new box, ducts, blower assembly and pull switches
-Relocate saginaw power steering pump from top of block to (empty) smog pump location

....starting pulling together the parts to put a factory air cleaner assembly back in and realized I don't have the metal/rubber washer pieces used to isolate the housing from the motor. Seen here in a vendor photo- anyone know what they are called or what part #?View attachment 3477287

Check with @ToyotaMatt, he should be able to help you with those.

 

[DirtNap]

On that note, I bought a press brake that goes in my 20 ton press, can handle 3/16" plate up to 12" wide and make a 90% angle (5/16" to 6" wide, and 3/8" to 3" wide). Also picked up a plasma cutter for up to 3/8" plate....should be great for lots of projects! If anyone has some custom brackets, etc. to make, let me know if I can help.

Eastwood Press Brake Attachment

Turn your Shop Press into a Metal Brake

www.eastwood.com

Eastwood Versa Cut 40 Amp Plasma Cutter

Easily slice through metal up to 3/8

www.eastwood.com

Looks like Christmas came early at the Crab Cake household! Sounds like you are getting quite a good setup!!

 

[Svensk120]

Looks like Christmas came early at the Crab Cake household! Sounds like you are getting quite a good setup!!

And one of his sons is a welder so he will get good training on the new toys too!!

 

[Svensk120]

Well it was a bit chilly in the low 40s here in Catonsville MD so decided to have an early morning burn....
Boy you can really tell the difference between the well used Ranger and the brand new deflector

It really does make a difference in kicking the heat out the side to make it even nicer to sit around.
@prharper @davidp14 thanks for convincing me to join the Solo Stove cult I am loving it!

Come-on @Jakes40 you know you want to join the cool kids with fire pits!
If you want one for the house to sit on the deck with get the bonfire and if you want one that is easy to take camping the the Ranger like ours is the best size... But we have to pack them in the trucks you do have the pickup and trailer so you can bring the bigger one easier then we can.

Just used a small bit of fuel for a short burn. So I got an hour out of about 9 pieces of 2x3 raw pine scrape blocks.... Yes it was sooty and made smoke but it was not tons and it was an enjoyable little fire

 

[CrabCake]

Yup, love a good fire pit! I've had the Yukon for several years now and added the diffuser last spring when it first came out...game changer to be able to keep a lower flame and still get good heat out of it. Sometimes I do like to let it roll!

 

[jht3]

i haven't popped for the deflector. didn't exist when i got my bonfire. what do you guys do for storage? i have the shelter cover but clearly it won't slip over the deflector.

i've heard of people using fuel OTHER than split logs 12-16" long. i have plenty of logs, kindling, etc from downed branches, but curious if i'm missing anything cool.

 

[Svensk120]

There is a storage bag they sell for the deflector so you can take it apart and it packs down flat

Right now there is a sale on accessories by two get 25% off which is the reason I actually purchased the deflector because I got that the storage bag free shipping because it was over $100 and it was still cheaper than the deflector was with the normal discount

 

[Pulgasari]

Hopefully going to get some WKOR sliders on Black Friday, so I'm thinking about what to do to best protect them from rust. They don't need to look perfect, and I won't be using them as steps. Seems like I have a few options:

1. Buy them powdercoated and do nothing else
2. Buy them bare and cover with primer/rattlecan
3. Buy them powdercoated and cover with primer/rattlecan

I'm leaning towards #3, since I did some cursory searches and it seems like the DIY coating will stick better to a powdercoated surface, but I'm not sure if there are some worthwhile local options I'm unaware of (galvanizing, raptor coating, etc) that will make the sliders more durable long-term.

 

[Svensk120]

Hopefully going to get some WKOR sliders on Black Friday, so I'm thinking about what to do to best protect them from rust. They don't need to look perfect, and I won't be using them as steps. Seems like I have a few options:

1. Buy them powdercoated and do nothing else
2. Buy them bare and cover with primer/rattlecan
3. Buy them powdercoated and cover with primer/rattlecan

I'm leaning towards #3, since I did some cursory searches and it seems like the DIY coating will stick better to a powdercoated surface, but I'm not sure if there are some worthwhile local options I'm unaware of (galvanizing, raptor coating, etc) that will make the sliders more durable long-term.

I would say option 3 as that is what I have done.

Edit I just figured out you were referring to white knuckle

White Knuckle is almost like a club sponsor so many of us have them!

 

[mgrs]

Finally got to the truck after the other to-do list stuff this week, but started way too late and still have some fitment issues to work out.

My thought was that, since the truck is desmogged, I might move the saginaw power steering pump down to where the smog pump would have been. This would do two things- clean things up, and more importantly move the pump and hoses down and away from the headers. The return line is cracking where it gets cooked, and the fluid boils over when the system is used heavily.

I got one of Mark's brackets, which replicates the smog pump mount, and uses a similar pivot adjustment bracket that attaches to one of the water pump bolts. I liked the idea as it would be like a better version of the TPI system that repurposes the smog pump mount pictured here:

It is a nice solution, but it looks like I will have to grind it to fit a standard saginaw pump. It is about 5mm short of the clearance required for the 'flange" on the tank. It's also going to be danger close to clearing the steering shaft and radiator support but figure that will work out. The steering shaft hits the rad support occasionally anyway.

What I've currently got- not only places the hoses about 1" from the top of the headers, but also attaches to the block head bolts, intake manifold, and smog pump location all at once. Lot going on:

 

[CrabCake]

i haven't popped for the deflector. didn't exist when i got my bonfire. what do you guys do for storage? i have the shelter cover but clearly it won't slip over the deflector.

i've heard of people using fuel OTHER than split logs 12-16" long. i have plenty of logs, kindling, etc from downed branches, but curious if i'm missing anything cool.

I was a little skeptical to shell out for it when it came out, but it really does double (or more) the feel of the warmth when it's chilly out. Usually you need a pretty good flame rolling to really feel the heat, but with the deflector, it works like the radiant mushroom heaters do and makes it very comfortable to sit around the pit and feel the warmth without needing to burn your biscuits by being too close. Also, once you get a nice hot ember, you don't need as much wood to keep the fire rolling out of the top to feel it, saving on lumber for sure.

I have a space on my porch that I tuck it away for summer, sits on top of my house AC unit for winter so I can grab it easily after the blaze gets going in the pit. No matter what you do, it'll have some soot on it, so grab with gloves or a rag when moving so you don't get it all over your fingers (and clothes when you didn't realize that your fingers were dirty!). In my opinion, unless you are traveling with it, I'd find it a nuisance to pull the legs off each time for storage. I do keep the ember screen on mine and the cover on it when not in use to keep it dry inside, but I'm far enough away from the house to worry about the screen while I'm using it, so I just set that aside too with the cover when burning so it's easier to drop new logs in. Unless you have crappy wood that pops and has flying embers, the screen isn't needed (although I used religiously for the first year to make sure it was safe).

Fuel wise, I just use the starter sticks and decent wood. I have a new 1/2 cord coming in a couple of days that is supposed to be seasoned, so hoping that it'll burn well. I know the wood guy and his family, so I trust his product, but first time using him. I also have some long limbs that were pruned from my crepe myrtles last spring that are nice and dry now, cut these into 18" sticks when they were green and stacked for seasoning... they burn with a fury!

Next up in the collection is going to be the Pi pizza oven as a Christmas gift for my wife...she loves good pizza and is our Executive Chef for our catering business, so she'd really enjoy having one (and me too!). Honestly, the tasty pie at Fall Crawl thanks to the Richmond Crew put the final nail in the coffin for me to spring for one. I know that they weren't using the Pi, but something similar in another brand with gas heat and a stone that worked great.

 

[CrabCake]

Hopefully going to get some WKOR sliders on Black Friday, so I'm thinking about what to do to best protect them from rust. They don't need to look perfect, and I won't be using them as steps. Seems like I have a few options:

1. Buy them powdercoated and do nothing else
2. Buy them bare and cover with primer/rattlecan
3. Buy them powdercoated and cover with primer/rattlecan

I'm leaning towards #3, since I did some cursory searches and it seems like the DIY coating will stick better to a powdercoated surface, but I'm not sure if there are some worthwhile local options I'm unaware of (galvanizing, raptor coating, etc) that will make the sliders more durable long-term.

Don't fret over rust on these...the powder coat that WKOR does looks best and has held up great on mine. That said, Coal Miner especially put a beating on them, but some Eastwood Chassis Black on a little brush seals the scrapes right back up (which are usually on the bottom unseen anyway). Looking at the site now, it seems that they are only using the DOM tubing (I had an option when I got mine last year)...mine took some hard hits and didn't even take a ding, much less a bend, just scrapes from dragging across the boulders! Point being (although I think you are already sold on WKOR), they will be stronger than other brands that don't use the DOM.

Since you don't plan on using as a step, stay with the default 15 degree angle for more clearance and you also won't need the top plates. I appreciated when I ordered mine, I spec'd the 15 degree with a rear top plate, but they reached out and said it wouldn't really be useful, so with my approval, they adjusted my order and took off the charge for the top plates (thank you for the great the customer service!).

Shipping wise, they are heavy! Mine came both in one package...my poor UPS driver that day was a woman, she was strong and gave it a good try, but I was home and helped her get them out of the truck...and she helped me carry them all the way up to my garage. It was holiday season and probably 7:30 at night, so a long day for the driver...I gave her a $50 tip that really made her day!

 

[jht3]

Hopefully going to get some WKOR sliders on Black Friday, so I'm thinking about what to do to best protect them from rust. They don't need to look perfect, and I won't be using them as steps. Seems like I have a few options:

1. Buy them powdercoated and do nothing else
2. Buy them bare and cover with primer/rattlecan
3. Buy them powdercoated and cover with primer/rattlecan

I'm leaning towards #3, since I did some cursory searches and it seems like the DIY coating will stick better to a powdercoated surface, but I'm not sure if there are some worthwhile local options I'm unaware of (galvanizing, raptor coating, etc) that will make the sliders more durable long-term.

#3

i went with #1 on a different truck and it sucked primering and painting tube with rattlecans. all the curves and weld crevices was a PITA. that was after wiping everything down with prepsall to clean the bare metal.

haven't had to touch mine up yet but have a can of Rustoleum satin black i think should match.

 

[MyLandy]

Right after every scrape I touch up my WKOR/Slee with this:
Rust-oleum Painters Touch 2x Ultracover Paint+Primer Canyon Black Satin

I get it at Home Depot, it's worked well for me, the scrapes are just underneath so I don't care that they still show through.

 

[CrabCake]

Right after every scrape I touch up my WKOR/Slee with this:
Rust-oleum Painters Touch 2x Ultracover Paint+Primer Canyon Black Satin

I get it at Home Depot, it's worked well for me, the scrapes are just underneath so I don't care that they still show through.

I’d rather have the battle scars on something bolt on rather than a body panel any day and really don’t mind a few scrapes here and there on them. The WKOR’s are tough and shows that I enjoy the cruiser for what it’s made for…

 

[mgrs]

Got some spare minutes tonight and fitted the 65swb45 power steering pump bracket.

It is a bracket that is designed to bolt directly into the factory smog pump location (driver side block under the motor mount and accomodate a GM P Series type "canned ham" PS pump. The belt adjustment is done just like the smog pump- via a pivot arm bracket attached to the lower driver's side water pump housing.

The bracket as shipped was nowhere near fitting a P series pump, and the MFG confirmed that it is a direct bolt-up to the pump. I considered using a SBC type bracket that adds a long pivot fulcrum bolt to the pump, but it would have moved the pump far enough to the driver's side to hit the radiator support.

65swb45 bracket took some modification to fit a P type pump as intended- 14mm off the "flange" area and 6mm off the rest. Picture before cleaning up the grinds and painting.... next step will be mounting and either stacking washers or cutting spacers to locate the pulley properly. Does anyone know of a press-on pulley made for the wider toyota belt? It'd be cool to run one and I bet it would slip less.

 

[Blue77FJ40]

Finally got to the truck after the other to-do list stuff this week, but started way too late and still have some fitment issues to work out.

My thought was that, since the truck is desmogged, I might move the saginaw power steering pump down to where the smog pump would have been. This would do two things- clean things up, and more importantly move the pump and hoses down and away from the headers. The return line is cracking where it gets cooked, and the fluid boils over when the system is used heavily.

I got one of Mark's brackets, which replicates the smog pump mount, and uses a similar pivot adjustment bracket that attaches to one of the water pump bolts. I liked the idea as it would be like a better version of the TPI system that repurposes the smog pump mount pictured here:

View attachment 3480899

It is a nice solution, but it looks like I will have to grind it to fit a standard saginaw pump. It is about 5mm short of the clearance required for the 'flange" on the tank. It's also going to be danger close to clearing the steering shaft and radiator support but figure that will work out. The steering shaft hits the rad support occasionally anyway.
View attachment 3480891

What I've currently got- not only places the hoses about 1" from the top of the headers, but also attaches to the block head bolts, intake manifold, and smog pump location all at once. Lot going on:

View attachment 3480898

On my '77 '40, I went with the following setup using the Dorry mount, that now is sold by Georg at Hybrid:

Pick a bushing, then a sheave (pulley), and then the belt. I bought from McMasters. The belt I bought from a local parts store, needed to buy a few sizes and returned the ones that didn't fit.

Bushing - make sure that your Saginaw pump is a 3/4" shaft

SH 3/4" BORE QD BUSHINGS
-----

Sheave/pulley: come in different sizes, pick your poison

Mfgrs # Bushing Contact Path in. Outside Diameter in. Order # Price Ea.
1B36SH SH 3.6 3.950 35436302 21.76
1B38SH SH 3.8 4.150 35436310 23.78
1B40SH SH 4.0 4.350 35436328 24.06
1B42SH SH 4.2 4.550 35436336 25.48
1B44SH SH 4.4 4.750 35436344 26.25
------

The belt I'm using is:

Gates TR22625 (replaces 973)
Truck & Bus Series
11/16" x [63-1/8" his particular length]
17mm x 1605mm (measure for yourself with a rope around pulleys)
Green Stripe II
Also known as 22 series belts

 

[matzell]

Maybe this?

P/S Pump PULLEY for Saginaw Pump for JTO PS – JT Outfitters

www.jtoutfitters.com